Boosting troubles

[AE71 Rolla]

As the title says i'm having troubles with my bigport 4AGTE. I took it to a workshop here in Perth (KYP) as i had troubles with other things. The stock AW11 GZE ecu was changed for another as it shorted out, but he also told that my turbo needs to be rebuilt or i should buy a new one.

This is where the problem lies. Before i took it to KYP; when it's just idling away it has a tiny bit of white smoke coming out the exhaust, but when i increased the rpm to start spooling the turbo up, the white smoke just comes pouring out, the engine starts to choke and sputter and then just dies. After taking KYP's advice i rebuilt the turbo but it does the exact same thing.

The only thing i can think of is when i rebuilt the engine from ground up and this is when it all started. I followed all the correct procedures for building the engine with no problems on the way so i can only think it lies within my engine.

Any ideas or input would be appreciated as i'm sure someone on here may have encountered similair problems. Cheers

[ke kid]

maybe theres too much oil being fed into the turbo?

[AE71 Rolla]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (ke kid @ Jul 16 2008, 05:29 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=562453)</div>
maybe theres too much oil being fed into the turbo?[/b]

I had the standard size oil feed line running on it before i rebuilt the turbo and engine and never had any issues with it. I have a massive oil return line on it so there should be no issues with oil 'backing up'.

[Gunner]

Does it make boost? are you sure you don't have oil trapped in a muffler or the cat?

[AE71 Rolla]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (gunbz-r @ Jul 16 2008, 10:07 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=562636)</div>
Does it make boost? are you sure you don't have oil trapped in a muffler or the cat?[/b]
No it doesn't make boost at all. As soon as the boost gauge goes from 20 vacuum and then reaches 0 is when it die's. I have no cat and the hotdog muffler was clear when i fabricated my exhaust.

[AE71 Rolla]

I may have found part of the problem today. For some reason i thought that i had welded shut the fitting for my BOV but upon checking i found that it wasn't so i plugged it up. Now it makes slight boost but still coughs and sputters and still has alot of white smoke pouring out; and now idles around 2500rpm.

What's next to check on guys???

[dustyae86]

I would be saying stuff that has been said about too much oil

[Gunner]

you need a restrictor for the oil feed line, you may have popped the seals already.

Also, did you get the old parts of the turbo back? Are you sure the work has been done.

[AE71 Rolla]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (gunbz-r @ Jul 17 2008, 04:52 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=562725)</div>
you need a restrictor for the oil feed line, you may have popped the seals already.

Also, did you get the old parts of the turbo back? Are you sure the work has been done.[/b]

It is already restricted by the T-piece that i am using. I have the parts as i rebuilt it my self. You can question my rebuilding skills but for part of my apprenticeship i have had to rebuild turbos and they have all worked with no problems.

My oil pressure gauge reads 80psi on idle which is fairly high

[Gunner]

Nah I'm not questioning your work dude, just ruling out possibilties.

80 psi is very high, I take it that, it is warm and at that pressure? Have you modified the oil pump?

The pressure would be extremely high while revving, that could be the issue.

[AE71 Rolla]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (gunbz-r @ Jul 17 2008, 05:05 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=562738)</div>
Nah I'm not questioning your work dude, just ruling out possibilties.

80 psi is very high, I take it that, it is warm and at that pressure? Have you modified the oil pump?

The pressure would be extremely high while revving, that could be the issue.[/b]

Yes that pressure is whilst at operating temp. The only thing i did with the oil pump was clean it up but make sure i marked the gears and put them back how i found it. Maybe the relief spring is not opening for some reason.

I've seen it hit 100 on full boost before i rebuilt it!!!

[Gunner]

I'd be rebuilding it if i were you, as this is likely your problem, its also likely the turbo may need to be done again.


100 psi flat stick should be ok, not an expert though, but the big power suby's i have done sit at 110 at 7800rpm from memory, but i am unsure if the humble 4a could handle that much

[resol]

forgive me for not reading thoroughly through this thread (i browsed through). but isnt white smoke in usually atributed to coolant (water) being burnt. where black smoke would be from oil and blue smoke fuel (or seals can't recall).

so if its white purhaps its either BHG, or coolant problems in the turbo (not sure if ur turbo is water/oil cooled). done a compression test?

