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View Full Version : 20v conversion in ae86



deanoo
7th June 2009, 09:14 PM
i am thinking about doing a 4age 20v conversion in my ae86 instead of a 4age 16v.

i want to know what is invovled in doing a 20v conversion into a ae86

i have searched the forums and i have found that you have to make up the cooling system and hit the firewall for the dizzy to fit. i dont want to hit the firewal, i have seen members cars running coilpacks what do i need to run coilpacks ie: what kind of coils, do i need a ecu etc....
also about the loom what needs to be done?

so i just need some helpfull information regarding a 20v conversion for a ae86

Dean 0402 632 851

Jonny Rochester
7th June 2009, 09:47 PM
Half this forum is about doing what you want to do. Just sit back and read through all the other tech questions, and come back with your own queations in about a week.

Sam-Q
8th June 2009, 01:54 AM
as Jonny said, search for it and also read this:

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/faq/index.php/BY_ENGINE/4age/20vRWD

I can provide a cooling system conversion if your interested

350hp4agte
8th June 2009, 11:41 AM
RWD water relocation kit
RWD plenum
ECU with an egnitor box + 4 coils usually suplied by the ecu company
RWD extracters
if you have an adm sprinter ya need a surge tank and fuel system low volume pump and a high volume pump
somone to wire up the ecu and tune the car

there is more but its a start

Delazy
8th June 2009, 12:42 PM
lol @ the number of threads made for this lately...geez...is it really that hard to read and research...information is all over the internet...

deanoo
8th June 2009, 01:37 PM
well if you know where all the information is do you mind posting it up???

i have searched and havnt found want i am after so this is why i made this topic...

brad
8th June 2009, 01:47 PM
i did a 20v conversion in my car, i wouldnt do another one its just a waste of money.
go 16v small port, put cams and aftermarket ecu and it will go better than a standard 20v for the same money and alot less messing aroud.

Golberg
8th June 2009, 03:34 PM
i did a 20v conversion in my car, i wouldnt do another one its just a waste of money.
go 16v small port, put cams and aftermarket ecu and it will go better than a standard 20v for the same money and alot less messing aroud.

Cha ching.

I totally agree, IMHO converting a FWD 16v to RWD setup is a pain. 20v to RWD is a whole nother level, and there is still greater aftermarket support for the 16v.

Sam-Q
8th June 2009, 09:34 PM
i did a 20v conversion in my car, i wouldnt do another one its just a waste of money.
go 16v small port, put cams and aftermarket ecu and it will go better than a standard 20v for the same money and alot less messing aroud.

I have yet to have another 16V even come close to mine and mines almost stock. I have had someone who had a 16v with cams on this forum also confirm I had more power everywhere. 20V's need an aftermarket ecu though or else its just a waste

H8CHIR6KU
8th June 2009, 09:37 PM
i thought it was fairly straight forward to convert the 20v to rwd. maybe just a little expensive but you could prob do it a whole lot cheaper than how i did mine. come to think of it i prob could have done it for half the cost if i had not been so picky.

GEMTA22
8th June 2009, 09:55 PM
Who says you need a surge tank for a 20v into a adm sprinter ?
Im sure ive seen guys just running a big internal fuel pump.

Currently running a bigport na with no surge tank, and im sure if i was to convert to 20v i could use the same fuel setup
or just a increase in fuel pump size which costs under a $100.

People commonly run the microtech lt10s with coils and x4 inginitor box.
With a tune and installation your looking at 2k for the ecu.

Delazy
8th June 2009, 10:00 PM
i thought it was fairly straight forward to convert the 20v to rwd. maybe just a little expensive but you could prob do it a whole lot cheaper than how i did mine. come to think of it i prob could have done it for half the cost if i had not been so picky.

yeh i agree dude...

could have done it for half the cost...but not without it being as neat or without spending alot of time fucking around fabricating parts...

i :heart: rs chita

Sam-Q
8th June 2009, 10:05 PM
what parts would you really need to fabricate? I thought you could buy just about everything now if you use an aftermarket ecu. I think you could get away without any fabrication.

