20v ke HEATER system !!! road worthy ..

[ke2483]

hay im doing a 20v conversion in my ke70 and just wondering if i dont have the heater option when i go to get it road worthy will they fail me on that ???


Has anyone passed with out a heater ??

cheers

[Sam-Q]

wouldn't they fail you on having a 20V alone?

how about reconnecting the heater? I should be able to help you with that

[ke2483]

pretty sure you can have 20v in ke's if you get mod plated and where the heater pipes normal come out of the fire wall the dumb fuck i got the car off has cut them off at the wall so i dont know how i would reconnect them with out doing the whole heater system !!

[meadan]

Theres no such thing as a mod plate in NSW. You can get an engineers certificate though.

To pass an engineers certificate you will need a windscreen demister of some sort.

[ke2483]

im in QLD but and its mod plate !

[the witzl]

why do so many retards cut the freaken heater core outlets off at the firewall!?!?!?!
Probably the same retard who did the 20V conversion into my KE70 (which i ripped out post haste - was not pretty).... it had the heater core bypassed and the outlets torn off.

Now i have to pull the dash out to replace the heater core.


Oh - and YES, you need the heater for roadworthy. You *can* use electric heater/demister units, but they are teh suck and not exactly cheap.



As for registration/roadworthy with the 20V..... well this is where things get a question mark over them.

In NSW, VSI-06 states that you can install an engine up to 15% greater capacity than the maximum size engine available for the vehicle, so long as you retain all ADR relevant emissions equipment.
See here - http://www.rta.nsw.gov.au/registration/downloads/vsi/vsi_06_-_guidelines_for_light_vehicle_modifications_nov_20 07.pdf

So, in a KE70, the largest size engine available was the 1.6L 4AC available in the AE71 variant of the same vehicle - this means you can theoretically increase to a 1.84L engine.


Given that the 20V is the same block as the 4ac, and there are no structural modifications (literally bolts in on factory equipment), then IN THEORY you can "user certify" the engine swap.
However, you HAVE to retain the following parts from the OEM 20V engine
- exhaust system (ie, mufflers, etc)
- catalytic converters
- emissions gear
- ECU
- etc


Where things get iffy is the fuel delivery. In cabin/boot surge tanks would require engineering signoff, as they are a major modification AFAIK.
You would bascially have to "replicate" a true EFI fuel system as per the vehicle the 20V came from (ae101 corolla).... you could do this by fitting a JDM efi AE8 fuel tank, and ensuring you have a correct breather and charcoal canister system fitted and functioning.


Once you do all this, you then need to get an AUVIS station (ie, mechanic who does blue slips), to do a blue slip with engine number and capacity change, so that the correct engine details are shown on your rego papers.

Now - the REALLY hard part is convincing Mr Police its all good when he pulls you over.

[Stain]

If they have just cut the heater pipes short so they come out straight instead of bending up its still easy to reconnect. Just go down to supercheap and look thru their hose bin until you find something that will fit.

[willa]

I know of guys who used to do this to get around it. Buy two 12v hair dryers (caravan spec), make up some shrouds that go from round to long and thin, and wire them to a switch. Easier said than done though, and CLEARLY no where near oem spec

[Sam-Q]

do you have one of my 20v cooling kits? if so I can modify your rear plate to have the necessary water outlet so you can hook it all back up

[ke2483]

nar sam i havent got one off you yet i was waiting to find out if i need the heater one or not i need to get abit off you like (trumpets,spiggot,cooling system and dizzy recon)

[maxhag]

I know of guys who used to do this to get around it. Buy two 12v hair dryers (caravan spec), make up some shrouds that go from round to long and thin, and wire them to a switch. Easier said than done though, and CLEARLY no where near oem spec

I plan on doing something 'simular' to this...... It's been done many times before :)