[AE71 Rolla]

BHG???
Haven't done a compression test yet

[Gunner]

White smoke, oil burning at a low temp

Blue smoke, oil burning at a high temp

Black smoke, too rich

steam, blown headgasket, cracked head, cracked bore

[AE71 Rolla]

It's definately oil because when i pulled my dump pipe off it was coated in thick oil

[Gunner]

I'd put my money on, the fact the oil pressure is too high and its popped the turbo again.

but hey i could be wrong, i have been wrong before

[AE71 Rolla]

So you're suggesting to check the oil pump out then?

[driftke70]

using the right map sensor that can sense boost?

turbo seals wouldn't be that sensitive,

just try and trace the oil source, if its making its way to the cooler, or if its inside the exhaust manifold where it leaves the block. check to see if your oil in your engine is being burnt by slipping past rings. it wont make boost if its forcing it past the rings, building up oil pressure in your sump, and forcing it to places it shouldn't go, ie your turbo seals.

[biggo]

4age map sensors wont read over 0psi

but as you have an AFM ( i think you do) that part shouldnt be a problem.

But, all turbos ive seen spit a lil oil into the intake, not the dump pipe. I always thought 80psi oil pressure would be too much for a turbo?

[AE71 Rolla]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (driftke70 @ Jul 17 2008, 11:06 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=562904)</div>
using the right map sensor that can sense boost?

turbo seals wouldn't be that sensitive,

just try and trace the oil source, if its making its way to the cooler, or if its inside the exhaust manifold where it leaves the block. check to see if your oil in your engine is being burnt by slipping past rings. it wont make boost if its forcing it past the rings, building up oil pressure in your sump, and forcing it to places it shouldn't go, ie your turbo seals.[/b]
I'll check that but the engine has only 200km's on it and the ring's were placed in the correct position's. It made slight boost after i gave it a fair squirt.


<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (biggo @ Jul 18 2008, 09:09 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=562985)</div>
4age map sensors wont read over 0psi

but as you have an AFM ( i think you do) that part shouldnt be a problem.

But, all turbos ive seen spit a lil oil into the intake, not the dump pipe. I always thought 80psi oil pressure would be too much for a turbo?[/b]
Yeah there is alway's been a little bit of oil on the intake side

[Gunner]

my suggestion,
do a comp test,
do a leakage test
check for oil in the manifolds
you will get an answer from doing those things.

Driftke, could be right, could be pushin past the rings, and pressurising the crankcase, causing alot of blowby

[AE71 Rolla]

alright, i'll compression test it today if the rain stop's and post the result's and also pull the manifold off.

[AE71 Rolla]

Turbo is fine as there is no oil leaking in the inlet. Going to check the compression now

[reecegze]

I had the same problem with the turbo sometimes blowing white smoke everywhere... It goes away for me after awhile so it doesnt bother me... I know its the oil burning off inside the turbo after turning it off to quick. My oil pressure runs about 60psi when its fulling warmed up on idle, and i think i am running the same setup as you to just for refference.

[AE71 Rolla]

I may have found more parts of the puzzle:

One on the clamp's after the intercooler was fucked so it wasn't tight and allowed the air to leak whilst under pressure.
As i was doing the compression i found that plugs 1,2 and 3 were in only about half way and finger tight(KYP changed them)
Also there isn't enough oil now to try and test drive it so it will to be done tomorrow.

