BAD AXLE TRAMP!!!???

[RussianMafia000]

I've already made one thread about this but after solving it by putting back in my standard shocks I'm now at a point where I've put some Sierras in and am having the same problem again.

I made my lower trailing arms adjustable and moved my pinion angle dowards a bit but I'm still have this problem. It only happens when going straight and axlerating with the wheels trying to spin. When I pop the clutch going sideways it's fine?

The car is a KE70 with an SR making around 300hp which might be helping the problem? I'm using a Hilux rear end with a very tight LSD which acts pretty much like a locker..

Can anyone tell me if they've experienced the same problem and exactly what they did to correct it? I need to stiffen up the rear end for drift which is why I've gone with sierras.

Any help will be greatly apprecaited!!!

[dr1ft-pig]

mine does this also

the adjustable arms should have solved it.... tried adjusting them to try a few different angles????

i have stock trailing arms, stock placed mounts (kouki t series) chopped falcons and sierra shocks and my car is low as hell

i am only running what a slightly modded 20v puts out... 120hp ish atw and it tramps hard as


traction brackets/ 4 link should help

ill be making my own weld on traction brackets for my new diff, ill let you know how it goes

[RussianMafia000]

Yeh I've tried a few different trailing arm lengths but after having another search around on here, traction brackets might actually be what I need.
I'm thinking of just making my own but I'm not sure how big to make them? I never really understood what they were for but now I think I get it. They're to make the trailing arm on more of an angle right? Instad of being "flat" which should reduce the diff trying to roll forward as much.. Is this right?

[dr1ft-pig]

exactly

moves rear of trailing arm down so it can't go upwards of horizontal, then diff can't jump causing tramp

this is why I'm not bothering with 4 link, just making traction brackets with say 3 or so holes for different positions then theres only 3 settings, if done right your diff will not be out of alighnment therfore trial and error 2 times will acheive good result on 3rd try or 1st if your lucky enough to pick that hole first

just need to weld trailing arm mount down further to acheive good trailing arm angle

as its all about trailing arm angle that causes tramp, traction brackets arent used to correct pinion angle (even though they do to a certain extent) they are used for as i said before correcting the angle of the arm

hope that helped

[steroidchickens]

how are your bushes.

i have never had this problem. mind you my bushes have always been good.

[RussianMafia000]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (dr1ft-pig @ Mar 10 2008, 06:45 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=499854)</div>
exactly

moves rear of trailing arm down so it can't go upwards of horizontal, then diff can't jump causing tramp

this is why I'm not bothering with 4 link, just making traction brackets with say 3 or so holes for different positions then theres only 3 settings, if done right your diff will not be out of alighnment therfore trial and error 2 times will acheive good result on 3rd try or 1st if your lucky enough to pick that hole first

just need to weld trailing arm mount down further to acheive good trailing arm angle

as its all about trailing arm angle that causes tramp, traction brackets arent used to correct pinion angle (even though they do to a certain extent) they are used for as i said before correcting the angle of the arm

hope that helped[/b]


Thanks mate for your help, I might give it a go tommoow if I can find some steel and see how I go. Should I make the 3 different holes all in line or in an arch?
I have been over my bushes and seem to be alright, still the standard bushes but aren't cracked/collapsed from what I can see. I've been told not to run nolathane/urethane as they are too stiff and don't give enough play resulting in shaking the car to peices.
Is this true?

[Delazy]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (-=GOODY=- @ Mar 10 2008, 08:22 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=499874)</div>
I've been told not to run nolathane/urethane as they are too stiff and don't give enough play resulting in shaking the car to peices.
Is this true?[/b]

lol...if u think thats bad...run rose jointed stuff :lol:

[dr1ft-pig]

here is an example of how i think the holes should be made in the bracket

hope this helps

[attachment=23533:traction...et_paint.JPG]

[xsoarerx]

Yeh thats pretty much what I was thinking, but then I had a look at the T3 ons and they have the holes aligned vertical not horizontal, what do you reckon?
http://www.technotoytuning.com/productdetail.php?p=490

[RussianMafia000]

