4agze wont spark..

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Hey so after trying to start my motor today I realized it is not sparking. I haver wired in my fuel pumps via Cor and that's all I am hearing then the motor is cranking. The ecu is getting power, and the coil pack plugs loom side are getting some sort of reading, ( checking with multimeter ) motor is afm btw. I'm not sure what to check or how to check. I have wired it as per diagram I have and all the earths are fine.

Is there any way to check to see if I have a dud coil pack or ecu.

Any suggestions on what to try before I have to strip the loom back??

Not sure if I am getting injector pulse either.. As I don't know how to check that..

Any tips will be awsome, the sooner I can fire this up the better!!

Thanks..

[ae86 slide]

I don't have a lot to offer in the form of advice, except that you will hear the injectors pulsing (ticking), put a big screw driver on each of the injectors, put your ear on the handle of the screw driver and listen for the tick while cranking.

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Yeah sweet cheers will give that a go tomorrow.
i also read that the igniter gets earthed when it is bolted down, I didn't know this so I might make it earth properly and try again. This might me half my problem.

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Ok I was just thinking about this and thought that shouldn't I be hearing my fuel pumps when I turn the key to on? I can only hear them when cranking... Is this right??

Makes sence for them to prime before I turn the key to start

[djscheppy]

with my gze you only hear the fuel pump whine when you hit crank.

[Skylar]

haha, makes sense to prime before turning the key but it doesn't matter that much in the case of a single intank pump. E90 BMWs, really needs to prime but who actually turns the key to ON, waits 'til the pump primes before kickin' it over? Probably nobody. and that's why they kill fuel pumps on the reg.

Anyway, do you have 12v at the black/orange wire of the coils?
do you have 12v at one of the injector wires?
do you have 12v at the ecu?
do you have a constant 12v feed at the ecu?

start there and report back.

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Thanks for that I will check all that al let you know how I go..

As for the last 2..what do u mean by "constant 12v feed at the ecu" and "12v at the ecu". ?

I put the multi meter in and the back of the ecu into the b+ b+1 and the other probe to earth and it gave me 12v is this what u are referring to?

[Skylar]

Yes.

Those two wires are black/red yeah? They get 12v when the key is in the on position.

The white wire will have 12v regardless of what the key is doing. That's why it's called constant.

Yeah, maybe I shouldabeen more clear. The first three will get power wth the key. The last one will have power all the time.

Also you need 12v at the black/orange wire at the ignitor. Ignitor needs a solid ground as well.

Do you have the injector resistor pack plugged in?

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Yeah the resistor thing is plugged in.

Thanks for you help, will have a go when I get home.

Wich pin in the ecu gets the constant 12v? You said white wire?

[Skylar]

Never wired a gze so don't know. On a bigport it's right next to the black red wire or real close to it.

Look it up on club4ag. all the pinouts are there.

[Nikkojoe]

Never wired a gze so don't know. On a bigport it's right next to the black red wire or real close to it.

Look it up on club4ag. all the pinouts are there.

Pin outs are not there for an ae92 afm bigport.

Only thing somewhat comparable is the aw11 4agze afm wiring....

[Skylar]

oh dang, didn't even see it was an afm engine.

Either way, white wire should be near black/red, no? Or crack the case and read off the board? or is it an unmarked board?

[Skylar]

http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?id=95364

Knew I was wrong. It's red/white. I know they cahnged it after ae86 but never needed to know what to. I was thinking it was white/red but mind kept telling me that's charge light wire on nissan alternators.

[jdm86gtz]

5 volts on the yellow wire for the TPS is an indication that the ecu is powered up and on.
With the COR the pump only primes when you crank then in your case once the AFM flapper opens far enough it will keep the COR on.
You can test this by pushing the flapper with the ignition turned on and the pump will start.
On the igniter the 2 pin connector has both coil trigger/ground wires (should be black for 1 & 4 and black/blue for 2 & 3) so with the ignition on they should be live.

I have PDF files of the AE92 AFM wiring diagram that I came across somewhere. PM me you email and I'll send them on.

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Yeah I had a feeling the red/white wire the the constant. I will give all this ago on the weekend and hopefully it all works.

