Paint?

[Marco]

Hey guys does anybody know for a fact what kind of paint is on my sprinter. a 1983 june spec 1 lol I'm guessing acrylic?

cheers
Marco.

[skin]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (marco @ Apr 30 2008, 09:33 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=524927)</div>
Hey guys does anybody know for a fact what kind of paint is on my sprinter. a 1983 june spec 1 lol I'm guessing acrylic?

cheers
Marco.[/b]


ah 2pac


its all 2pac

[Nikkojoe]

not 2pac, its another enamel based paint though (forget the name).

2pac should never need polishing if sprayed correctly and should never fade (only fades and wears out cause people use harsh polishes). Most cars in the early/mid 90's were using 2pac paint.

[riojin]

its baked on acrylic

[superbmobile]

its defiantly baked enamel. As nikkojoe said 2pak was used in the 90's and generally not in the eighty's. And as far as i know toyota never used acrylic in production.

[Marco]

so baked enamel or baked acrylic? i am going to start sanding this week and hope to be painting by next weekend really just going to rought up the paint won't bother going back to bare metal. anybody got a suggestion on what grit paper i use?

[Nikkojoe]

Its baked enamel

start with 400grit first then work up to 600-800 for a decent finish. Allow decent settle time between different coats.

[Marco]

^ Beautiful tahnks mate

[chaRwie]

sorry to invade....but what is the colour code of the white on sprinters??

[Jonny Rochester]

041

[riceburner]

toyota super white 2 and super white 3

I used super white 4 when i redid mine, looks slightly cleaner then the older colours.

2pak does need polishing, 2pak will fade, but its 100% more durable then baked acrylic or enamel.

And you don't polish 2pak with off the shelp crap like mothers etc etc, it needs caruba wax (the more caruba wax in the bottle the better), rubbed in by hand and rubbed off with very soft terry towels for best results.

[Nikkojoe]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (FKN16v @ May 3 2008, 06:34 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=526109)</div>
toyota super white 2 and super white 3

I used super white 4 when i redid mine, looks slightly cleaner then the older colours.

2pak does need polishing, 2pak will fade, but its 100% more durable then baked acrylic or enamel.

And you don't polish 2pak with off the shelp crap like mothers etc etc, it needs caruba wax (the more caruba wax in the bottle the better), rubbed in by hand and rubbed off with very soft terry towels for best results.[/b]


2Pak does NOT need polishing off the gun, but if you are wanting the best finish you sand back with the finest grit paper you can find then polish. If you are skilled enough with the gun, you could avoid this step.

I should also note that i meant 2Pak paint with gloss base colours do tend to still fade (ie gloss white, yellows, reds, blues etc) but its not really a fade. Its more or less the surface oxidising leaving a power residue. The same goes for metalics with a clear coat, but not at the same level and it aint noticeable.

Always wax and the paint will last for years and years

[choom78]

I used highest grit sandpaper wet-sand after I painted to make the surface truly flat. Then I use cutting-polish to bring the dull surface back to shiny condition.

If you go to an auto paint specialist you will find cutting compounts (polish) of various grades. e.g. coarse, medium, fine and ultrafine. (autoglm is a brand that comes to mind).

I haven't washed my car in a year and its still shiny. - 2pak.

[Nikkojoe]

ah yes cutting compounds :D

Careful with the buffer though :)

[riceburner]

I never said off the gun Nikko, 2pak needs to cure properly, mine took nearly 2weeks to fully set, i let it sit for 2motnhs thou. I had had heaps of orange peel.

Guess thats what a $100 spray painter does to you.

Buffed it smooth, caruba wax lasted nearly 2yrs
need doing again thou.

Yes as you say, base colours oxidise, especially i its left out in the weather, a garaged 2pak finish would hardly ever need any work done to it.

2pak for the win.

Fukin heaps of prep work to get it right thou. My arms have never been so sore.

[Nikkojoe]

Yeah trick is to use lots of thinners, do lots of coats and keep your flow even and straight. If you do lots of prep before hand, and leave every stage to settle for a month at least before sanding and painting the next stage, layers of transition rings will dissapear and the final coat will settle onto a smooth surface :)