It made boost and only blew a little bit of black and white smoke before i had to shut it off because of low oil pressure. Hopefully i can see if the problem has been rectified tomorrow

[AE71 Rolla]

I'm pretty sure my IC piping is playing a crucial role in my problem with white smoke and shit boost,sputtering etc. Found that the 3 bolts on the outlet of the turbo were loose and not sealing. Also the choice of silicone hose and clamps needs to be changed as they are coming undone.
I tightened it all up and it ran fine with no white smoke blowing out at operating temp.
Took it for a drive and then the white smoke started again when it came on boost so i'm thinking the IC piping is not coping under pressure

[Gunner]

hey dude, thats tops, clean out your front mount, sounds like a bit of blow by has got caught in there and is gettin pushed through into the motor

[AE71 Rolla]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (gunbz-r @ Jul 19 2008, 05:58 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=563594)</div>
hey dude, thats tops, clean out your front mount, sounds like a bit of blow by has got caught in there and is gettin pushed through into the motor[/b]
Well when my turbo popped i found soo much oil in the piping before the cooler so god knows how much is actually sitting in there. What's the best way to clean it? My oil pressure has also dropped to about 60-70psi on idle but it needs to have the timing done again.

[orange32]

clean your piping and cooler with a 50/50 mix of kero and metho. Pour it in and block the ends off and shake the shit out of it, and drain it out. Keep doing it untill the solution comes out clean. Your piping should only take 1 or two times but cooler may take a few depending on amount of blowby.

[AE71 Rolla]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^
Alright thanks dude.

[AE71 Rolla]

Cleaned the cooler out today, changed couplings and clamps...................Still got the same problem. I put a video up on youtube so you can see how bad it is as it might make the problem more obvious. Sounds like a WRX as well so that's another problem that's gotta be fixed but i'm pretty sure they're related.

LINK----------http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bPJk5xQQvx8

[Gunner]

cool, so is it a 2l or 2.5, i could get you a mean 2.6 lol.

whats that rattily noise near the end, the metalic sound?

Have you done a comp test yet?

It sounds like a rexy cause the plugs are rooted, or the timing is way outa wack, but you haven't touched that I'm guessin.

need to do a comp test, i think you have some issues, but i don't get it exactly yet, as if it was bad enough to be blowin that much smoke it should be doin it at idle.

Almost forgot does it make boost, and if so how?

[AE71 Rolla]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (gunbz-r @ Jul 21 2008, 08:10 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=564621)</div>
cool, so is it a 2l or 2.5, i could get you a mean 2.6 lol.

whats that rattily noise near the end, the metalic sound?

Have you done a comp test yet?

It sounds like a rexy cause the plugs are rooted, or the timing is way outa wack, but you haven't touched that I'm guessin.

need to do a comp test, i think you have some issues, but i don't get it exactly yet, as if it was bad enough to be blowin that much smoke it should be doin it at idle.

Almost forgot does it make boost, and if so how?[/b]

Rattly noise has been there from day one. Ebay manifold has a leak i think.

Tried a comp test using a shitty gauge but kept getting different readings so i'm gonna have to invest in one.

Timing is out and plugs are fucking dirty as hell

I'll have to get another video of it boosting so you can hear it and see the boost gauge coz it's too hard to explain. It does make boost though but you just gotta keep your foot planted, listen to it cough it's guts up and then the guage will wriggle it's way up to about 8psi by the time it's reached 6000rpm!

[Gunner]

Tricky tricky lol. don't drive it no more. its not healthy your doin more harm then good.

Try and get a good comp gauge on it, if there is oil in the chamber, which there is by the sounds of it, and the rings are cracked or worn it may throw the reading out (wet vs dry comp test) but honestly by the sounds of it you need to pull it down and have a look and save what you can.

[AE71 Rolla]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (gunbz-r @ Jul 21 2008, 08:51 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=564655)</div>
Tricky tricky lol. don't drive it no more. its not healthy your doin more harm then good.

Try and get a good comp gauge on it, if there is oil in the chamber, which there is by the sounds of it, and the rings are cracked or worn it may throw the reading out (wet vs dry comp test) but honestly by the sounds of it you need to pull it down and have a look and save what you can.[/b]

Stripping it down is my last resort right now coz of time and money factor as well as motivation. I'm hoping the internals aren't fucked as there goes $900 down the drain

[driftke70]

well don't start it again until you have

timing 100%
new plugs 100%, as it picks up boost it is probably blowing out the spark, happens more than you would think, close your electrode gap.
your leads are good and healthy
get rid of that leak in the exhaust mani its not helping
diagnose if its using oil
but most importantly timing timing timing.

you could also have your leads the wrong way round by the sounds of the wrx thing.