Bryan you have p.m

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Got the diagrams.. Thanks heaps I might put it in the tech section, as it seems to be hard to come by!

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Ok so had a bit of a play today and I'm lost on what to try,

i have 12v at ecu and also constant 12v
have 5v from yellow tps wire
Have 12v from igniter
12v at injectors aswell


i earthed the igniter and now I am getting a good strong spark across all 4 plugs.
according to my gauge I have around 35ish psi fuel pressure.
when I took the plugs out they had heaps of fuel on them so that tells me the injectors are opening.

Motor still won't turn over!!

when the motor is at tdc all the marks line up on cam gears and crank pulley.

I have a feeling I wired the afm wrong.. Will this cause the motor not to start??

any thing else I can try?

Cheers

[Matt]

Send me a pm and i'll drop by tomorrow night after work for a quick look. Does it backfire and carry on?

Is your dizzy / cas timing right?

Fuel + spark usually = running engine.

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Notch on crank lines up with the mark on the block/oil pump
cam gears marks line up on the backing plate.
can see the dimple through the oil filler hole, there is also the same on the exhaust cam
took cas out and line up the gear and carefully put it back in

Thats how i set my timming.. Is that correct?

motor just cranks, doesn't try to fire. Have a strong fuel smell comming out the dump pipe ( no exhaust ATM)

cheers

[Skylar]

It's turbo? Fuel pressure is good.

Cam timing + ignition timing is set right.

Do you have the right coil sparking? IIRC the coils had the same plug and you could get them mixed up. Put a timing gun on it and see where number 1 is sparking. This is dumb but you have 1 and 4 on the same coil, 2 and 3 on the other one?



Fuel + spark usually + air = running engine.

You got a rag(s) in your cooler pipe(s)?

Nissans will run without AFM but a GZE will not. The fuel pump won't keep running after the engine starts up. It might idle without an AFM if you have the fuel pump bridged but it certainly won't keep running after the key goes from the start position back to the on position.

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All have to check my afm wiring and fix it Im pretty sure I got 2 wires mixed up!

No there's no rags in the cooler pipe. I'll check the coil leads pretty sure they are correct.

has to be a timming issue I think.

[Nikkojoe]

Notch on crank lines up with the mark on the block/oil pump
cam gears marks line up on the backing plate.
can see the dimple through the oil filler hole, there is also the same on the exhaust cam
took cas out and line up the gear and carefully put it back in

Thats how i set my timming.. Is that correct?

motor just cranks, doesn't try to fire. Have a strong fuel smell comming out the dump pipe ( no exhaust ATM)

cheers

I can see intake cam is setup right, but exhaust I think is wrong. Make sure the cam lock pins are as follows:

Intake at 12 oclock
Exhaust at 4/5 oclock

You may need to remove the cam gear bolt to see the pin position behind the washer. You can check compression if you are lazy ;)

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Yes u were right had a look this arvo and the exhaust cam was out 180, which also meant the cas was out 180!!
im gonna fix that and also redo my afm wiwiring hopefully it will kick over. If it does I should bridge terminals on the diog box an set timming correctly with a timming gun.

Any other suggestions if it doesn't.. So keen to get this going

[Nikkojoe]

I think it will if that was the case. If it had spark and fuel, it had no compression cause the cam timing was out. Fix that up and your car will run :)

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Ok so checked the timing.. All fine. Fixed afm wiring.. All good. With a multimeter I have 12v at each injector plug. When I crank the car doesn't want to start, than if I unplug any injector plug the car coughs and splatters and wants to start, plug the injector back in and than I does nothing again!! Wtf. So I most probably have the injectors wiring wrong somewhere. Can any one tell me the wiring configuration on the injector resistor thing.
The way I have it..
One side of injectors go to the ecu pins 10 and 20 I think, than on the other side of them go to the resister thing, than out of the resistor black orange, goes somewhere into the coil igniter config. Only had a quick look that's what it seemed to look like.

Doing my head in!

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Ok all good. Motor starts and runs fine so far l. Turned out I have a bit if the wiring to the injectors wrong. All fixed.

[Skylar]

Good stuff man.