BTW the rs chita kit is neat but I don't like how you have to do mods to make it fit, theres just no need and it aint cheap.

LittleRedSpirit
8th June 2009, 10:15 PM
i did a 20v conversion in my car, i wouldnt do another one its just a waste of money.
go 16v small port, put cams and aftermarket ecu and it will go better than a standard 20v for the same money and alot less messing aroud.

I wholeheartedly disagree. A smallport with big cams will need an aftermarket ecu and loom to suit, a nice tune, and not to mention the cost of setting up the head to suit the cams. You will need to cut and shut a manifold, which is about as much mucking around as sourcing the parts for a rwd 20v cooling system. There is no way doing cams in a head is less mucking around than a 20v install. If you know what to do, its quite straight forward.

The only really expensive part about fitting a 20valve is the ecu, and you are saying that you should buy this to run a 16v? Then work the 16v to make it better than a 20v? You could do that and you will still have no itbs, a heavier flywheel, no vvt etc etc.

The way i see it:
Smallport - approx 1000 bucks for a nice one
Silvertop - approx 800 bucks for a nice one
Loom - approx 500 for either motor
ECU - approx 1000 for something worth having
Cams for smallport - at least $800 to buy and another $500 to setup and shim. Head usually needs some reco type work at this time too. Adjustable cam gears, add $300.
Tune - $300-400 bucks for a good one.
All the physical mounting is the same.
The 20v needs about $280 worth of aftermarket cooling parts to make it work. It also needs a $70 dizzy deletion plate.
The smallport needs rwd cooling bits purchased at great expense, as the genuine stuff is very expensive compared to what an aftermarket 20v rwd cooling system costs.
Smallport needs a cut and shut manifold - approx $150.


Dont mean to be rude, I just think its bad info. Its quite a common misconception.

Sam-Q
8th June 2009, 10:21 PM
I completely agree with the above. There used to be a stigma of the unknown when I first started about a 20v install but with everything thats available today its not only common knowledge but also pretty simple and you can use the off the shelf parts that are proven to work. There is masses of resources for both conversions and no fabrication should need to be done anymore for a 20v, which unlike the 16V needs a cut and shut manifold.

GEMTA22
8th June 2009, 10:25 PM
Did you say $800 for a 20v silvertop motor ? Where abouts from ?
Thats a bargain and why is it cheaper than a smallport motor ?

I agree with ya littleredspirit what seems to be cheaper option ends up being more costlier.

Sam-Q
8th June 2009, 10:30 PM
I bought my silvertop bare for $350, many others have bought theirs for $600, keep your eyes peeled on multiple forums and ebay

H8CHIR6KU
8th June 2009, 10:39 PM
yeah i bought my silver top halfcut for $910. that was with all panels, headlights and even the japanese cat. only done 80k too. when i stripped the motor the cross hatching hadnt even begun to wear away.

about the hardest thing to do is the wiring.
at the end of the day a smallport with cams will be close but if you wanna go n/a where do you go next? but a silvertop can be built on

GEMTA22
8th June 2009, 10:45 PM
Damn thats a good price, be on the look out.
My kaaz 2 way lsd centre cost more than that.

So if i go turbo and blow the motor up, its just another $800 and turn the boost down lol.

Sam-Q
8th June 2009, 10:48 PM
well actually cheaper because you could sell off the throttles to someone else as you wouldnt need to replace them.

Sam-Q
9th June 2009, 09:11 AM
I found this this morning

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250440084809&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:AU:1123

LittleRedSpirit
9th June 2009, 09:42 AM
Exactly.

My philosophy with import motors has been enjoy it while it lasts then part the slut out. This way they pay you back most of the money and you can go get another one, once the whole car is setup to accept it its easy.

Dont stress about purchasing an ecu. If you buy a good one like adaptronic etc, it will be with you for a long time on whatever car you want to fit it to.