[ke70dave]

damn driftke70 beat me to it, but i think mine is still relevant...

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (AE71 Rolla @ Jul 21 2008, 10:22 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=564628)</div>
Timing is out and plugs are fucking dirty as hell[/b]

i would stop everything and fix this first

anything to with boosted engines relies HEAVILY on a clean spark, any crappyness about them, and they just wont hold up..

start at the basics and work up, you said you had it going properly at some stage? so it can't be anything that serious.

after fixing your spark and timing, move onto compression, get a decent guage, and do a few tests and post up the results.

there i'snt really much point trying to diagnose problems when you know that things are not up to scratch, especially important things like spark plugs!

my mates RB20 was doin same thing as yours, wouldn't boost, wouldn't rev past 4000, we even tried another set of plugs that we thought were good, and same results, 100$ of iridiums spark plugs and it hasn't looked back since!!!

[AE71 Rolla]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (ke70dave @ Jul 22 2008, 10:54 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=564848)</div>
damn driftke70 beat me to it, but i think mine is still relevant...



i would stop everything and fix this first

anything to with boosted engines relies HEAVILY on a clean spark, any crappyness about them, and they just wont hold up..

start at the basics and work up, you said you had it going properly at some stage? so it can't be anything that serious.

after fixing your spark and timing, move onto compression, get a decent guage, and do a few tests and post up the results.

there i'snt really much point trying to diagnose problems when you know that things are not up to scratch, especially important things like spark plugs!

my mates RB20 was doin same thing as yours, wouldn't boost, wouldn't rev past 4000, we even tried another set of plugs that we thought were good, and same results, 100$ of iridiums spark plugs and it hasn't looked back since!!![/b]
I had iridium plugs($25 each) in it before then kyp changed then for some shitty ngk one's (like the 4 pack for $20). I'll clean the one's in it atm and close the gap and do the timing today.

[driftke70]

looking at that vid it pretty much seems your oil return line isnt flowing enough.

[gze-style]

I'd be fixing that miss first and going from there.
I know my sr20 was running like that when my afm shat itself. Maybe a MAP problem. I'd be checking everything IMO

[AE71 Rolla]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (gze-style @ Jul 23 2008, 03:24 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=565507)</div>
I'd be fixing that miss first and going from there.
I know my sr20 was running like that when my afm shat itself. Maybe a MAP problem. I'd be checking everything IMO[/b]
Pretty sure it's the leads, plug's and timing all rolled into one which is causing a snowball effect. Leads are 20yrs old :whistling: ,plugs are cheap and timing is out .
Number one is the only cylinder with oil in it coz i could see it when i pulled all the plugs out and peeked inside.

[AE71 Rolla]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (driftke70 @ Jul 22 2008, 10:03 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=565229)</div>
looking at that vid it pretty much seems your oil return line isnt flowing enough.[/b]
It's a huge oil return line and it drains right near the top of the sump

[AE71 Rolla]

So i changed my plugs for some iridium ones and bought new leads. It seems they were causing my WRX sounding problem haha. Now i did the timing to 10deg BTDC but am i supposed to keep T and E bridged coz when i take it out the timing goes to 15deg BTDC.

Also it doesn't sputter or choke anymore but it is struggling to make boost (to do with timing maybe) and still pours out smoke so i have to compression test it now.

[AE71 Rolla]

Compression tested it today and got 150psi across all four cylinders so now my attention turns to my turbo. Gonna whip it off on the weekend if the rain stops and suss out what seal is fucked.

[Tyrie]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (AE71 Rolla @ Aug 1 2008, 06:03 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=569907)</div>
Compression tested it today and got 150psi across all four cylinders so now my attention turns to my turbo. Gonna whip it off on the weekend if the rain stops and suss out what seal is fucked.[/b]

hey dude, I had heaps of oil burning problems when i first turbo'd my 4ag, enged up fixing it by fitting a catch can and 2 matching rocker covers so it now has double the breathers. It was pressurising the sump and blowing oil past the turbo seals. Take your oil filler cap off while its running and see how much air comes out.

