What diff is everyone using?? 200+rwkw??

[Nic19]

hey guys im putting an sr20de+t into my ke70. im planning on putting an r31 diff in but was seeing what else people are using that relativly a straight swap??
cheers
nic

[R&D Mechanical]

use a hilux diff, just gotta reweld your mounts onthe diff and your set!


un breakable!

[doony]

and sick final drive ratios

[maxhag]

i will use a R31 with a minispool, M&A Engineering said it would be good for 600hp, within reason of course.


JoJo

[Beau]

Hilux for the win!

Im running a Lux diff with a mini spool

does that make my 86 1/3 MINITRUCK?

[drift kid]

^^^ haha, im gunna go hilux eventually, what model is it?

[Beau]

Um its the older shape that they come out of i cant remember the right year its 1980 something.

You know its the right diff as it has the signature welds around the pumkin of the diff

[fixeruperer]

rn40 or 41
1410mm hub face to hub face.

[Nic19]

well i was going to go for the r31 diff as you get disc rear end straight away. plus all you do is re weld the stock mounts onto it aswell. plus it will increase the track to match the s13 front end.

[reecegze]

hilux diff with r31 calipers

[redsprinter]

f- series targo diff anybody ? lighter then the hilux and can take a beating .. ill be doing this conversion ... very soon as my t-series has finally shit it self.

[Beau]

yer F-series is good. I set one of these up the other day for a customers FJ20 sprinter.

Big diff. But seems the goods once the mounts are on. Plus you can run altezza LSDs in them so they are full of win.

If you are making a diff ie F-series or Hilux. Make sure you make a jig before you just go cutting mounts off. Ive seen ppl do it and spend hours trying to work out where to put everything.

[ThatsHowWeRoll]

in my datto im runnin the r31 28 spline and an sr20...

they seem really tuff...the weak point is the crown and pinion wears easier than id like so they get whiney sometimes....but i never stress about full on snappin shit.

Iv gone kaaz 2way and it is great!!

[stahlz_ae86]

Anyone know the face to face measurement on F series?

[Simon-KE70]

R31 is the go personally, as mentioned, u get disks, just run Bluebird calipers and you got sweet brakes that actually work.

No need to shorten the diff down either, its 30mm wider each side compared to stock. Basically u can run cheap shit offset wheels and fill the guards lol.

Pintara ratio is 4.1 whis is the best your going to get, stock R31 skline manual is 3.7 i believe.

but never the less... you'll never EVER break and axle ;)

[70XIN]

Anyone know the face to face measurement on F series?

There are various.

There is one EXACTLY the same width as an S/T-series, but its on a VERY hard to find Mk-II Corona or something along those lines (one from 197X kinda era)

The more common YR21-22 tarago diffs are a cm wider each side, 1430mm altogether if i remember correctly. This'll no doubt be the diff that 90% of F-series ae86 diff owners will use for their car.


R31 is the go personally, as mentioned, u get disks, just run Bluebird calipers and you got sweet brakes that actually work.

No need to shorten the diff down either, its 30mm wider each side compared to stock. Basically u can run cheap shit offset wheels and fill the guards lol.

Pintara ratio is 4.1 whis is the best your going to get, stock R31 skline manual is 3.7 i believe.

but never the less... you'll never EVER break and axle ;)

Not to mention, off ebay, a minispool to suit this is only $100

REALLY hard to go past the ol' R31 diff, its a great option

[Simon-KE70]

yeah becareful where u get those Ebay spools from... a mate of mine has stripped the splines in them in his R31 drift car with an RB20 in it.... no probs with axles but the mini spool died.

fitted another one and no probs since, the supplyer said it was quite common. so my mate shopped elsewhere lol

[hinricp]

Got an F series and am using a Truetrac from Rabid Chimp in the states. Plenty strong enough for the 86 with 200rwkw

[8ball]

R31 is the go personally, as mentioned, u get disks, just run Bluebird calipers and you got sweet brakes that actually work.

No need to shorten the diff down either, its 30mm wider each side compared to stock. Basically u can run cheap shit offset wheels and fill the guards lol.

Pintara ratio is 4.1 whis is the best your going to get, stock R31 skline manual is 3.7 i believe.

but never the less... you'll never EVER break and axle ;)

I`ll agree that you will find it extremely difficult to break a standard B/W 28 spline axle, but a hi-lux has 30 splines and a shitload more ratios to choose from, i`m also sure that the hi-lux diff from rn41s are 1410mm long which is even closer than a skyline diff to the correct length and the last but best reason is that hi-lux diffs are made by, you guessed it "TOYOTA".:soldier:

[Simon-KE70]

yeah and the downside is that the 1410mm diff is getting harder and harder to find, also has drum brakes.

theres pro's and con's to everything, and no right diff' its a matter of what you can find for the money

[8ball]

I just remembered you can source 4.77 c&p for borgys but you have to import them from South Africa and they have to be modified to fit the local borgy housings.

[8ball]

yeah and the downside is that the 1410mm diff is getting harder and harder to find, also has drum brakes.

theres pro's and con's to everything, and no right diff' its a matter of what you can find for the money

I don`t know where you get your info mate but i can assure you there is a lot less r31 skyline diffs than hi-lux diffs and also new hi-lux gears will be cheaper than new b/w c&ps and how do i know this, five years experience in a workshop dealing with diffs and gearboxes, so if you need advice and your on the coast PM me if you wish and i will try my best to solve your problem.

[slydar]

8 ball you are a little off. we are talking whole diffs suitable for conversions, on somewhat of a budget. meaning re bracketing only and really no pcd changes either. no one here really has the budget for shortening diff housings and axles.

there are alot of r31s at wreckers all the time. there are not very often 40 series hilux diff housings at wreckers, more often they are at specialist 4wd wreckers, where you will pay a lot more for them. even if you nab one at a normal wrecker, youll still pay more for parts from 4wd/commercial than passenger car.

basically, the G series hilux diff everyone is talking about is a bit rare. rare enough for me to consider grabbing one i saw today even though it had no centre (easy) or axles (not easy, or, at least not cheap) even though i have no real use for it.

r31 diffs are a sort of ok option. if youre building a "mongrel" theyre easy to find and they will probably do the job ok, but theres a lot of reasons why i wouldnt use/be satisfied with one.

i personally think the track increase is too much. also there is no one who can really give a definitive answer to how well the lsds that are available for them work, or how long they last. the brakes are a bonus, but a small one really. the corolla scene is fairly drift orientated, and so discs brakes arent really much of an advantage.
im not too certain about ratios options, but its unlikely theyre anywhere near as diverse/accessible as most toyota diffs.

the pic for a high power "drift" corolla i think is toyota F code from either yr22 or mx13 ect.

these are close to the same track as stock, right pcd. MANY ratios, and probably the most diverse LSD options of ANY DIFF IN THE WORLD. all the big jap brands, + just about all the yank/4wd aftermarket brands too.

