G Series & F Series Diff Disc Brake Solutions [Archive]

Skid_KE70

16th October 2012, 04:19 PM

Hi Guys

Just thought id see what peoples thoughts are about some dic brake solutions for G series (8") and F series (7.5") Disc brake kits.

As it currently sits i have made a few G series brake kits, these kits use two sets of R33 GTST Calipers and r33 GTST Rotors, it includes a Laser Cut & Plated Backing Plate (8mm) Caliper Bolts & Washers and 8x 20mm machined spacers to offset the calipers.

my question is, are people mainly interested in G Series, Or are they interested in a solution for the F series also?

Would people be interested in this kit if it sat around the $249-$299 mark (not including rotors or calipers)
i can also offer most brands of rotors at great prices that would be re drilled to 4x114.4

Ill post some pictures in a few days.

Thoughts???

Kind Regards

LittleRedSpirit

16th October 2012, 05:31 PM

Well its 4 stud for starters, so Id perfer a kit for my f series that uses an unmodified vented rotor, but not too great a diameter, maybe as big as a stock ae86 front rotor. Then its kind of in proportion with the upgraded fronts people tend to use that fit inside their 15s.

Also, if the outer surface of the caliper sticks out past the axle face with the rotor on top then they would mean most peoples wheels wouldn't fit, like some rx7 front caliper setups can.

Im definitely in the market for something, and there isnt much around for the mx13 diff.

I was just considering buying a wilwood rear caliper with a handbrake function and trying to find a floating vented rotor that fits over the axle plate and has the right stud pattern already, then adapt it.

What handbrake system does the nissan caliper use?

How similar hydraulically is the caliper? What master cylinder bore does it require to feel right?

Do you have pictures?

Skylar

16th October 2012, 10:01 PM

Do you retain the drum handbrake of the r33? It doesn't sound like you do, and that would make the system not legal for road use? I'm interested to see what your stuff is like and if you can retain a mechanical handbrake I might be up for the set up.

I've got s13 rear disc and caliper on my f-series but I'm thinking of doing twin rear calipers but still maintaining a mechanical hand brake. I want a twin piston on the rear for handbrake and probably a twin for the foot brake too with a built in handbrake mechanism but I haven't come across a caliper with those requirements. Otherwise I gotta do a single for footbrake or adapt a drum handbrake.

I can currently bolt on rear r33 caliper and disc but I haven't come up with a plan on how to tackle the drum handbrake. I can easily change my cad file to take twin calipers by cutting it in half and mirroring it but yeah... that drum handbrake. I've got the full set up since I bought it all to put on the silvia, just gotta find the time to try and adapt the two.

I'll figure it out one day, if you don't beat me to it. :)

Skylar

16th October 2012, 10:12 PM

Matt,
Skyline and Z32 are drum handbrake, twin piston caliper on the rear, if they're turbo. NA r33 is 4 stud and I think has a single piston not sure about the handbrake mechanism on them. They are mostly BM44 which is 15/16" master.

Silvia is BM38 which is 7/8". Silvia has single piston rear with built in handbrake.

SW20 is vented rotor and has inbuilt handbrake. It's an option if you want vented rear with builtin handbrake.

Oh, and I doubt you'll find a caliper with a hat big enough to fit over the drum mounting surfacing. Me and my mate both got our axle faces trimmed down to fit inside disc. I never seen an MX13 diff so maybe they have a much smaller disc mounting surface. Mate was smart and made his concentric with ID of disc hat so it located on that.

Skylar

16th October 2012, 10:26 PM

Found this (http://www.wilwood.com/Calipers/CaliperList.aspx?subname=Forged%20Superlite%20Inte rnal) while digging around.

Gotta upgrade the front to at least 4 pots before putting those on the rear. It'll look stupid otherwise.

jakel

17th October 2012, 01:37 AM

There is a bracket for G series to use MA70 rear brakes which have same rotor diameter at my wilwood fronts just a bit thinner vented rotor and uses a single piston caliper, and the MA70 internal drum brakes if you want them as well, the bracket was $60 delivered.

