Respraying Tips

[Gullie]

Yeh, im probably going to get burnt for making this thread but oh well.

Im thinkin about respraying my keto from yellow to burnt orange, but am going to leave engine bay and interior (its a ke70, it aint goin in autosalon, i dont care.) I just wanna get rid of the yellow. And remove some rust beforehand.

I can borrow a good/large air compressor from a friend with the gun, so thats not an issue.

I need to know if this is possible; Sanding back all the yellow lightly with a fine grit paper (1200?)
Applying Wax & Grease Remover all over
Blasting any dust off with the air compressor
Start applying paint in thin coats
Apply clear coat

Obviously it wont come out amazing, but is this possible without having to sand back to bare metal and primering/sanding?
And still look half-respectable?

Or should i save my time/money and stay yellow

cheers all

[stefan]

stay yellow

easier than color change

will look wak when open bonnet and have yellow bay

[Gullie]

lol i pop my bonnet to show off my 4kc all the time
if i had a 4age it would be a different story

[stinger_007]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Yellow Keto. @ Dec 9 2007, 04:02 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=449196)</div>
Sanding back all the yellow lightly with a fine grit paper (1200?)
Start with something a little corser mabe 800, the 1200 (as long as the current paint is smooth...ish.)
Applying Wax & Grease Remover all over
Blasting any dust off with the air compressor
Paint on a primer!!!!!
sand again, blast off and wipe down
Start applying paint in coats
Apply clear coat - apply multiple coats for color 'depth'
Polish[/b]

See bold.

I did this to an old datto 200b coupe.

It came up well. Consider doing your door jams (stuff boot and eng bay).
Light sand, primer, sand, colour, clear. Polish with rest of car.

Your costs will only be paint/thinners, sand paper, cleaning products.

Your time is free.

[Gullie]

cheers mate
so primer IS a necessity..
thought it was only if painting from bare metal

any more tips would be appreciated! :)

[ke70dave]

hey mate

me and a mate have recently done a backyard spray job on the ke70

ill start from the begining as i dont know how much you know

there are 3 types of paints

enamel
acrylic
2pak

enamel = you spray it on and its "shine off the gun", its the easiest, no clear coat, but it wont last very long if left in the sun all day
acrylic = spray on the colour, and then spray on the clear coat, THEN you have to buff and polish it to make it shiny.
2-pak= not exactly sure, but i belive its similar to acrylic, but you have to mix the paint up yourself, with hardener etc. and the fumes are EXTREMELY toxic

i went for acrylic on my project, and was about 300$ for all paint/thinners/primmer

if you do metalic you have to use a clear coat on the acrylic.

first off you gota get all the dents out, bog bash whatever the hell you want to do.

next wet and dry sanding

start with 240, and do the whole car till its smooth as

then start again with 400, and do the whole car till its smooth as

then start with 800 and you guessed it, sand till its smooth as!

note: the paint will not cover up ANY blemishes, so if you see a dent and think "knowone will see that", it will be 100x easier to see with new paint!!

now you have to wash the car really well with. using some sort of car wash.

once your done with sanding and cleaning its wax and greese remover time. you need to make sure you get rid of all the wax/soap that the car polish puts on the surface.

this stuff is fun to play with, basically its an alcohol, so it evaporates really fast. you have to wipe it on the panel, and then wipe it of BEFORE it evaporates and dries. easiest way to do this is to use 2 rags. a "wet" rag and a "dry" rag. you are allowed to say "wax on" and "Wax off" while you are doin it :2thumbs:

ok now your almost ready to start painting.

mask up all your windows, wheels, whatever you dont want coloured. also spray the gaps between the panels with compressed air so you dont get any water being blown around while your trying to apply the paint.

ok once its all mased up try and paint it somewhere where you arent gonna get any crap blowing onto it, or wind blowing. a garage is the best, just use cheap plastic drop sheets to make sure no paint gets on the walls etc.

ok painting time, its too hard to explain how to paint it on with text, but you will get the hang of it. just make sure you have a GOOD gun, and adjust the air properly. if you have to much air then it will orange peal, and if you dont have enough it will be blotchy. best just to experiment on a spare panel or something.

you need to paint a proper primer on first, with the apropriate amount of thinners.

once the primer is on, you have to give it a DRY sand with 400 grit, to make it nice and smooth, there will be alot of blotches from here and there, and they will stand out heaps in the final product.

now you have to give it another wash, and another wax and greese remove.

now colour time, on my car i did six coats of colour. just worked my way around the car till i had done enough.

now you DONT have to sand between colour and clear coat. just spray it over the top

as i said before you only have to use a clear coat if you use metalic paint.

now you have to wait about 2 weeks before you can buff the clear coat, it will be dull untill then.

you need to sand the clear coat with 1500 and 2000, it takes freeking ages, but its worth it. (my rear quarter took me about 2hrs to sand just with 1500)

then its buffing time, i bought a random orbital buffer from supercheap (like 50$) and some cutting compound. and just go nuts.

then you can polish it if you want as well.

hope this post helps you.

painting isnt that hard, it just takes aaagess!!!

here are some pics as to what i did

after first day of sanding and bogging
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/4/8/4/3/155404.jpg

washing and wax and greese removering after applying primer
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/4/8/4/3/155663.jpg
ready for top coat
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/4/8/4/3/155662.jpg
shiny blue
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/4/8/4/3/155680.jpg
straight after painting done
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/4/8/4/3/155744.jpg
glittery
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/4/8/4/3/155745.jpg


now i havent buffed very much of my car yet, as i been busy

but as you can see in this pic, about half of what is shown is buffed...SHINYY!!!