[8ball]

8 ball you are a little off. we are talking whole diffs suitable for conversions, on somewhat of a budget. meaning re bracketing only and really no pcd changes either. no one here really has the budget for shortening diff housings and axles.

No i don`t think so Dimitri, if you get the right housing and axles their is no need to shorten it and pcd changes would not add a great deal to the price, also what makes you think that the diffs your talking about, the yr22 or mx13 etc would be any cheaper, it seems that their is a lot of confusion and a lot of unsubstantiated information about diffs and their capabilities on this site. I would like to share my knowledge and experience in diffs and g,boxes but only if people want to know.

[Simon-KE70]

feel free to share the information then mate, no point keeping it all to yourself.

[Ae86sam]

Only 1 decent option if you want a LSD and thats the F-Series Diff..

[sr_rolla]

any hilux 2wd up to 95ish is 1410mm, the later ones have shit ratios tho. The hilux is stupid strong, has a ford stud pattern if u wish to go that way, has a bunch of ratios, has stupid strong axles and is a banjo style center so u can swap centers in 20mins as oppossed to several hours with the pintara diff. You can get a decent LSD from either quaife (expensive) or KAAZ, u can get air lockers, soft lockers, full detriot lockers, a new electronic locker from harrop, and full spools if you want to go that way. They arent stupid dear either, i got a quote a few weeks ago of $300 for the whole diff including drums, they are only dear if u go to wreckers that have cottened on to what we use them for.

I vote hilux

As another option, mitsubishi scorpion will fit aswell.
1400mm long, dat/toyota stud pattern, L300 van internals (read big axles), decent ratio, disks, and there are LSD's available if you look.

[slydar]

No i don`t think so Dimitri, if you get the right housing and axles their is no need to shorten it and pcd changes would not add a great deal to the price, also what makes you think that the diffs your talking about, the yr22 or mx13 etc would be any cheaper, it seems that their is a lot of confusion and a lot of unsubstantiated information about diffs and their capabilities on this site. I would like to share my knowledge and experience in diffs and g,boxes but only if people want to know.

at a total of, from what i can remember, well over 40mm wider i think it is( r31 BW) too wide. unless you know one thats closer to stock? or are you talking about G series hilux? basically, i think theyre kinda overkill, most people arent making enough power to warrant using one, and theyre also heavier again..

pcd change might not be too expensive, but if its required, then comparatively, it offsets the price of the yr22/mx13 diff anyway, as these dont need this done. those 2 diffs are also cheaper than hilux.. for sure. hilux = $$. heaps of people into them, and out there breaking them = $$ to auto parts recyclers.

re price. i check the 3 main wreckers i deal with usually 2 times a week, and am often buying.

i have personally bought mx13 diffs for less than $200 more than once. but even at say $400, theyre still a good deal.

yr22 are cheaper in most instances, and also bordering on common. would never pay more than $200, and usually theres at least 1 around.

an extremely wide variety of ratios can be found in many many different toyotas. basically all irs passenger cars are F series. and then every 4wd toyota uses one in the front..

thats my view, based on fact and first hand knowledge. if you got a different spin on it, cool go on and tell us why.

[8ball]

any hilux 2wd up to 95ish is 1410mm, the later ones have shit ratios tho. The hilux is stupid strong, has a ford stud pattern if u wish to go that way, has a bunch of ratios, has stupid strong axles and is a banjo style center so u can swap centers in 20mins as oppossed to several hours with the pintara diff. You can get a decent LSD from either quaife (expensive) or KAAZ, u can get air lockers, soft lockers, full detriot lockers, a new electronic locker from harrop, and full spools if you want to go that way. They arent stupid dear either, i got a quote a few weeks ago of $300 for the whole diff including drums, they are only dear if u go to wreckers that have cottened on to what we use them for.

I vote hilux

As another option, mitsubishi scorpion will fit aswell.
1400mm long, dat/toyota stud pattern, L300 van internals (read big axles), decent ratio, disks, and there are LSD's available if you look.

Wow it`s good to see that their are actually other people on here with an alternative viewpoint on this subject, i mean if we all bought the same shit for our cars and painted them the same colour it would be a fukin shame. What is the point of having all those ponies up front if your diff is going to fail at the mere thought of being hammered, especially if you have just paid 2 or 3 grand to buy it and have it recoed, eg; t-series.

PS: am i still a bit off Slydar ?, i think you need to check your facts first before flaming someone else for their opinions mate.

[af300e]

I don't think every toyota 4x4 runs an F up front, mainly just the surfs/4 runners and probably the 4x4 vans too. Most hilux run g front and rear from what i've seen on placards in wreckers.

[8ball]

at a total of, from what i can remember, well over 40mm wider i think it is( r31 BW) too wide. unless you know one thats closer to stock? or are you talking about G series hilux? basically, i think theyre kinda overkill, most people arent making enough power to warrant using one, and theyre also heavier again..

yep that`s right Dimitri i was talking about g- series, not sure about r-31 diffs but i can tell you now if anyone is thinking of using any other borgy diff you will run into a shitload of trouble with pinion offsets, and as i`ve said before the wieght factor isn`t as much of a problem as people make out if you are running a turbo or even a sr20(yuk), i`ll put it to you this way, what would you rather do race every weekend or spend more time finding axles for your t-series ?.


pcd change might not be too expensive, but if its required, then comparatively, it offsets the price of the yr22/mx13 diff anyway, as these dont need this done. those 2 diffs are also cheaper than hilux.. for sure. hilux = $$. heaps of people into them, and out there breaking them = $$ to auto parts recyclers.

