What's the best aftermarket ecu-4agte

[john84ie]

I'm in the middle of a 4agte conversion on a ke70 panno van.. Looking to upgrade ecu, what should I go for??
What's the best value for money ecu?tech support? Ect? Thanks

[tmas_the]

The only choices I got were Haltech Platinum (Sport?) 1000, and uh... Haltech Platinum (Sport?) 1000. Quite expensive, but I enjoy it, having swapped out a Wolf3D.

I always find with ECU's though that you have to work out who tunes what first, since there's no point buying a super awesome computer that nobody can operate. Nobody does anything other than Haltech's in WA afaik, and on my 4agte I made a 100hp gain over my Wolf3D and heaps more response. Cost was roughly $3.5k all done, and an extra $600 to run a set of coilpacks instead of the dizzy.

[Matt]

Haltech sports 500 will suit most cases... Sports 1000 has extra inputs and more tunability. Great bang for buck haltechs.

Also adaptronics aren't bad value either. Kaizen garage sell them.

[john84ie]

3.5k?!fuck that!lol

was hoping to have ecu bought and tuned for around $1500,am i dreaming?

[Matt]

If you install yourself then it is possible to get close to that... Your best bet is to chat to who will be tuning it and work out a deal with them.

Ideally the best ecu is the one your tuner is most comfortable with, that is within reason of course.

[dying3k]

i find that funny as you can get a haltec installed with a tidy as loom(all in black braid) installed for like 1700-1900 in sydney, and he will put a basic tune on

not hijacking, but whats peoples veiw on autronic's???

[Matt]

exy

[plohl]

I hear motec's have dropped in price :)

Seriously though, speak to a bunch of tuners first about what you want out of the car/engine and pick one. Buy what they recommend. The extra money you may spend on an ecu wont be as much you are charged if you buy an ecu and then take it to someone with little experience in that brand and get them to tune it. If you're running ps, AC, IAC etc, i would look into something fairly basic that can be wired in parrellel with the stock ecu.

[tmas_the]

i find that funny as you can get a haltec installed with a tidy as loom(all in black braid) installed for like 1700-1900 in sydney, and he will put a basic tune on

not hijacking, but whats peoples veiw on autronic's???


Well keep in mind that purchase price alone for a Platinum 1000 is ~$1600-1700. I highly doubt that somebody would be willing to fit and tune an ecu for 0-$200, so I'd be at least a little curious at to who told you that level of bollocks (assuming you're replying to my post about price).

[Skylar]

They're probably quoting on the sprint 500 which is like barely a grand.

Out of curiosity, where did you get yours done Tim? Why do you think you can only get Haltecs tuned in Perth? A lotta guys do stuff other than haltecs.

[tmas_the]

They're probably quoting on the sprint 500 which is like barely a grand.

Out of curiosity, where did you get yours done Tim? Why do you think you can only get Haltecs tuned in Perth? A lotta guys do stuff other than haltecs.

I got mine done at WTF Auto man. I didn't call an enormous amount of workshops, but the ones I did call only seemed interested in Haltech units. I know Motec and Autronic are popular 4 cylinder standalone systems, but I've recently crossed to Toyota from the dark side (lots of Nissans) and the only people I really wanted to do my ecu all recommended the same Haltech unit. Reading my first post I realize I was talking bollocks sorry, what I guess I was trying to get across is that the only recommendations I got were all for Haltechs, but I didn't get that over very well at all heh.

Out of curiosity, what do other people run in WA?

[Nikkojoe]

Wouldn't be suprised that wtf said haltech. I would have gone a sprint500 too, but at the time I wasn't convinced the Compatibility issues with toyota cas on older models were ironed out on the new series (apparently playing with the cas fixes it, but a recent tune on a 20v I know of seems to still show some issues of this).

I've got an adaptronic, pretty sure hyperdrive do them too. A lot of people can tune them too, including wtf.

[tmas_the]

Wouldn't be suprised that wtf said haltech. I would have gone a sprint500 too, but at the time I wasn't convinced the Compatibility issues with toyota cas on older models were ironed out on the new series (apparently playing with the cas fixes it, but a recent tune on a 20v I know of seems to still show some issues of this).

