Unusual cooling system mod for a 20V

[rthy]

This would be the third thread on 20v cooling now and I think my latest idea is the most odd yet. I want to run it by people to see what they think.

Bit of an update:

I wrote an article a long while back on converting a 20v to rwd (see link in signiture) which changes the usual cooling path from so:

cold radiator water - intake side of head - block - other side of head and out

to the 16v design which is:

cold water in - block - other side of head - intake side of head and out

now the disadvantage of this is that the large port desidned to cool the intake air with fresh cold water now warms it theoreticly losing power.


Now my usual idea:

instead of running an external thermostat and external water pipes to emulate the stock setup I am thinking of tottaly bypassing the channel above the intakes from the main cooling system. Then having a tottaly independant cooling system that uses heater pipe sized hoes, an electric pump and a small radiator in the front to cool that section down by itself. In terms of packaging this would make things much simpler than external pipes. The intake side of the head would be reduced from having a 90 degree tempreture to around 30 to 40 depending on the day. How much of a difference it makes having air pass over a 200mm section on head that is 50 degrees cooler I don't know and want to know.

As for the issue of thermal stress I thought about the warpage isues and I came to this conclusion:

in a stock setup the water coming back from the radiator can be pretty cool if its a cold day, and if the engine is being driven hard then it will be putting a decent amount of hot water flow into the radiator. Therefore the temp difference stock would be pretty big I think and hence I shoudlnt have any thermal stress beyond what its designed for.

[ke kid]

a little off topic here, but I read your 20V cooling guide sam, and you ground down the little blades on the water pump? Well it turns out that brand new 20V water pumps from endurotec already have shorter blades for some reason and it bolts up to a 4ac backing plate no probs! :o :D

anyway, back on topic, wouldn't it be a little crowded in the engine bay with all the extra water lines and water pump etc. and wouldn't also the small amount of power you might have gained by having cooler water around the intake ports be counteracted by the extra power the altenator had to make to drive the water pump also not to mention having more heated parts in the engine bay thereby increasing engine bay temps therefore losing hp and lastly the extra weight of this whole seperate cooling system wouldn't exactly work to your advantage.

my 2c

[rthy]

I also found that the 16v pump that is available off the shelf also fits on, this is the powermax brand that can be ordered through any repco/supercheap/autobahn/bursons. I plan on rewriting my cooling guide when I can as I have quite a bit of extra info to add.


As for this idea, I would need one extra main coolant line that would go from the front under the throttles to the rear plate and then two small heater sized lines for the seperate cooling system idea. The main line would be pretty well hidden under the throttles and I would of used two metal lines that would of closely hugged the block for the second sytem, so I don't think it would of looked cluttered.

The water pump I would use would of only been a low flowing pump so it would have very little extra alternator load. However having the extra weight and clutter certainly would be a factor. With this idea out there though I don't think people can now use the excuse that they are using the old style external cooling pipes because of the cooler intake temps.

Sorry if I am a bit unclear as I am quite tired right now.

[mech`s blue]

i don't quite understand the setup but the picture i get in my head is it would be like running an extra heater core and lines but in the engine bay and ran by an electric pump.

[rthy]

imagine a seperate cooling system just for that channel in the head that goes over the intake ports, so hot water no longer passes over it.

[mech`s blue]

ok yeah i understand now

seems like a lot of effort tho. does running the 20v like the way you have done previously really run much hotter than the standard setup tho?

[rthy]

well that channel once converted to the design as shown in my cooling guide gets the water as its the hottest compared to when it was the coolest water from the radiator before.

What difference does that make it the real world? thats the question nobody has an answer for

[Anthony]

I think you'll find the coolant channel past the intake ports isn't to cool the intake charge (if your intake air needs cooling down to 70 degrees you have a problem!) but is actually anti-icing for the throttles.

[rthy]

Anthony I never would of thought of that, so for the greater part in the part of the world we live in here its best to just run a cooling system design as we have so far?

well this will be quite easy

[af300e]

Sam I'm interested in how you researched or estimated your temps (90 deg dropping to 40 deg).

[rthy]

research? not this time! I figured that the water coming out of the engine would be the therstats ragulated tempreture, which for me is 91 degrees, and the water coming back from the radiator would have to be above ambient so I took a wild guess and estimated 40. Very unprofessional I know but I was looking itno buying a thermocouple for my multimeter to find out for sure.

[af300e]

I have one for my multimeter.........
I might come round sometime with shelldrake??

[rthy]

yeah I would be up for that