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Dish
26th August 2008, 09:42 AM
Hey guys,

My Check engine light has been coming on and off for the past 3-4? months. It doesn't run any different whatsoever, only comes on when it's under light load, then goes off when it's under full load.

Asked my mate (mechanic) to check it out with his snap-on scanner but couldn't get it to work.

Wanting to know if anyone has a list of codes, pins to bridge to attain said code etc..

Or if anyone knows wtf to do.

Cheers,
-Roy

Trev084
26th August 2008, 06:50 PM
Bridge the Te1 & E1 terminals for fault codes.

LIL BLU MAN
26th August 2008, 06:58 PM
used to happen 2 me sometimes, give the car a little bit of push and it came on, now it doesnt but before i turn over the ignition when its sitting on first turn over it sits on till engine is started, then dissappears. never had a problem though

Golberg
26th August 2008, 07:29 PM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (w84me @ Aug 26 2008, 05:58 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=580075)</div>
used to happen 2 me sometimes, give the car a little bit of push and it came on, now it doesnt but before i turn over the ignition when its sitting on first turn over it sits on till engine is started, then dissappears. never had a problem though[/b]
Its meant to stay on until the engine is started, so that isn't any problem.

johnny_08
27th August 2008, 11:22 PM
this happens to me aswell, pple have said the 02 sensor is faulty


heres a page to back that quote up: http://www.padandwheels.com/mr2/o2/o2.html

Dish
30th August 2008, 10:42 AM
Wouldn't suprise me actually. I got mine put back in and they joined the cable in about 4 places, because they had to extend it. Nothing but problems since. Question. Is there any correct way to lengthen an O2 sensor, using heatshrinkable inline joiners, or just don't do it? Cause where they welded it back in is like under the passenger floor/seat. So it's a fair whack longer.

ae71
30th August 2008, 02:02 PM
perhaps use one long piece to eliminate a few joins?

alwasy bind the joins fist then solder as the solder doesn't conduct as well as the copper of the wire. heatshrink will make the neatest job but quality electrical tape should also be fine.

Dish
31st August 2008, 10:30 AM
I have inline heatshrinkable joiners that I used to use at work. So I'm gonna re-do it today, see if it changes anything.

Dish
2nd September 2008, 07:05 PM
Went down to my local parts store and ordered a new bosch O2 sensor. Can't remember the exact part number. Will post it up when I pick it up. Cost me $105 due to it having to be posted from melbourne. $85 retail.

Talked to the guy he actually used to work for bosch and said under no circumstances should the cable from the sensor to the plug ever be cut as it fucks it out. I'm going to have to extend the loom part as my local exhaust shop welded the O2 in way too far down the exhaust and joined the cable. So now I'm up for more cash to get it working properly when I originally went to the exhaust joint to get it put in and work.

And the car fucks itself again thanks to the dizzy.

/end anger.

riceburner
6th September 2008, 11:44 PM
If its a 4age into a oz ae86 then id say its your speed sensor not hooked up.

Chrisso
9th September 2008, 05:38 PM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (FKN16v @ Sep 6 2008, 10:44 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=584772)</div>
If its a 4age into a oz ae86 then id say its your speed sensor not hooked up.[/b]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the speed sensor wire is connected to a reed switch/sensor on the gearbox? and feeds back to the ECU. I'm a little hazy on the exact link from ECU to engine check light - I would assume that the signal is also reliant on the operation of a number of engine sensors. In the oz ae86 what drives the engine check light?

Chris.

mikewestphoto
10th September 2008, 01:25 AM
I dunno if it's right but I think I got it off this forum.
[attachment=30721:speed_signal.jpg]

The reed switch is in the cluster.

4A-C cars don't have check engine lights.

Golberg
10th September 2008, 02:19 AM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Ken @ Sep 10 2008, 12:25 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=586049)</div>
I dunno if it's right but I think I got it off this forum.
[attachment=30721:speed_signal.jpg]

The reed switch is in the cluster.

4A-C cars don't have check engine lights.[/b]
As ken has shown, there is in fact a speed sensor within the ADM AE86 cluster from factory. Pretty simple to wire in also, just 2 wires.