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/4/8/4/3/160368.jpg

hope this gives you an idea of how to do it mate!!

if you got any more Q's let me know

[obey wan boenny]

good write up Dave. I'll be doing this soon as well and it helped freshen up my memory (y)

[orange32]

excellent write up, answered a few questions i would have probably asked myself.

One thing though, how is the finished quality of the paint job? As in, does it look like a home job, or as if it was done proffesionally?

Only reason why i ask is that i will be painting two of my cars in the coming months and i would really like a really good job without going to a panel beater/spray painter.

cheers
zac

[Nikkojoe]

For the record, 2pak is enamel based paint (therefore totally different to acrylic). 2pak never needs buffing, polishing, cutting back etc (if you do, you damage the paint). You cant fix errors as easily as acrylic as it hardens fast. How you spray and also the thickness of paint determines the end result (too thick and its a very rough finish, too thin and it requires a lot of coats to cover - dont be tempted to cover all at once, runs will occur).

You always have to use clear if spraying any form of metalic. You dont have to use primer if painting straight onto paint, primer is used to create a paintable layer on steel (etch primer used for other metals such aluminium, brass, etc). If you had to use primer, blending touch up jobs on panels would not work :P People think it will flake off, but this is usually caused from poor prep (and the exact same thing will happen if pimer is painted on a poor prepped surface).

Rules of thumb.

Bog sticks to metal, NOT paint
Primer Sticks to metal and bog
Spray putty sticks to primer (primer over spray putty before applying Colour)
Colour Paint stick to old colour paint (providing surface is prepped well)
Primer sticks to old colour paint

[Konakid]

fucking good write up dave, helped heaps, im prepping my car at the moment, much needed advice there!

[ke70dave]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Orange32 @ Dec 9 2007, 07:24 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=449324)</div>
One thing though, how is the finished quality of the paint job? As in, does it look like a home job, or as if it was done proffesionally?[/b]

hey man the actual paint quality is pretty damn good, it came up very nice.

me and a mate did it in exactly 1 week, so it was very rushed. there are still heaps of dents.

but its all the one colour, glittery and shiny!

so cant really complain for 300$

ALOT of time needs to be spent preparation. fixing dents takes freeking ages....bog sand bog sand bog sand. and then you spray it with some dodgy paint to see if the dent is gone, and then bog sand bog sand bog sand.

ohh one thing i forgot

is that you HAVE to make sure that you spray in a nice cool environment, and with less than 50% humidity. if you dont, the paint comes out all white ish. i had this happen on my bonnet as it was slightly in the sun, and heated up. ill have to respray that one day.

Nikkojoe - thanks for that mate, wasnt sure what the go was with 2-pak, thanks for clearing that up

[ke70dave]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (KonaKid @ Dec 9 2007, 08:39 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=449400)</div>
fucking good write up dave, helped heaps, im prepping my car at the moment, much needed advice there![/b]


haha thanks mate, glad to be of assistance

to be honest me and my mate (bahnugget off here) had pretty much no idea what we were doin, and just made it up as we went along

seemed to work though!

[Nikkojoe]

This should go into wiki me thinks :P

Also for polishing tips aswell you dont have to use a buffer, you can just do it manually. Invest in a tin of Repo Extra Cut and Polish (red tin), it is the shit to use for polishing after sanding with 2000paper (clear coat looks and feels like glass). 1 Tin can do 2 commodores, and it only costs less than $8 per tin :D

Here is an end result pic (2000paper+repo polish):
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/4/8/4/3/156892.jpg

[ke70dave]

dude that looks incredible!!! gota be happy with that!!!

and yer you have to sand no matter what, 1500 and 2000

the pic up there of my car, is after about 2hrs of sanding with 1500 and then a 30sec job with the buffer!

[superbmobile]

[quote]



http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/4/8/4/3/160368.jpg

^^that came up mad.
for arcylic you only have to use a clear on metalics. standard colours have a clear mixed with em. Also when i painted my car i used a 180 grit wet and dry to take the original cars paint off. but i suggest use a 180 grit dry paper with an orbital sander if ya have one it makes life hell easier. ive used both and found the dry 180 grit paper gives a great result with half as much work.

[Gullie]

damn! i wasnt expecting a response like that! :)
You just made my mind up for me, after all this xmas bull shit... its painting time!

And i agree.. this should be WIKI'ed

top stuff :2thumbs:

Oh and before i paint i want to convert to flat nose, so if anyone has a wrecked flat nose hit me up... i will buy!

[tricky_dan]

awesome write up dave! really helps with anyone spraying- sticky it on these forums?


and omg superbmobile.. sif quote such a long post...

[superbmobile]

^^^sorry i didnt relise at the time now fixed ;) .

[slide86]

http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=29134

lots to read, but all good info