Not even worth an answer.


re price. i check the 3 main wreckers i deal with usually 2 times a week, and am often buying.

i have personally bought mx13 diffs for less than $200 more than once. but even at say $400, theyre still a good deal.

yr22 are cheaper in most instances, and also bordering on common. would never pay more than $200, and usually theres at least 1 around.


I think $200 for a hi-lux diff is a pretty good deal, what do you say fellas ?.


and then every 4wd toyota uses one in the front..

BZZT wrong, tell me why they would go to the trouble of using two different diffs in the same car, your gonna have to do better than that matey.

Like i said Dimitri get your facts straight and if you can`t, don`t try to piss in my pocket, dickhead.

[slydar]

Wow it`s good to see that their are actually other people on here with an alternative viewpoint on this subject, i mean if we all bought the same shit for our cars and painted them the same colour it would be a fukin shame. What is the point of having all those ponies up front if your diff is going to fail at the mere thought of being hammered, especially if you have just paid 2 or 3 grand to buy it and have it recoed, eg; t-series.

PS: am i still a bit off Slydar ?, i think you need to check your facts first before flaming someone else for their opinions mate.

yeah, you really are sprint daddy

like.. i honestly dont know what youre talking about. 1 minute prattling on about one thing, like youre the king of the knowledge fountain, and then, as soon as some one brings some sort of other view point in, youre on the defensive. its pathetic. no one even brough t series into the discussion? like what are you talking about?

its easy enough to just talk about it, you know. cool you think a G series is the go. no worries. i think theyre a bit too heavy, and seeing as theyre a bit more coin to change over, as you need a pcd change, i dont think its worth the extra, seeing as an F series is really strong enough in most cases, cheaper, and lighter. thats my view point, maybe to you, the fact its unbreakable is more important than un sprung weight, enough so you dont care about the extra cost.. no worries, but i dont agree, and i put my view point forward in a fairly diplomatic post...

but i guess i didnt realise right then who you were, one of the biggest dickheads to ever sign up to dc.. cant really be blamed i guess, your using a different SN... wonder why..

honestly, new forum, new start, cool. but give the attitude a rest FFS.

[sr_rolla]

K, this turned into a massive shitfight pretty quick huh?

Anyways, just another point, and im not having a go at anybody or whatever, but, does anybody have any direct wieght comparisons for a T F and G series and a Borgy?

There was a comparison done on the old site (i believe) and from memory (could b wrong but still) the difference between a t series with drums and a g series with disks was like 10-15kgs and an F series was somewhere in the middle.

If that is the only difference, i'd have 2 go overkill. I'd rather pick up a few kg's and never break any driveline parts. According to the title we are talking about 200kw + AE/KE's here so i dont think that 10-20kgs is a massive problem if it means no broken diffs.

I think a bigger concern would be weather the center will clear the floor or not at the extremely lowered stances that we all seem to be running (slydar, i know you'd just cut the floor out to fit it at this point :-P)

[8ball]

I wasn`t havin a go at anyone either until Dimitri put his two cents worth in, it just seems that wherever i am he is behind me tryin to trip me up so i`m tellin you now Dimitri FUCK OFF.

sr rolla it would seem that your answer is the most mature and unbiased one here, good on you mate, as for your suggestion about weighing them i`m all for it if it helps my fellow members.

I`ll take the opportunity to say this, if anyone on the coast here has a diff problem and you havn`t got much dosh give me a call and i`ll try to help you out, i don`t have much cash but i`m not into raping people wallets either, maybe someone might be able to help me with some area on my car, because believe me unlike what Dimitri says about me i aint no fountain of knowledge but i know enough.

regards Mick.
mob: 0419 849 806

[Hen may possibly be a nut]

Something which hasn't been mentioned yet is the F series from an MS112 Crown.

1450mm (from memory), discs, good internal drum handbrake (works damn well), huge wheel bearings. Down side is 5by114.3, still wheels are easy to find for them. I run Ford "snowflake" 15s (15x7 +6) and the guards just needed a backyard roll to fit it all.

And yes, Altezza LSDs fit them.

Hen

[mr2drift]

i think the only down side to the crown and hilux options for DRIFT use id the pcd change...

most people who DRIFT have 5-8 sets of rear wheels, and THIS is the biggest hassle with a pcd change, getting that many new slide rims...

the crown diff also weighs a huge amount more than a tarago diff...

i run a welded f tarago diff behind my 1uz, and recently, 14 months after installing it tore apart a welded center and axel. i use the car at least 2-3 times a month on track competatively, i reckon thats a very good life from what was a $200 diff.......

[slydar]

nah dude, im not leaving, unlike you, ive never been asked to.

to clarify. ok, its not "every toyota 4wd" but its enough hilux's to mean EVERY ratio youd ever want is available in F.

im going to leave it there, whoever reads this can make their own decision based on the info so far.

[sr_rolla]

If somebody does wiegh a bunch of diffs make sure they all have the same centers (open, LSD, etc), oil and whatever is the most commonly run brake setup (T series drum, G, F series disk etc)

[sly1300]

got so sick of smashing axles and centres in my locked s-series
so...
im now running a g-series hilux in my keto.
supra 4.3 lsd. (fuck yes, cant believe i ever used to love lockers after driving with a decent lsd)



shortened, and converted to 4x114 so my 14x8 longchumps will fit

absolute bastard to get up in there, seriously felt double the weight of the s series.
tailshaft change/uni joint change ( g series to sr box) etc and all good.

didnt need the diskies on the rear... that would be just wank factor.
the 9" (or are they 10's?) drums are massive, and more than capable of slowing down 190+rwkw

heavy, but oh so worth it. plus with big horsepower you dont really notice the extra weight, its still just comes on boost and goes mental.... and sideways.
but i cant stress enough how FUCKING AWESOME a good lsd is. ive had years and years of locked diffs in all sorts of datsuns, a shitload of mazdas and a coupla toyotas.
lockers are great for low powered shitters, can turn a $100 gutless car into a donut or wet weather weapon, but carparks and low speed driving or wheeling in and out of the garage.. death to lockers. long live the l.s.d

/end rant

[Hen may possibly be a nut]

i think the only down side to the crown and hilux options for DRIFT use id the pcd change.....
Yeah, even though I was looking for common wheels it was a pain to stock up again (maybe I just need to know more bogans, then Ford wheels would be easy to find)



the crown diff also weighs a huge amount more than a tarago diff...
I've never compared them directly, but the Crown diff is damn heavy. Bloody hard to fit single handedly.