I've got an adaptronic, pretty sure hyperdrive do them too. A lot of people can tune them too, including wtf.

Oh, is there something funny about WTF and Haltechs? I think WTF did a reasonable amount of fiddling with my cas while they were at it all, but I wouldn't know how much that involved tbh.

[Nikkojoe]

not WTF and Haltechs, just the haltechs with a 4a cas (as said mainly older ecu's, not sure about the new platinium range). If it's working fine for you then I wouldn't worry about it.

[Skylar]

It's like the megasquirt guys id'ed the problem years ago and fixed it as soon as someone ran a megasquirt with dual wheels.

Adaptronic will, for some reason, support all 3 CAS signals just fine. If there's a problem with the ECU, you send it back and they'll fix it.

Haltech, if what you say is right, still haven't fixed the known issue from previous models. But maybe if they'd wire it like the manual says to, they wouldn't have problems.

As for other choices here, there's mainly adaptronic, vipec/link, PFC for Nissans mainly, motec and autronic are still around but the workshops aren't really pushing it. Tim Slako's usually got an ad for Motec stuff in Perth Street Car. Coupla workshops do EMS and microtechs but why would you bother these days.

[Slimer86]

MoTeC M48 and m4 have been discontinued as far as I know, well saw that recently on a website.

M400 if you want reliability, tunability. MoTeC's run like clockwork (same as autronic) where they own't make funny adjustments, lose load point information etc.
Not the cheapest option, but I have seen them go on forums for ~$1500 used.

[44GTE]

Hi

I use a Adaptronic on my 4AGTE .

Supplied , fitted and tuned by Anthony Kaizen Garage.

I'm sure he could supply you a map very close to the mark for this engine setup which would also limit the tuning time on the dyno.

cheers

[stefan]

seeing as I'm in the middle of finding out the same for my other car here's what I've found,
starting from the top
Autronic and motec are awesome but expensive as hell cheapest on both acounts with a loom and sensors is $3000 there abouts.
You can get the ecus cheaper but keep in mind that is all you get lol no wiring no nothing.
Haltech are probably the best value for money in my opinion if you want tunability, my brother just got his whole set up which has ps1000 long loom kit, all sensors, 4 bar map sensor, ls1 coiuld etc set him back 2800ish for an fj20.
I'm a fan of microtechs for a basic build, if your gonna tune it once and not touch it afterwards I'd just do that, they're cheap and they work around $1500ish.
As for autronics, don't know much about them, but have heard good feed back.
Like mentioned before, you can save a lot of money if you wire it yourself, they're not hard to do realy.
Don't konw if it helps but yeah.

[dying3k]

nah not a platinum, sorry, think its the sport 500??

[--Redwork--]

After going to Haltech platinum sport 1000 I can say they are worth every cent.!!

[filfilfil]

I've heard good things about vipec v88 and v44, like "much easier to tune and don't need touching again" from tuners that happily do autronic, haltech, motec etc...wa based too?

[Matt]

Vipec are good, but exy....

[Sprinter Freak]

Digging this thread back up, looking at a haltech sprint 500 to run my ITB'd and cammed 4age and eventually maybe run a turbo set up with LS1 coils and a Gt2860rs. Does anyone know if Haltech has fixed up there toyota CAS problems?

[Mirko]

As far as I know yes

[Skylar]

There is no problem if you wired the old e8's correctly as per manual. It's just that people were like, yeah, nissan works like this, toyota should be fine without understanding what they're doing. Plus 1/2jz/1uz all run crank speed detection at the crank and not at the cam which reduce the 24 tooth wheel at the cam to 12 teeth at the crank which, if my memory serves me correctly, results in less of an EMF generated with each tooth due to longer times between teeth. Oh and separate sensors on those motors means they don't have that problem anyway. (assuming they run separate wiring all the way back to the ECU).

Read and wire the motor as per manual and you'll be fine on an older one.

To answer your question, I don't know but I would think they would have fixed it by now as I haven't heard of anyone having problems. It's an easy fix anyway but it requires a few hours to do.