I'm also going to be modifying my lower shockie mounts so it allows me to have the car sitting higher but still using the sierra shocks. Has anyone had any experience with this? Atm there is no play for the car to bounce upwards and I can see it wrecking the shocks pretty quickly

[dr1ft-pig]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (-=GOODY=- @ Mar 10 2008, 08:51 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=499892)</div>
I'm also going to be modifying my lower shockie mounts so it allows me to have the car sitting higher but still using the sierra shocks. Has anyone had any experience with this? Atm there is no play for the car to bounce upwards and I can see it wrecking the shocks pretty quickly[/b]


u need to either go lower or use hk monaro or VB wagon shocks

as for the t3 brackets that changes the trailing arm angle in so many ways

the way i explained gives the same angle now i think about it more but the other 2 holes will allow for pinion angle to be changed

so yeah i guess making the holes vertical would be good, the t3 ones have been proven to work so id say go with the method i pictured but just make the holes vertical instead :D

[RussianMafia000]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (dr1ft-pig @ Mar 10 2008, 07:58 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=499897)</div>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (-=GOODY=- @ Mar 10 2008, 08:51 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=499892)
I'm also going to be modifying my lower shockie mounts so it allows me to have the car sitting higher but still using the sierra shocks. Has anyone had any experience with this? Atm there is no play for the car to bounce upwards and I can see it wrecking the shocks pretty quickly[/b]


u need to either go lower or use hk monaro or VB wagon shocks

as for the t3 brackets that changes the trailing arm angle in so many ways

the way i explained gives the same angle now i think about it more but the other 2 holes will allow for pinion angle to be changed

so yeah i guess making the holes vertical would be good, the t3 ones have been proven to work so id say go with the method i pictured but just make the holes vertical instead :D
[/b][/quote]


I have the Sierra's in there now but I don't like having the car sitting that low so instead of getting new shocks I'm going to just modify the strut mount to suit and see how that goes :) I've tried VL live axle wagon shocks and then sold them after they gave me the sme problem I'm having now lol. Was hoping the sierras would fix it but doesn't look like it..
Will see how I go tommorow :)

Cheers, Matt.

[dr1ft-pig]

i would go back to the others instead modifying would be last resort

[RussianMafia000]

I would of but they are now sold and I've just bought these.. It's not overly hard to modify, just a new plate needs to be welded on after the old one grinded off. I've got a hoist here and pretty much every other tool I need so I should be right :)

[slydar]

didnt read whole thread. anyway.

adjustable arms are not the cure for this problem.

traction brackets are.

the problem is on a lowered car, the lower arms point up. this means as the suspension compresses under acceleration, the diff is pulled forward from the bottom, rotating it backwards against itself as it tries to turn forward with the accelaration, this is where the "tramp" comes from.. the diff bounces as it "rolls" backwards and forward as it fights itself.

you need traction brackets.. not having them is kinda like not having rcas in the front of your car.

[Robo86]

i used to have bad tramp when i had stock rear suspension.

since then i have new trd blues and 7kg rear springs and its fine, dry and wet

[RussianMafia000]

By the way everyones talking I definatly need some traction brackets, whether they are home made or a brand name item I should have figured out by tommorow, all depends what I have laying around and how cheap I can find a pair if I buy them.
In the process of doing my front end so RCA's are in the plans aswell :)

[japlish]

it may actually be the lsd, i had a similar problem with my setup and i changed to a locker centre and the problem almost disapeered........

[RussianMafia000]

How would the LSD be affecting it? It only happens when I put in some shocks that are stiffer than standard, with the normal shocks and falcon springs there is no tramp at all?
I'm looking at buying some traction brackets atm instead of making them if I can find them cheap enough.

[japlish]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (-=GOODY=- @ Mar 11 2008, 10:37 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=500138)</div>
How would the LSD be affecting it? It only happens when I put in some shocks that are stiffer than standard, with the normal shocks and falcon springs there is no tramp at all?
I'm looking at buying some traction brackets atm instead of making them if I can find them cheap enough.[/b]
i don't know.........but it fixed it?