Hen

PS, I strongly agree with the above post. 4 years of lockers then getting a good LSD. Yes, lockers can be fun, but a good LSD is a lot better.

[mfxae86]

i just finnished throwing in a yr21 tarago diff in my 86 and a supra 5 speed with some mates, the diff is locked and track has been left as is i only had 2 shave the rear bar mounts slightly to stop my rear dubz slightly scrubing, has taken a bit of abuse so far, i wouldnt mind going lsd what fits up?

[70XIN]

there are a fair few, but one of the easier ones is the GXE/SXE10 (Toyota RS200/Lexus IS200). some came stock with LSD's, and there are a fair few aftermarket options too

i have a massive list of all the cars that came with F diffs, just cant find it

[mfxae86]

there are a fair few, but one of the easier ones is the GXE/SXE10 (Toyota RS200/Lexus IS200). some came stock with LSD's, and there are a fair few aftermarket options too

i have a massive list of all the cars that came with F diffs, just cant find it


when u do find it make sure u post up i may need to get one some day (when im overthe locker) and would really like to know what i can get.

[Hen may possibly be a nut]

There are a few options for F series LSDs:
- Factory MA61, not specially good and definitely flogged by now
- *XE10, factory or aftermarket
- Aftermarket from the US. Many options since F was used in some 4WDs. You can get true-tracs, airlockers, spools and all sorts of other things.
- Maybe some rare models like RA28GT and MA41 and other weird shit, but not really worth considering.

The big list (which is around on the net) lists stacks of models, and is good for finding ratios, but they're almost exclusively open centres. Also search Toymods for "Norbies diff database".

Hen

[Phife]

In regards to weight: (approx)
T series = 62kg
F series = 75kg
G series = 85kg
R31 = heavy, around 75kg-80kg?

Axle spline diameter comparisons: (as researched at wreckers)
Zenki T series = 23.5mm
Kouki T Series = 25mm
YR21 E series = 25mm
YR22 F Series = 28mm
RN25 G Series = 33mm
R31 BW78 28 spline = 30mm

Also, the R31 diff is 1460mm wide and the differential carrier is off-centre meaning one side would require cutting down by 50mm to equal 1410mm.

Edit: for pictorial reference, i have uploaded a pic of R31 axles showing the length difference LINK (http://i43.tinypic.com/rjk4kz.jpg)

[Simon-KE70]

u dont need to cut the 31 diff down at all really and certainly not on one side. most diff's have off centre carriers anyway so its not a prob at all

[Golberg]

From memory MX83 Cressida's use an F series diff... and the Grande versions all have factory LSD's... but they would more than likely need a good rebuild by now.

[mfxae86]

oh i am most definatley meaning a mechanical aftermarket unit so just need 2 know what will fit the "f series" casing if its a is200 or ma80 or watever centre coz there all basicaly in d same price range when u get em new

[slydar]

youre meaning ma70? its probably both dude. and a lot of others, gz10/mz11, ga70, ra65, ma61, ga6x, mx73, ect ect. most irs sedans and coupes are f series, unless theyre really high powered, some jz powered stuff is G (and later stuff sometimes A) but the best one to order it from is sxe10. these are all F series.

sxe10 is what ant ordered his trd center for, for his F series live axle diff. which is the one brad (steroid chickens) owns now. same case with beau yates (has/had the same set up)

[70XIN]

^ MA70 is a G-series man, so unfortunately no dice there

This is my (fairly) comprehensive list of F-series diffs (IRS & Live Axle), all of which have an LSD available through TRD, and some of which may have LSD's as standard :) ALL share the same TRD Part # 41301-RA010

*TAKE NOTE OF YEAR MODEL/ENGINE - if you don't get it right, there's a good chance you'll get the wrong diff centre :)*

SXE10 Altezza (RS200) - 98+ (3SGE)
GXE10 Altezza (IS200) - 98+ (1GFE)

TA63 Carina - 82-85 (3T-GTE)
RA63 Carina - 81-82 (18R-GE)

GA61 CelicaXX - 81-86 (1G-GE)
MA61 CelicaXX - 81-86 (5M-GE)
MA63 CelicaXX - 81-86 (M-TE)

TA64 Celica 82-83 (4T-GTE)
TA63 Celica 82-85 (3S-GTE)
RA63 Celica 81-82 (18R-GE)
AA63 Celica 83-85 (4A-GE)

TT142 Corona 82-87 (3T-GTE)
RT141 Corona 82 (18R-GE)

GS130 Crown 87-99 (1G-GE, 1G-GP)
GS131 Crown 87-88 (1G-GE, 1G-FE)
GS131 Crown 88-95 (1G-GE, 1G-FE)

YM130/MS130/LS130/LS131 Crown 87-99 (M-P, 3Y-P, 2L, 2L-T, 2L-TE)

JZS130 Crown 90-99 (1JZ-GE)

GS141 Crown 91-95 (1G-GE)
LS141 Crown 91-95 (2L-TE)

JZS171 Crown 99+ (1JZ-FSE)* Only Auto Version

GRX125 Mark X 04+ (4GR-FSE)

GZ10 Soarer 81-85 (1G-GE)
MZ10 Soarer 81-85 (MT-E)
MZ11 Soarer 81-85 (5M-GE)
MZ12 Soarer 85 (6M-GE)

GZ20 Soarer 86-89 (1G-GE)
GZ20 Soarer 89-91 (1G-FE)

GA70 Supra 86-88 (1G-GE)
GA70 Supra 88-90 (1G-FE)



You better all love me for that

[BLACK COUPE]

i loved you before that^^

[70XIN]

(K) mwa

[Magic School Bus]

Big ups to 7oxin for all that info on f series

Has anyone got a difinitive answer on what needs to be done to the R31 diff to get it to fit in the AE86, none of the my firend told me that his second cousin twice removed said that it bolts straight up/you need to cut the diff in too 4 pieces.

Also what is the maximum power that anyone has run through any of these diffs R31/F/G and has anyone every broken one?