[AE71 Rolla]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Tyrie @ Aug 1 2008, 04:15 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=569911)</div>
hey dude, I had heaps of oil burning problems when i first turbo'd my 4ag, enged up fixing it by fitting a catch can and 2 matching rocker covers so it now has double the breathers. It was pressurising the sump and blowing oil past the turbo seals. Take your oil filler cap off while its running and see how much air comes out.[/b]

I have an oil catch can fitted with only one inlet and outlet so i've only got the one rocker cover with the breather on it. That may also explain the high oil pressure reading on idle.

I took my cap off two days ago while running it and coped oil in the face. it's got some serious pressure behind it and the air is just pumping out.

[Tyrie]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (AE71 Rolla @ Aug 1 2008, 06:23 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=569917)</div>
I have an oil catch can fitted with only one inlet and outlet so i've only got the one rocker cover with the breather on it. That may also explain the high oil pressure reading on idle.

I took my cap off two days ago while running it and coped oil in the face. it's got some serious pressure behind it and the air is just pumping out.[/b]

sounds like mine was. If you can, fit another cover with a breather or drill a hole in the one you've got. I think the other GTE I bought had the same issue as it came with a big breater welded into the other cover.

Maybe even run it without the filler cap for a while if you can and see if it stops smoking.

[egg_83]

what weight oil are you running? if its too thick it will have too much pressure in the turbo and will force itself through the seals. producing white smoke.

[AE71 Rolla]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Tyrie @ Aug 1 2008, 05:04 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=569935)</div>
sounds like mine was. If you can, fit another cover with a breather or drill a hole in the one you've got. I think the other GTE I bought had the same issue as it came with a big breater welded into the other cover.

Maybe even run it without the filler cap for a while if you can and see if it stops smoking.[/b]

Yeah i might drill a larger hole in the spare cam cover i've got and run a larger line, but i'll run it with the cap off first to see if this helps.


<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (egg_83 @ Aug 1 2008, 06:07 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=569955)</div>
what weight oil are you running? if its too thick it will have too much pressure in the turbo and will force itself through the seals. producing white smoke.[/b]

I've got Penrite running in oil in it coz it's still a fresh motor

[AE71 Rolla]

Turbo seals have popped so i'll i'm just gonna send it away to have it fixed and maybe high flow it. Thanks for all your helps guys

[Gunner]

:2thumbs:

[reecegze]

didnt you just rebuild the tubo ?? :S no offence but did you do it properly

[AE71 Rolla]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (reecegze @ Aug 2 2008, 12:30 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=570252)</div>
didnt you just rebuild the tubo ?? :S no offence but did you do it properly[/b]

Yes i just did but when i got my rebuild kit (genuine Garrett), it didn't have the compressor housing seal in it. The guy said he didn't have one but one that was close to the one i needed. Obviously this may be causing problems with it boosting etc but still wont explain excess oil. I might just buy a new one as mine has a couple cracks in the exhaust housing around the internal gate sealing area.

I'm pretty much just over it right now. Nothing ever seems to work and just causes headaches. Quote from a friend at Beyond Custom "you car is just a massive failure!"

[egg_83]

what weight is the penrite run in oil? if its around 20w 50 it can easily blow seals as its too thick

[350hp4agte]

how thick is the oil drain hose from the turbo is it striaght down to your sump because the oil out of the turbo is not under pressure and needs a straight flow down back to the sump and it needs to be about 1/2 inch from memory if its got any minimal restrictions oil wont drain and it wont take long at all to blow seals in your turbo

also i had ngk irridiums at 25 bucks each in my 4agte i found that stock "shitty" ngk's at two levels colder made more power on the dyno, i don't no weather you no but you need to buy coolder plugs if you run a turbo i think its 6's instead of 8's, the $25 irridiums always fucked up on me made that same wrx noise to but i never had a issue with the chep ngks

also if air is shooting out your oil cap doesnt that mean your valve stem seals are rooted

[sprintdaddy]

The moral of this story "do it once do it right" and never trust anyone completely alway check on what their doing.

