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View Full Version : engine bay surface rough after using self primming rust converter



japlish
11th March 2008, 07:39 PM
hay guys

I rust converted my engine bay today. It says to remove after 10mins with a damp rag. I was reluctant to do this though because i don't like the idea of putting H2O on bare metal. So I used petrol to remove the rust eater.
For some reason removing the rust eater with petrol left a copper oxide residue.

So now I have to start again. what should I use in stead of petrol to remove the rust eater.

stefan
11th March 2008, 08:43 PM
just need a neutral chemical that wont affect paint or rust up bare metal

distilled water then quick coat of wd40

steroidchickens
11th March 2008, 09:26 PM
i don't like using that rust converter, i get the self priming one that you leave it.

you are supposed to use water with the one you speak of.

japlish
11th March 2008, 10:00 PM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (steroidchickens @ Mar 11 2008, 08:56 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=500460)</div>
i don't like using that rust converter, i get the self priming one that you leave it.

you are supposed to use water with the one you speak of.[/b]

I don't know about the self primming rust eater because i worry about how it will effect the 2pak etch primmer from bonding to the bare metal.

Nikkojoe
11th March 2008, 10:35 PM
Just wipe it off with damp rag, its fine. If you are really scared about it, get some sand paper after it has dried and go over it.

Also no need for etch primer, only to be used when painting metals other than steel (but you can use it if you wish). The self priming rust converter is fine to paint over as long as its all turned black, its fine (just probably get some wax and grease remover to clean up the surface though).

japlish
12th March 2008, 12:51 AM
Its recommended on the primmer filler label to use etch primer first on bare metal.

I'll use water next time then a heat gun and air compressor to make sure all the surfaces are dry.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Nikkojoe @ Mar 11 2008, 10:05 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=500528)</div>
Just wipe it off with damp rag, its fine. If you are really scared about it, get some sand paper after it has dried and go over it.

Also no need for etch primer, only to be used when painting metals other than steel (but you can use it if you wish). The self priming rust converter is fine to paint over as long as its all turned black, its fine (just probably get some wax and grease remover to clean up the surface though).[/b]

Nikkojoe
12th March 2008, 01:39 AM
Yeah, ment to say bare metal other than steel (what it say on all my etch primer paints). Still works fine :)

Also, don't blow air over the water drops on bare as this will make it rust faster in front of your eyes. Just get a cloth, wipe the excess water off and dry it best you can, then go over with heat gun.

johl
12th March 2008, 02:00 AM
yeh i got all this black shit over my car too... can't get it off... gay...

japlish
13th March 2008, 01:44 AM
I used locktight rustconverter. Seems to have worked well. Has left the surface rough though. Do you guys reckon it will be fine to paint over or do I really have to sand it. I'm thinking if I sand it will start to expose bare metal again which will rust. So I want to avoid sanding if I can.

Nikkojoe
13th March 2008, 01:49 AM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (johnO2 @ Mar 12 2008, 11:44 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=501325)</div>
I used locktight rustconverter. Seems to have worked well. Has left the surface rough though. Do you guys reckon it will be fine to paint over or do I really have to sand it. I'm thinking if I sand it will start to expose bare metal again which will rust. So I want to avoid sanding if I can.[/b]

Dry sand it. Its not as reactive to the air as sodium :) You could even wet sand it, wipe the water right away and it wont rust (unless you actually leave it for a day or two) if you paint straight away.