Skid_KE70

17th October 2012, 09:10 AM

I have been using this setup with the 4pot RX7 front brakes; they seem to be matched very well.
No I’m not using any part of the mechanical handbrake, only the hydraulic handbrake lock.

Some handy info there cheers Skylar, as far as being road legal, 90% of these aftermarket parts are not road legal, and I’m finding that most people interested in a big brake option are only using these cars on the track anyway.
Most people using these size brakes find the R32 BM44 Master Cylinder which has a 23.81mm bore size and works very well.

previously i had been using ST141 Corona brakes with the hydraulic handbrake, i must say the R33 brakes have so much more feel, and the handbrake works every time with very little effort.
The thicker vented rotor definitely helps if you are doing a few laps, most solid or thinner rotors will experience brake fade or brake rotor warp after little time.

I’ll look into some options as far as keeping a cable handbrake if that’s what people are after?

i was at the fabricators earlier and it looks like i can do these kits cheaper than expected. ill put one together and throw some pics and info up soon.

Keep the questions/info coming

LittleRedSpirit

17th October 2012, 11:06 AM

I’ll look into some options as far as keeping a hydraulic handbrake if that’s what people are after?

i was at the fabricators earlier and it looks like i can do these kits cheaper than expected. ill put one together and throw some pics and info up soon.

Keep the questions/info coming

Did you mean look into options for a cable handbrake? OR Hydraulic, cause I thought you had hydraulic capabilities with the dual caliper system?

Staying tuned...

Ill measure an axle end plate today from the mx13 diff if that helps.

Skid_KE70

17th October 2012, 11:35 AM

Woops, yes Cable operated handbrake... probably the drum type in the disc :)
yes that would help thank you

sundee

17th October 2012, 12:03 PM

The only problem with this conversion is its a track only setup... if using nissan R series callipers you have no cabled hand break.

Skylar

17th October 2012, 11:37 PM

That's what we're trying to resolve by having this discussion bro.

When I get the time I'm gonna have a look fir a suitable disc to go with a skyline (or evo) rear caliper that I can also use that wilwood caliper with. Preferably 4x4.5" but getting discs redrilled is cheap and easy. S13 front disc would suit me fine but I might just use the r33 stuffsince I've already got it and make the wilwood caliper sit on the other end. Yeah I think that's what I want.

DR86FT

21st October 2012, 08:53 PM

Is anyone running s13 disc and twin calipers on f series from yr22?

is the s13 rear caliper cable opperated too?

Skylar

22nd October 2012, 12:28 AM

s13 rear caliper is cable operated.

The problem here is apparently, they aren't great even when used as a hydraulic handbrake so there's no point in using those.

To run an s13 rear caliper, disc and say r/z chassis rear caliper, you've probably gotta space out the r/z caliper to work with the thinner disc. Otherwise you gotta run a shaved down s13 pad on an r/z disc (IF it fits) with r/z caliper.

The best solution, I think, is to run a r/z caliper with r/z disc and that 4 pot wilwood caliper with cable actuation. That way you get big rear brakes, hydro handbrake and cable handbrake.

Ok, so R32/33/z32 is 297x18mm rear disc. The wilwood caliper is designed for 20.6mm disc. The wilwood info sheet lists a mounting holes pcd of 3.5" for a 11.75"(298mm) disc. So it should be possible to run r/z calipers and calipers with the wilwood forged superlite internal.

I still wanna go look at r/z drum handbrake to see how hard (or easy) it is to do onto f-series.

LittleRedSpirit

22nd October 2012, 10:47 AM

I had a look at an mx73 cressida yesterday.

Has 269mm rear floating vented rotors, and 4x114.3. I just dont know if the hat goes close to fitting over the axle plates on the f series drum diff.

It too appears to have an inner drum in the backing plate.

269mm seems to be more in tune with what people run compared to the near 300mm skyline rear brakes mentioned.