[floody31]

You say your T piece restricts oil feed, but what size is it? I know from my experience with Nissan BB turbos which are nigh on the same cartridge as a BB T28, assuming thats what you have, the restrictor banjo bolt in those is tiny; in the order of a 1.5mm oil orifice.

Compressor side seals do often go and pump oil into the intake when the feed pressure/volume is too high. I'd also suggest not to run it, especially not to 'keep the boot in' to get boost up..if its pumping oil out the comp side not turbine side it will have the potential to induce some severe pinging.

WTF is 'running in oil'? what actual weight/viscosity is it?

[AE71 Rolla]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (350hp4agte @ Aug 3 2008, 05:51 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=570515)</div>
how thick is the oil drain hose from the turbo is it striaght down to your sump because the oil out of the turbo is not under pressure and needs a straight flow down back to the sump and it needs to be about 1/2 inch from memory if its got any minimal restrictions oil wont drain and it wont take long at all to blow seals in your turbo

also i had ngk irridiums at 25 bucks each in my 4agte i found that stock "shitty" ngk's at two levels colder made more power on the dyno, i don't no weather you no but you need to buy coolder plugs if you run a turbo i think its 6's instead of 8's, the $25 irridiums always fucked up on me made that same wrx noise to but i never had a issue with the chep ngks

also if air is shooting out your oil cap doesnt that mean your valve stem seals are rooted[/b]

The oil drain hose is 1/2" from memory but the stock drain pipe on the turbo has a slight bend in it. I may need to rotate the housing around to put it right at the bottom.
I never had any trouble with the NGK iridiums so far but might have to buy some colder plugs to see the results when i put it on the dyno.
Valve stem seals are brand new items and i paid a head reco place to install them.


<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (floody31 @ Aug 3 2008, 09:48 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=570565)</div>
You say your T piece restricts oil feed, but what size is it? I know from my experience with Nissan BB turbos which are nigh on the same cartridge as a BB T28, assuming thats what you have, the restrictor banjo bolt in those is tiny; in the order of a 1.5mm oil orifice.

Compressor side seals do often go and pump oil into the intake when the feed pressure/volume is too high. I'd also suggest not to run it, especially not to 'keep the boot in' to get boost up..if its pumping oil out the comp side not turbine side it will have the potential to induce some severe pinging.

WTF is 'running in oil'? what actual weight/viscosity is it?[/b]

Restriction is about 2.5-3mm so i thought that would be plenty.
I've checked the piping on the compressor side and there no oil in the piping.
Running in oil is "Running-in Oil" made by Penrite. It is 15w-40 and only used for the first 500km or 20hrs

[Gunner]

The restriction is not small enough, as was said it needs to be at about 1-1.5mm, the turbo cartridge must be straight, ie, the oil feed and return must be straight up and down, or as close as possible.

Take the turbo to be rebuilt, while its the ask them for the restrictor for the oil feed, if they don't know what your talkin bout call gcg and get one through them, they are cheap, its just a little brass nipple basically, as floody said BB turbo's especially garrett, do not like alot of oil, it only needs to trickle in.

Irridiums are a waste of money, spark plugs in modified turbo cars foul up, why waste money on fouling $80 worth of plugs when you can spend $10 on plugs that will be shithouse in 2-3months anyway.

[Tyrie]

yeh I have a 1mm restrictor for my Nissan BB core. It is a speedflow part which fits the speedlow fittings i have. About $6 from memory.

[AE71 Rolla]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Tyrie @ Aug 4 2008, 03:40 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=571051)</div>
yeh I have a 1mm restrictor for my Nissan BB core. It is a speedflow part which fits the speedlow fittings i have. About $6 from memory.[/b]

Do you happen to know the part number as i have Speedflow fittings on my turbo

[Gunner]

your turbo shop will have them

[Tyrie]

no part number sorry, its a little too small to have one stamped on it :P I just went to my local speedflow supplier and ordered a 1mm restrictor to suit the size of line i'm running (don't know that size either, i just took it with me and said "it has to fit this")

[mikewestphoto]

Part numbers are 399-03 for -3 and 399-04 for -4, both 1mm holes.