Thanks all

[70XIN]

Your friend .. is wonderful .. but not correct

For an R31 Diff (like all the others .. E/F/G-series) my guess would be:

-Tailshaft (Driveline services and the like will make you a nice 3", single-piece unit for 400-500 clams)
-Remove all mounts from R31 diff. Weld AE/KE mounts onto R31 diff in appropriate positions (using a jig to do this properly is the best bet).
-Sort out handbrake lines
-Sort out brake lines

And i dont think any of us have broken an F/G/R31 .. i think Josh Young (1UZFE AE86) broke an axle on an F-diff .. but that's about it .. and he works that car over pretty heavily

R31 kids POUND on their diffs at 200+rwkw and don't have many dramas .. and that's in a MUCH heavier car .. safe to say you wouldn't break anything in one of those in a hurry, and if you do, a whole new diff is like $100..

And a G-series is just plain gay. It is a MONSTER of a diff that shouldn't be used for anything other than drag-racing, far far far far too overkill for an AE/KE.

[driftke70]

ive got an f series from a mk2 corona, run moved mounts, trd 2 way for supra/altezza, should be good for a fair bit of power or torque. Contrary to what people say, the narrowest of all the f series, which is what i have, is still a bit wider than a t series, id say about 20mm a side, the tarago f series is about 40mm a side. The g series you get from tarago and early hilux they are somewhere inbetween. They are all similar strengths

[af300e]

I'm not sure what width the ae86 t series diffs are, but my mx13 diff is 14mm longer in the housing than the s series, and disc conversion adds a few more mm since the discs are thicker than the drums. I forget the exact measurements, I'll run a tape over it tonight and post a definitive result.

PS. Golberg, MX83 are G series. The grande's are LSD as you mentioned.

[Dom86]

http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/stepho/diff.htm

This link has some usefull specs.

[driftke70]

1125 rings a bell for t series

[sundee]

Buy my F series! Yr22 tarago $650 check for sale section ;)

[filfilfil]

ive got an f series from a mk2 corona, run moved mounts, trd 2 way for supra/altezza, should be good for a fair bit of power or torque. Contrary to what people say, the narrowest of all the f series, which is what i have, is still a bit wider than a t series, id say about 20mm a side, the tarago f series is about 40mm a side. The g series you get from tarago and early hilux they are somewhere inbetween. They are all similar strengths

I too have a corona st141 avante b&w, already has disks and pcd...didnt know the supra/altezza trd fits tho...I just have a old VL turbo lsd to go in.

[driftke70]

mine isnt a borgie

[filfilfil]

mine isnt a borgie

Aaahhh...that would explain it then...thanks for clarifying that for me 8|

[sly1300]

And a G-series is just plain gay. It is a MONSTER of a diff that shouldn't be used for anything other than drag-racing, far far far far too overkill for an AE/KE.


:( :( :(

but i like overkill. :) and big clutch stabs.

[Magic School Bus]

there is an old Hiace van sitting in the car grave yard at my folks place, for sh1ts and giggles i thought i would go check out what the old war horse was packing. turns out it has a g series diff. G282.

i havn't measured how big it is yet, but before i go pulling it all out i was wondering if it would be worth my time, how hard is it to get LSD's for 2 pinion G series diffs? and is there any difference in axels between the 4 pinion and 2 pinions?

Thanks

[slydar]

the pinions are in the center, so number of pinions in the the has stock is irrelevant, that changes when you change the center to lsd. all splines are the same for all G series too as far as ive ever heard.

having said all the. hiace's are way too wide. much wider than yr22 (already on the wide side) and also 5 stud.

not really worth bothering unless you wanna run au falcon wheels.

[Brendan]

I've got two complete 2wd hilux's, where do I check the diff series? Ones an 83 I think and the others 84. Yeah I'm all for overkill :-). I love compression lock entries aswell. The hilux does mad single spinners. 100mtrs long before breaks get to hot to hold her.

[Medwin_3sGTE_AE86]

I've got two complete 2wd hilux's, where do I check the diff series? Ones an 83 I think and the others 84. Yeah I'm all for overkill :-). I love compression lock entries aswell. The hilux does mad single spinners. 100mtrs long before breaks get to hot to hold her.

'83 2WD Hilux measures in at 1410mm (from memory) and is what I have in mine. '84 model would be the same diff. Offset isnt too bad.... 8" (wide), 15+(offset) fills the standard gaurds, with the gaurds (lip) rolled 8" 0 offset would fill nicely.

Standard Hilux LSD are only good for a tad under 200rwkw, above that they just slip (ie lose the 'limited' ability, and become an SD - Slipping diff :P lol) and in any case, when you're playing with that sort of power really should balls up and go a detroit locker anyway! :P But if you really want the LSD above 200rwkw, you'll need to source a good 2-way from a supra etc and have someone fit the centre into the Hilux carrier. Does work, have seen it before and would do it, only ends up being a $3000 centre by the time you have someone properly fit it....



And a G-series is just plain gay. It is a MONSTER of a diff that shouldn't be used for anything other than drag-racing, far far far far too overkill for an AE/KE.

I'd argue this point..... ^^^

Yes, they are a big diff. With BIG axles, BIG bearings, BIG everything. But.... They can handle BIG power - without missing a beat. Why have the limited high powered models released by toyota (Supra, Soarer etc) mostly come with the G-series (be it IRS) rear end? Because they're the only one that will take the power, day in day out. They fit nicely, dont look out of place and dont weigh too much - yes they are heavy but its a trade off for capability.

But granted, for the majority of members on here, G series is too much. But, there are instances where it is needed....

[70XIN]

I'm yet to see any time (except maybe raceflo's old 600hp+ thing) that a G-series would even be an option, let alone required

I think it's quite simple: our cars weigh 1000kg, we don't need a diff anywhere near that size, unless one of us has a 1J/2J/RB25/26 and slams it weekly at the drags and nothing else, but that's not the situation...

Though in arguing that, i guess it doesn't matter, a G diff is unbreakable and can carry a vast amount of LSD's, plus they come in some fairly cool widths .. it's just the unnecessary 20-40kg extra weight that gets ME ;)

Oh, and for the record, only the old-school underpowered 1G/7M etcsupra/soarer's come with a G-series .. all the powerful ones come with an A/B diff :)

[driftke70]

rotational mass....