Dish
10th September 2008, 10:25 AM
This doesn't explain it coming off an on depending on how I'm driving.

The speedo has fucked out(Needle doesn't move and k's don't count) and it has been coming on since then roughly. But when I boot it it goes away. Hence my thinking for the O2 sensor since it does nothing unless you're at a constant revs just cruising.

Chrisso
10th September 2008, 06:04 PM
Thanks Ken. I've chosen to ignore the speed signal on my build, infact, I think that wire is feeding something else now.

Dish - why don't you fix your speedo and see if that helps? My speedo didn't work for a while when I first got mine, but Ken points out no check engine light on ADMs, so I don't know if it's related.

Dish
10th September 2008, 08:03 PM
I'm pretty sure it's a matter of pulling the cluster out and taking it to an instrument place and leaving it there. Which if I get pulled over with no cluster, I don't think that's going to go down well. As said in my other theads, having my car off the road is a major problem as I have to travel around frequently and it's my only car/way.

Chrisso
11th September 2008, 11:47 AM
Have you taken your speedo cable out and checked that it's still in one piece. It's not uncommon for them to snap. That was the problem with mine. If your cable is in one piece I have a spare cluster which you can borrow or buy (I'm in brissy) while you have your looked at. If your cable's shagged it's probably at the elbow near the gearbox, and from memory the st141 has a similar attachment, but better made (search for thread on toymods).

Chris.

Dish
11th September 2008, 11:54 AM
The cable seems ok on the gearbox end. Still turns. Haven't checked the cluster end as I'm still trying to work out how the motherfucker comes out. Got other shit to worry about at the moment so this is the last of my troubles (Dizzy is fucked).

riceburner
14th September 2008, 08:02 PM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Dish @ Sep 10 2008, 09:25 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=586120)</div>
This doesn't explain it coming off an on depending on how I'm driving.[/b]

Its your speed sensor.

Learn how the ecu reads and uses the speed sensor and you will see why it comes on and off depending on your driving habits

Dish
15th September 2008, 09:16 AM
So because the speedo cable/counter shat itself. It's causing this to happen? Fair enough.

riceburner
18th September 2008, 08:09 PM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Dish @ Sep 15 2008, 08:16 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=588321)</div>
So because the speedo cable/counter shat itself. It's causing this to happen? Fair enough.[/b]


I dare say it was never hooked up properly. So it wouldnt matter if cluster works or not.

Nearly no one bothers with it since the ecu doesnt really need it.

Golberg
18th September 2008, 09:55 PM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (FKN16v @ Sep 18 2008, 07:09 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=589977)</div>
I dare say it was never hooked up properly. So it wouldnt matter if cluster works or not.

Nearly no one bothers with it since the ecu doesnt really need it.[/b]
Sad but true, and its even made super easy to put into an ADM AE86, there is a speed sensor there already. Not so lucky with the E7's though.

The ECU sets the rev limit lower if no speed sensor is connected too.

Dish
20th September 2008, 09:49 AM
Haven't had any problems with lower rev limit in mine. Stills revs to just under 8k.

So obviously this part was connected but when the cluster shat itself that did too, hence engne light. Hairy muff.

Golberg
20th September 2008, 10:30 PM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Dish @ Sep 20 2008, 08:49 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=590473)</div>
Haven't had any problems with lower rev limit in mine. Stills revs to just under 8k.

So obviously this part was connected but when the cluster shat itself that did too, hence engne light. Hairy muff.[/b]

Yep I'd say you're probably on the money there, if it did still red line at the proper rpm before the trouble then it sounds like it is wired properly. But obviously, non working speedo = no speed sensor reading.

Dish
20th September 2008, 11:41 PM
What suprised the fuck out of me this arvo. Getting onto the Highway heading southbound from Ormeau is a nice downhill sweeper which is the onramp. While hitting that pretty hard the speedo actually started working again. Counting k's etc. It then stopped again when I stopped somewhere else. According to my GPS and the rpm it was reading correctly too.