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AB-Ke70
23rd November 2011, 10:44 AM
hey guys, well long story short, mates next door neighbor welded my diff the other night, sure enough being so excited to finally be locked i chucked it in without checking quality of the welds. last night goin about 5-10 km around a corner, BANG! took it apart wen i got it home and the welds had broken. now im wondering for all you people on here with past experience, can this be re-welded with an ark properly this time?


http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/8/1/7/7/258950.jpg


the chunks that came out of my diff housing

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/8/1/7/7/258951.jpg

Sam-Q
23rd November 2011, 11:04 AM
wow nice bit of destruction there, sure it can be welder but won't be as strong. Use a better welder this time

Rice86
23rd November 2011, 11:13 AM
Lol is that the plate they used to weld and lock the diff with?

AB-Ke70
23rd November 2011, 11:13 AM
will do! was told to use a gased mig, but thinking of using an arc this time. just looks like the mig wasnt hot enough to hold. ill post up a pic a bit later with it welded back up.

assassin10000
23rd November 2011, 11:13 AM
Better welder. Add plates. Remove any slag.

Andrew

Jacobxxx
23rd November 2011, 11:14 AM
Took me 6 months to do that to my diff haha

AB-Ke70
23rd November 2011, 11:14 AM
yeep. industrial steel. was sooo thick, guy said it would hold heaps. BS! thing broke in a matter of days lol.

ke_70
23rd November 2011, 12:57 PM
wow!


get the mig as hot as you can and just melt the shit out of it!
you can't even see my spider gears and more, just keep pumping weld on it.

is there any damage to the CW+P?

haveaparty
23rd November 2011, 03:40 PM
yeah dont worry bout plates, just jack the welder up as hot as it will go and fill each spider gear hole to the brim. and use a mig, arc welders are only good for farm work

ke_70
23rd November 2011, 04:56 PM
arc welders are fine, but you'll get slag and spatter everywhere that has to be 100% cleaned out.

i usually stuff wet rags in the spline holes also, nothing worse than spatter in there.

slide86
23rd November 2011, 05:17 PM
whats the story with putting the centre in the oven on high for 15 mins to heat it in prep for welding? ive heard several different people doing this.........

ke_70
23rd November 2011, 08:16 PM
it would help slightly. but not really needed.
just fill it up like this
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/2/2/1/258979.jpg

macca1590
23rd November 2011, 08:50 PM
sexy ^

my stick welded f series in my corona has lasted near on 10000km total and two 1200 return km drives to brisbane and a fair amount of abuse and axel tramp in between, i made sure i filled it to the brim and flushed it out with diesel, then changed the oil like 4 times in the first 1000km even then it still had some slag on the magnetic plug........

assassin10000
24th November 2011, 11:57 AM
I remove the typically remove the ring gear and pre-heat the assembly with a torch to until the spider gears are 700+ degrees (start to 'blue'). Then use a rolled up piece of 'wax' type paper stuffed into the splined spider gears to prevent slag sticking to the splines.


Andrew

Anticeptik
24th November 2011, 01:24 PM
Judging by the photo
a: there wasnt enough weld/penetration
b: alot of splatter.

Cleanlyness and preperation is key to a good weld.

Preheating the diff centre will definatly help, pre heating your work makes a huge differnence.
But honestly, i would not put a diff centre in my oven, i cook with that shit man.
All i would honetsly do, basicly almost max your wleder out ( single phase i pressume) with the right wire feed, you should be able to hear when it is welding nicely. and just lay bead after bead.

If you cant weld, weld alot

Anticeptik
24th November 2011, 01:26 PM
I probably wouldnt arc it, for the sheer fact of how long it would take a inexperience welder to fill gaps with it.
that also being said removale of slag in hard to reach spots is a ####

stahlz_ae86
24th November 2011, 09:50 PM
PM me if you want I'll do it with the mig at work. (Heidelberg area)

It's a CIG 220.

--Redwork--
24th November 2011, 10:38 PM
LOL..

You ALL do it wrong...

The only part you need to weld is the 2 side gears to the casing.. I usually do 2 or 3 runs as it takes a while to fill it out enough to satisfy me. But I have done HEAPS of diffs this way, and NONE on them have EVER broken.. and most of them were in 400+ hp drift and drag cars.. there is absolutly NO NEED to go filling the center with weld and bolts and bits of plate and random peices of shit..

It a lot easier on nissan diff as you can disasemble the center into 2 halves and weld each gear almost the entire way around.

Hen may possibly be a nut
24th November 2011, 10:47 PM
^^ Has some truth. Welding the side gears to the housing is one of the most important things (which hasn't been done in the photo further up). Welding the spider gears together and spider gears to the housing also helps, but to a lesser degree. Good penetration is a must, and pre-heating with an oxy torch improved my results.

But to answer the original question, yes, just reweld it properly and you should be set.

--Redwork--
25th November 2011, 07:02 PM
On the 2 peice centers, I don't even refit the other gears as they're no longer needed... They're just added weight