[Magic School Bus]

the pinions are in the center, so number of pinions in the the has stock is irrelevant, that changes when you change the center to lsd. all splines are the same for all G series too as far as ive ever heard.

having said all the. hiace's are way too wide. much wider than yr22 (already on the wide side) and also 5 stud.

not really worth bothering unless you wanna run au falcon wheels.

when you say it's too wide, just how wide is too wide on an AE86? Are the axels to long or is the whole diff the wrong shape?

i figure there is a reason why people haven't talked about using a diff out of a Hiace before just like to know what those reasons are.

thanks.

[70XIN]

He just means the whole width of the diff. A G282 from a Hiace van is 1470mm drum to drum, making it a good 30mm wider each side over a hachi .. just means you will have to run high-offset rims (not hard), or run massive bolt-on guards .. for those who want to run super-low-offset "JDM" wheels though, this diff is out of the question .. if that doesn't bother you, then you'll be sweet ;)

The plus side to that exact diff is it's got 4.3 ratio gears, which is pretty good for nearly any application :)

[Magic School Bus]

Sweet Thanks heaps 7OXIN

Car is track only so not worried chopping the guards up and putting some new ones on. The car could probabbly bennifit from the extra track to go with the s13 front end and the big motor.

[Brendan]

so a g282 hilux diff in my ksev should be good yeah? Just running falcon stockies. Overkill for my powerlevel but better too much than not enough.

What's the go with tailshafts?

Are w58 gearboxes any good? I've got one spare :-)

[Medwin_3sGTE_AE86]

so a g282 hilux diff in my ksev should be good yeah? Just running falcon stockies. Overkill for my powerlevel but better too much than not enough.

What's the go with tailshafts?

Are w58 gearboxes any good? I've got one spare :-)

I'd only put a Hilux in if you plan of having the power level to warrant it... otherwise it will be a waste and way too overkill. Ie a bolt in T series will be good for 160rwkw or so. If you've got the hilux diff there, build it and sell it, they fetch a pretty penny!

Get a custom single piece tailshaft made up, need the flange and uni off the Hilux diff and the gearbox yolk off whatever box you're planning on using....

W58 is pretty much the better gearbox to fit in an 86/kesev. There are many different versions of W58, most being alloy plate ones, but if you've got one with a nice rusty plate in the centre of the box then you've scored a genuine supra one (like me! :P) which are the best version. Looked after, these boxes can handle quite a lot of killerwasps, but clutch kicking it like you would a $2 hooker will kill them.

[Brendan]

Yeah I'm not to fussed if it's overkill. Pretty much don't want to blow a diff and I'm gonna be side stepping off the clutch pretty often :-) my ksev will have a 4age bigport soon and I reckon it'll mince the standard diff purty kwikly.

Thanks buddy :-)

[Simon-KE70]

LOL!

a 4age big port (even if it is turbo'd) does not warrent the need for a G series, even if you do plan on thrashing the hell out of it.

i'd only go G series if i was running something with huge torque. Fact: torque and abuse are the two things that kill drivetrain parts. fact: a 4age does not have torque.

[Medwin_3sGTE_AE86]

Yeah im sorry mate, but im with Simon on this one.

No need to upgrade diff or gearbox, if you've got both sitting there i'd sell them and use the $$ on other areas of the car, seriously.

For reference, my hilux diff lays 250rwkw down, but more importantly enough torque to leave most stunned. :P 3sGTE FTW hehe

[Simon-KE70]

an F series will be bullet proof behind any 4age combo. i'd go that ;)

[Brendan]

haha seems most people don't agree with my idea of a bullet proof thrasher lol. The gearbox is a w52 I think. Not sure without checking. I got it wrong before.

Yeah I've got the diff to play with and I don't want to weld the crappy ksev diff.

So people are telling me they wouldn't go a g series over standard or something bolt in seeing it can be done cheaper and it'll be stronger?

I've blown a diff before and limping home isn't fun at all.

Will the width be an issue in a ksev with a set of falcon stockies?

[Simon-KE70]

mate i can guarentee you that i thrashed my T series with 20V far harder then you could even dream about, and guess what, it never broke, not in 2 years of hard thrashing, track days, street drift and the works.

an F series would be absolutly BULLETPROOF and unbreakable with a 4age. hell it took josh young a LONG time to break one with a 1uz and he prob thrashes harder then anyone on this site.

so yes... G series is a waste of time

[Hen may possibly be a nut]

I concur with Simon and Medwin too.

In an AE86,
T = good for 90% of engines and drivers
F = Big power and hardcore abuse
G = When you're going way overboard on power

Hen

[Simon-KE70]

i wuv u hen

we should do team cheese again one of these days

[Brendan]

the thing is tho that it's impossible to find a diff like that in the town I'm in. I live in whyalla S.A. and my car will be the only 4age ksev in town. And besides that my mate owns the only 86 in town. I've got the diff there for cheaper than a t or f series and I seriously cannot see the advantage of going with either.

Why is every one against putting a super strong diff in an underpowered car?

Can someone enlighten me on the t and f series diffs? What they come in and what needs doing to them to fit a ksev? How many stud? Ratio? LSD options?

I'm still only learning about the whole toyota scene so the more I know the better I guess. I just always went with the assumption that the stronger the better.

I'm sure most people on here know a little more than I do but a lot of it comes down to availability in my case.

Peace out :-)

[MJ86]

It`s not the strength that they are worrying about it is the weight, but if that`s all you got bro i would not hesitate in using it, after all it is your car so basically you can do what you want with it, at least you won`t have to worry about changing axles or centres every other weekend when you could be racing or cruising.

[Hen may possibly be a nut]

we should do team cheese again one of these days
Hell yeah. Unfortunately, moving to Denmark has kind of put a stop to drift for a while... until of course I find a Volvo 240 wagon and a GT35.

[Brendan]

yeah maybe I should offer it up for trade for a t or f series? Would anybody be interested? I mean if I don't need it may aswell go to somewho who does? :-)

[mfxae86]

ok just for the record my f series (locked) is whining hard after about 2 months of running it and im only running 160Kw at the moment on the run in tune (gte set up), my tuner expects 250Kw+ out of my motor (which gets tuned on monday by the way, yay) so we will see if it even gets through the new tune, overall fairly disapointed with the performance of f series atm.... im thinking a g series should have been the go on my project

now with these LSD options for the F series how do i choose one for the diff i run from the list provided by 7oxin since it looks like im gonna be in the market for a lsd withing a week or so.

