View Full Version : wearing a new motor in
Fozz
30th July 2008, 07:22 PM
hey guys
got my 4age rebuilt and i ve asked a few people about the best way to wear it in but i don't know what to do
my mechanic said i should thrash it otherwise the the rings will glaze the bore
but yeah if some one can tell me the best way it would be appreciated
and also how long you need to wear your motor in and any other useful info
cheers
SNAP
30th July 2008, 07:37 PM
Thrash it? freak who's your mechanic? stay away from him!
just drive it normal, keep it below 4000rpm make sure you vary the RPM when your cruzing, keeping the motor at a constant RPM will glaze up your bore's.
So give it a hit every now and then, up to 5500 - 6000 RPM.. load it up as well but not for to long.
try and put it thru as many different load combinations as you can i would say is the best..
Fozz
30th July 2008, 07:41 PM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (SNAP @ Jul 30 2008, 06:37 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=568930)</div>
Thrash it? freak who's your mechanic? stay away from him!
just drive it normal, keep it below 4000rpm make sure you vary the RPM when your cruzing, keeping the motor at a constant RPM will glaze up your bore's.
So give it a hit every now and then, up to 5500 - 6000 RPM.. load it up as well but not for to long.
try and put it thru as many different load combinations as you can i would say is the best..[/b]
my mecahnic is a performance autos in nerang he did a good job on the motor but i thought he was wrong about thrashing it
well I'm ganna take it for a morning drive tomorrow so yeah thanks for the info
ke kid
30th July 2008, 08:01 PM
get someone to run it in on the dyno. its alot easier and you know its going to be done right :2thumbs:
mikewestphoto
30th July 2008, 08:09 PM
What's the first thing that comes up on google when you type in engine break in?
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Enjoy!
mech`s blue
30th July 2008, 08:19 PM
i was always taught to keep it at high revs in the lower gears for high revving motors and lower revs in higher gears for low revving torque monsters.
i.e 4 cyl - 1,2,3 gears at highish rpm with small amounts of idle and low rpm driving
8 cyl - 3,4,5 gears at low rpm with small busrts of high rpm in lower gears
lo_rolla
30th July 2008, 08:22 PM
Drive along in 5th gear an accelerate from 60 to 90 repeatedly.
Never let it idle for long
Don't let the revs sit in one place.
riojin
30th July 2008, 08:28 PM
my mate rebuilds his own v8's in his track car and his son is a mechanic. they both say drive the engine how it will be used for the rest of its running life from that rebuild.
so if youre going to thrash it for its whole life, thrash it straight away. if youre gonna baby it for its whole life baby it straight away.
Fozz
30th July 2008, 09:13 PM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Ken @ Jul 30 2008, 07:09 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=568951)</div>
What's the first thing that comes up on google when you type in engine break in?
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Enjoy![/b]
Thanks for the article ken it was a good read
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (riojin @ Jul 30 2008, 07:28 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=568965)</div>
my mate rebuilds his own v8's in his track car and his son is a mechanic. they both say drive the engine how it will be used for the rest of its running life from that rebuild.
so if youre going to thrash it for its whole life, thrash it straight away. if youre gonna baby it for its whole life baby it straight away.[/b]
hey riojin u have a point there most of what u said was in that article ken posted up
af300e
30th July 2008, 09:17 PM
Regardless of the rev range of the motor, lug it, load it up. This pushes the rings against the bore more than revs will. Don't rev it too hard, don't use full throttle for the first tank of fuel.
This info is fresh from the yamaha yz250f manual, and they are a high revs full race spec motor (13,500rpm, 12.5:1 comp etc).
Baby it and you'll be topping up oil forever, but don't go crazy on it and use mineral oil.
EDIT: I just read that site in the link and scrolled down to the picture of the two pistons. Sorry, gonna have to call BS on that pic. The one they claim to have run in by their style doesn't appear to have any discolouring, EVEN ON THE CROWN!!!
ozwd
30th July 2008, 09:40 PM
run for 20 mins @ 2000rpm to 2800 rpm then change the oil and filter add mineral oil " no synthetic " and drive it normally for 1000km with no huge revs
MYT-16V
30th July 2008, 10:35 PM
+1 "no synthetic" for whilst running in go easy for the first 1000km's and then thrash it or the rings wont bed in properly.
It's important how it's worn in as to how it will perform later in life.
Your mechanics right
redsae86
31st July 2008, 12:16 AM
I'm about to start running in my engine. i just got some special running in oil from penrite. it is actually called "running in oil" so it doesnt glaze the bore. But my engine is boosted so i will be semi babying it( no big boost), Are you meant to thrash a brand new engine straight after re-build?
SpotterOne
31st July 2008, 12:17 AM
I just pulled my motor down because it broke a ring land (old, tired pistons). The upside is I got to have a look at what the motor looks like after just 500km of VERY hard driving (all track work) using my tune and running in method.
Rings - Almost bedded in. Looking very good
Bores - Hone marks still there. Some material transfer - good.
Big end Bearings - Very few marks, plenty of oil around - good.
Main bearings - some scuffs, but fairly certain this happened because the engine spat 2.5lt of oil out at Wakefield.
I've now seen with my own eyes that my run-in procedure works with MY ENGINE that I built.
The run in procedure consists of the following:
Drive to the nearest big hill (less than 1km for me)
put it in second
nail it to 5k
go back down
nail it to 5k again
go back down
nail it to 6k
go home
change oil
put the car on a trailer and go racing
race all day
go home
change oil again
end
As some of the others have said, stick with a mineral oil at the beginning. Try to keep some sort of load on the rings so they push hard into the bore and bed in. Second oil change should also be mineral. Leave the synthetic out until about 1000km.
Note, this worked for me in my car. If you do this and blow your new engine up, thats your own problem!
rthy
31st July 2008, 12:59 AM
I have been told not to rev it too hard but maximum throttle bursts on and off, makes sense to me
riojin
31st July 2008, 01:02 AM
if you paid someone to rebuild your engine they should have run the engine in for you.
they use run in mineral oil and rev the engine at 2000-3000rpm for 20-30mins (depending on the engine). and then the oil and filter is changed. at this point they should be using mineral oil again.
drive the engine how you will be for the rest of it running the current rebuild.
at the first oil change you should then be able to run synthetic oil.
Marco
31st July 2008, 08:31 PM
holden sales reps have been saying since the birth of commodores drive it now like you allways will. so maybe thrash it from birth but then again tehre is a risk there...
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.3 Copyright © 2025 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.