4age manifold insulation plates! are you intrested?

[Tim.duncan]

Hey guys

I was reading this on autospeed (great web site!!!)

http://autospeed.com/A_110474/cms/article.html

I email the guy and he said that they normally need 20 orders before they go into the making proces. He said that they will do the manifold and throtal bodies for less that $100 if we can get enough together this could be one more little peformance mod we could make to the Mighty 4age!!
let me know
email me on timothy.duncan@alcan.com

also please post your thought for every one to look at

cheers

[70XIN]

already available on ebay

[rthy]

I want to know what difference this makes in the real world

[Tim.duncan]

Twincam16 posted this on rollerclub.com thought it was worth a read

QUOTE
I just had to try this air charge cooling add-on recently released by Outlaw Engineering for the SR20VE. I thought it complimentary to my other gizmo's (Neodynium magnets on the fuel line, air charge oscillator on the manifold etc, air ram effect from the front apron). You can see below a photograph of my method and the results on a graph. I took the trouble to measure temperatures both before and after the installation of the thermoblok insulating spacers.

The Theory - Cooler air into the engine = more power and better throttle response. A good idea can be had by comparing how your engine responds on a cold day in the warm-up minutes and then think about how it feels on the hottest summer day, heat-soaked in crawling traffic.

The Spacers - Outlaw have made an excellent kit, they send you full instructions, precision machined spacers made from laminated thermoset plastic. You get 3 pieces, two for each edge of the inlet manifold and one for the throttle body with paper gaskets. You also get a lot of replacement fasteners, studs and bolts of longer shank for the thickened flanges.

The Fitting - This is a pain (reaching and lying over the front of your car), if you've got your engine out of the car it will be twice as easy. It took me a whole day, there's quite a lot of precision work and the danger of fuel lines and petrol. You'll find difficulties with virtually all steel braces/brackets to the inlet manifold becuase it now stands 20mm further away from the block. I managed to re-fit only one bracket by adding steel washer spacers and that fouled the throttle cable!

The Test Method - I took my uncalibrated infra-red spot thermometer and photographed readings at 5min intervals from startup. I used the Sony digital camera time stamped photo's and images to ensure correct values against actuals and reduce simple recording errors.

Results discussion - It does work, at least under test conditions. These results were not as clear as they might have been because the "after" measurement was taken on a warmer day creating higher start temps. It's interesting to note two clear outcomes; fact the Throttle body runs hotter throughout the test because it's not able to conduct it's heat away as before (your startup tickover should fall faster as a result of this mod). Manifold temperature actually falls in the 20th minute, I can only imagine that this result of cooler charge air dropping the temp through air conduction.

When driving I have noticed an improved throttle response although it's still not like when your car is in warm-up mode. When travelling slowly in hot conditions the manifold tends to assume the under-bonnet temperature through general hot air conduction (over-riding the reduced metal to metal conduction).

Conclusion - This is modification is worthwhile and much easier to comtemplate if you've got your motor out of the car.

Reduced: 92% of original size [ 556 x 542 ] - Click to view full image

[rthy]

thanks for the post, a little unscientific for me as he could just be feeling a placibo effect

also 20mm is a huge spacer!!

[Jonny Rochester]

The 4A-GE 20 valve has this heat insulator plate as standard. It is about 4 or 5mm thick, and is between the head and the inlet manifold.

Also the 2T-G and 4K-C and 22R also have these heat insulator plates between the carby and the intake manifold, as almost every carby vehicle does.

The 4A-GE 16 valve engine does not have it.

On carby engines, the heat insulator is mostly to stop heat soak in the carby itself. This is so fuel in the fuel bowle does not get too hot and start to get bubbles in it, which may cause it to run lean or something. Or a waste of fuel in evaporation at least. But on carby engines the inlet manifold and runners are allowed to heat up (some even warmed by coolant gallerys) as this is better on a crude carby motor, the heat needed to stop fuel droplets forming.

On most single throttle EFI engines, there is "coolant" hoses going to the throttle body to heat it up! I guess this is to shorten the warm up time, and stop ice forming on the thottle. Most of us here do without it with no problems.

On the 20 valve, the heat insulator would be for performance gains I am guessing.