[Joel-AE86]

i wuv u hen

we should do team cheese again one of these days

HAha one day the cheese will rise again!

On another note. What how long do people think a T-Series will last behind a 3S-GTE pulling say a mild 180rwkw?

I think I may need to look for an F badboy sometime soon.

[driftke70]

ok just for the record my f series (locked) is whining hard after about 2 months of running it and im only running 160Kw at the moment on the run in tune (gte set up), my tuner expects 250Kw+ out of my motor (which gets tuned on monday by the way, yay) so we will see if it even gets through the new tune, overall fairly disapointed with the performance of f series atm.... im thinking a g series should have been the go on my project

now with these LSD options for the F series how do i choose one for the diff i run from the list provided by 7oxin since it looks like im gonna be in the market for a lsd withing a week or so.


locked diffs get put off ballance and whine
yours is fairly big = bigger whine

f series will deal with 250kw no problem.

use f series cw and p and use an off the shelf 2 way

[Simon-KE70]

HAha one day the cheese will rise again!

On another note. What how long do people think a T-Series will last behind a 3S-GTE pulling say a mild 180rwkw?

I think I may need to look for an F badboy sometime soon.

not very long joel lol

I broke my T series with turbo 4age and 150 kw but that was with much much thrashing for 2 years prior to that, so they do put up with a bit.

go the F in your case.

[sonsta]

use a G series hilux diff. that is whats in beuas car (dirty ibus's old diff)

[Golberg]

ok just for the record my f series (locked) is whining hard after about 2 months of running it and im only running 160Kw at the moment on the run in tune (gte set up), my tuner expects 250Kw+ out of my motor (which gets tuned on monday by the way, yay) so we will see if it even gets through the new tune, overall fairly disapointed with the performance of f series atm.... im thinking a g series should have been the go on my project

now with these LSD options for the F series how do i choose one for the diff i run from the list provided by 7oxin since it looks like im gonna be in the market for a lsd withing a week or so.

As driftke70 said, you lock a diff and its going to whine. You'd probably find that after a while you might even get a G series whining.

By locking any diff you're immediately putting it way past the torsional loading which its designed for. Couple that with a high torque engine and you're putting even more load in. Bye bye diff.

[driftke70]

most of its to do with the extra rotational mass you put in the center and the hum is from it being an eccentric mass.

[johl]

not very long joel lol

I broke my T series with turbo 4age and 150 kw but that was with much much thrashing for 2 years prior to that, so they do put up with a bit.

go the F in your case.

yeh for sure. i'v spat 2 axels and warped 1 centre in my t series behind my stock gze in 6 months. mostly daily driving with about 3 track days. and i drive it like a nana 90% of the time

[Hokey]

t series are too weak for anything turbo'd thats used for drifting. mates 4agte sprinter keeps breaking axles and he doesn't drive it that hard.

i've got a hilux diff in my car with the ca. probably overkill but i'll never have to worry about breaking anything.

[Ae86sam]

G Series is too heavy and too much spinning mass.. It will put unrequired stress on the motor and the gearbox on Throttle and under engine breaking..

Best of both worlds is the F series.. There isn't even an arguement really.. You won't break one no matter what you do.. The only reason Josh's broke was due to a weld failure inside and it chewed the gears..

Your car will be Bullet Proof with and F-Series.. The G will be detromental to entire package in the end..

[70XIN]

^ + 1

What i've been trying to say since the beginning of this thread :)

[Hen may possibly be a nut]

Mfx, was your centre straight from the wreckers and welded? There is a big difference between a well setup centre and a 25yr old job from the wreckers.

Running a T series (from Pick-a-part, welded) they would start to whine after their first drift day, and then last 6months to a year before smashing the crown wheel or breaking an axle. I'm sure a badly setup F would start to whine quickly too.

And in general, yes a G will work, and many people have done it, but is most likely overkill. However each to their own.

Hen

[mfxae86]

yeah the f series was a 1 legger when i picked it up from pick and payless and i got a mate to weld it up (trady) so its a good job on the welding, i drained and replaced the diff oil again today b4 taking in down for the tune (4th-5th time in like 2-3 months) and there was no "discolouration" in the oil and no big chunks in it either... i will just take your guys word for it that its normal and see how it goes, lol.

[reecegze]

Why is a g series diff overkill ? it weighs abit more then a f series but has got the strength there to support a common drifter with alot of power and easily obtainable not like an F series ? I dont see any difference in powerloss/speed from my t series to my G series conversion. In a turboed engine weight shouldnt effect it as much..

[sundee]

i think what there trying to get at is G series with its greater rotational mass - the Crown/Pinion + larger drive shafts (comparted to both T & F series) had a greater kenetic energy which during engine breaking all that engery would be absorbed by everything on front of it.. aka the box and engine... might cause undue ware etc..

[mfxae86]

Why is a g series diff overkill ? it weighs abit more then a f series but has got the strength there to support a common drifter with alot of power and easily obtainable not like an F series ? I dont see any difference in powerloss/speed from my t series to my G series conversion. In a turboed engine weight shouldnt effect it as much..

when i looked 4 my diff there were lots of cars with g series diffs in them but the diffs were raped or not there... tarago on the other hand had plenty and u keep 4 stud track not needed to be modified they are some of the bonuses i found

[squish_m8]

Just wondering wat do people think a volvo diff? is it useable or not?

[KE70]

I reckon you get the tape measure out and stick your head under a car, lol.

I guess most diffs can be made to fit, just depends how much custom stuff you wanna do.

[ae_mule]

im running a 7.1 inch "E" series locker in my ae70 and its sweet as. its drum but i much prefer drum over caliper handbrakes

[DamianG]

Hi All

I am VERY interested in an f Series tarago diff for my Lotus 7 replica I am building. I'd like to get one this weekend.

Is there somewhere with pics etc of how to identify the different diffs so I end up with the F Series.

cheers
Damian

[DamianG]

im running a 7.1 inch "E" series locker in my ae70 and its sweet as. its drum but i much prefer drum over caliper handbrakes

What cars ran the E Series diff, and are LSDs easily available.

cheers
Damian

[sundee]

What cars ran the E Series diff, and are LSDs easily available.

cheers
Damian

LSD availability is pretty crap if not none, weld it.
F series go to your local wrecker, their in all YR 22 taragos 2.4L EFI... yr21 = carbd engine and E series.

length of the F series is 1470mm or something 4 x 114.3

u will pay atleast 500 for an F series.

[hinricp]

have peronally pulled an f series from a corona mk2 at pick and pay less blacktown for $100 - just need to be patient and wait for one to arrive

[70XIN]

yeah word, 500 for an F-series = shafted

those puppies are worth 200-300 max, same deal with an E and a G

[sundee]

well u guys must be just lucky, ive called up numerous wreckers in sydney and including pick n payless n that about the ball park figure. 500 bones

[slydar]

i agree mostly, but mkII corona diff is worth money. last one i bought was from oxley. any diff there is worth over 200. if they think its old/rare, they charge more, which they did. i was happy to pay, because the part genuinely is rear. you cant expect to find those at the wreckers often. i go almost every week, those cars were never common. and theyre also fucking old now.

[ae86-13b]

hey yo i got r31 silouettediff in my 86 with the rotor i tightened the lsd and i give this thing a hard time no sighnes of anything braking.i didnt shorten the diff good lenght have fun mate im making 190rwkw very strong diff

[hodge]

[QUOTE=Phife;20686]In regards to weight: (approx)
T series = 62kg
F series = 75kg
G series = 85kg
R31 = heavy, around 75kg-80kg?

Axle spline diameter comparisons: (as researched at wreckers)
Zenki T series = 23.5mm
Kouki T Series = 25mm
YR21 E series = 25mm
YR22 F Series = 28mm
RN25 G Series = 33mm
R31 BW78 28 spline = 30mm

does anyone know if F series axels and center will fit into E series housing

[Hokey]

ae13b: what handbrake are you running?

[Fozz]

[QUOTE=Phife;20686]In regards to weight: (approx)
T series = 62kg
F series = 75kg
G series = 85kg
R31 = heavy, around 75kg-80kg?

Axle spline diameter comparisons: (as researched at wreckers)
Zenki T series = 23.5mm
Kouki T Series = 25mm
YR21 E series = 25mm
YR22 F Series = 28mm
RN25 G Series = 33mm
R31 BW78 28 spline = 30mm

does anyone know if F series axels and center will fit into E series housing


why would people bother upgrading to an e series when a kouki t series is the same axle spline? does any one know if the kouki t series is much stronger than the zenki or should i just go for something stronger

[70XIN]

kouki T-series is expensive ;) in my opinion the E-series is a good option for NA kids that want fairly good strength, without the weight gain of other diffs

only downside is open-diff or locked

fozz: if you are turbo, go straight for the F-series. you'll forget the few extra hundred bucks you spent fairly quickly

[Fozz]

kouki T-series is expensive ;) in my opinion the E-
fozz: if you are turbo, go straight for the F-series. you'll forget the few extra hundred bucks you spent fairly quickly

ive got an blacktop sr20det with a kouki disk to disk probs want last long oh well im looking more towards the g series anyway more availability

[hodge]

i allready got an E series mounted in and dont want to go threw the trouble of remounting an F series.
Does anyone know if i am i able to put F series center & axels into E sreies housing ?

[ae_mule]

i put the E series in as it was what came up at the time, also got equal lehgth 4 link cut in and an extra bar welded in my cage, the total drive in drive out swap cost $600NZD and drum E brakes are shitloads better than caliper.

Hodge, i higly doubt it

[Hen may possibly be a nut]

why would people bother upgrading to an e series when a kouki t series is the same axle spline?

The splines are not the same. They measure up the same, but do not fit each other.

Hen

[Fozz]

The splines are not the same. They measure up the same, but do not fit each other.

Hen

sorry bad wording but yer thats wat i meant same measurment

[FAST EDDIE]

i have a KAZIEN yr22 f series. it is aparently 4.3 and says its a spacia centre i wanna get a 4.1 centre or 3.9 what vehicle am i looking @

[70XIN]

YR21 tarago (with F-series) mainly runs 4.1 gears

[Simon-KE70]

whats wrong with the 4.3 eddie? would have thought that would go well with the SR and box.

i haver a 3.8 and need to go to a 4.1 at a minimum :(

[FAST EDDIE]

with the sr and im using a rb20 box, light car and 15 in rims the torque seems to be minimised, as far as we can see because of the little amounts of load on the engine. and the gears im using arnet seeing the engine working at its peak around mallala. so im gonna look at going to lower ratio so i can use more of 2nd and 3rd!

[FAST EDDIE]

YR21 tarago (with F-series) mainly runs 4.1 gears

is tere a code on the id plate that specifys f series diff?a nd how can i tell what ratio

[70XIN]

Yes Eddie, there should be a plate (on taragos the build plates are in weird places if i remember correctly)

You are looking for one that has the code F292 (F series, 4.1 ratio)

It's what i got my whole diff from, i have gone for a 4.3 with LSD for the time being but i'm using a different gearbox (W58). Hopefully i won't need to use the 4.1's, but they are there in case.

[FAST EDDIE]

cheers man yeah its an easy and cheap thing to change to try something diiferent and easy enough to change back

[sundee]

i have a KAZIEN yr22 f series. it is aparently 4.3 and says its a spacia centre i wanna get a 4.1 centre or 3.9 what vehicle am i looking @

might keep that in mind.. if u wanna sell the center, no time soon ;)

[FAST EDDIE]

will probs keep it for different tracks so i can adjust the diff ratio.

[3s-86]

Hey guys

Yr 21 E series and Yr 22 F series have different splines and different spline diameters
25 mm & 28 mm.
So you can't swap things over between them!
Total length of diff drum to drum is 1430 mm
So 20 mm longer than AE86 diff.

[Hen may possibly be a nut]

The diff I pulled from a YR22 (4Y-E, auto) had a 4.3 ratio.

[nichy]

what tailshafts do you use with 31 diffs? custom?

[70XIN]

^ unfortunately, i doubt there's anything to suit off-the-shelf so to speak. so yeah, custom