Skid_KE70

22nd October 2012, 02:41 PM

I might go and have a stroll through a local wrecking yard, internal drum handbrake would be balls, ill look into a cable operated caliper :)

on another note, the new bracket kit for the r33 rear brakes has come together nicely and test fitted up great, its being plated as we speak so i should have to pics/info up in a couple of days for those boys who are intersted in this, seems to be a fantastic solution for people on the tracks.

jakel

22nd October 2012, 03:14 PM

MA70 supra rear brakes have internal drum brake and already have a bracket made up for a hilux G series. These are the brakes I have on my car but just using a hydraulic handbrake and if that's not good enough then might end up using the internal drum as well.

Skylar

22nd October 2012, 11:20 PM

WRX is 266x18 67.5 high 58mm bore (too small for toyo)
mx73 is 269x18 61 high 60mm bore
z32/r32 gtr/gts-t/r33 gts-25t/r34 25gt-t is 292x18 64 high 68 bore
r33/r34 gtr is 300x22 63 high 68 bore
ma70 is 291x18 68.5 high 60 bore

I checked vt commo too but that thing has a 16mm solid disc. Not interested. Go one brakeset up and you end up in the 300s with a 22mm disc. Same with falcons.

Anyone else have any ideas for decently sized drum handbrake cars/discs?

What's the id of a 15" wheel? Anyone know the maximum rotor and caliper you can run under most 15's?

jakel

23rd October 2012, 01:29 AM

I can fit my MA70 on hilux diff under 15s.

sundee

23rd October 2012, 02:15 AM

That's what we're trying to resolve by having this discussion

The twin R32/33/34 rear already done.
Fits under 15's with a 296mm rotor

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/showthread.php/21259-SD-Garage-R-amp-D-Page

Skylar

23rd October 2012, 11:07 AM

Oh shiii. I like that. A lot. Mounts from behind, keeps the front free.

So I take it you looked into doing drum handbrake and found it too hard?

You wanna make a one off caliper mount for me (and everyone else if they want it too) by moving one pair of the caliper mount holes to make the wilwood FSLI caliper fit?

jakel

23rd October 2012, 12:29 PM

http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/engine-driveline-conversions/18913-how-supra-ma70-rear-discs-hilux.html

And a picture of my setup.

LittleRedSpirit

24th October 2012, 08:18 AM

So your happy with 5 stud then?

I like the set-ups above but its still more brake than I need in my application.

Im going to do a single caliper with a handbrake, looking for a rotor no bigger than maybe 280mm. Definitely must be vented.

I really dont want to have to modify rotors to fit, so I may look at turning down the ends of the axles to suit some particular rotor.

For mass vs features I think Wilwood caliper with a built in handbrake could be lighter and cheaper than an oem spec caliper, especially by the time you buy the Nissan calipers, pads, and rekit them. To my thinking it makes the Wilwoods at around $300 a pair seem very good value for what you end up with. Being an F series user I am a little bit conscious of how much unsprung weight I am adding vs the durability of the rear end. I only wanted to put the minimum sized diff into the car that I thought I could reliably use to keep it as light as possible, so adding 2 large sets of oem calipers and a slightly larger rotor than I desire is not quite where I want to be.

I can see how its very good for the track though.

jakel

24th October 2012, 12:12 PM

Yeah doesn't really bother me just a bit hard finding 15" wheels in 5 stud, but already have 4 pairs so that's enough for now. The adapters cost $60, rotors $100 and remanufactured calipers were $150 so for the price I love it haha.

Skid_KE70

24th October 2012, 03:46 PM

Here we go:

8x 8.8 Grade Bolts
8x 18mm Polished Alloy Spacers
16x Washers (Zinc Coated)
2x 8mm Mild Steel Brackets (Zinc Coated)

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/7/3/1/404707.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/694/picture001sml.jpg/)

http://imageshack.us/a/img525/2889/picture002sml.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/525/picture002sml.jpg/)

http://imageshack.us/a/img546/7060/picture003sml.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/546/picture003sml.jpg/)

http://imageshack.us/a/img222/9777/picture004sml.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/222/picture004sml.jpg/)

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/7/3/1/404715.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/692/picture005sml.jpg/)

ill upload some pictures of these fitted later on.

sundee

24th October 2012, 08:56 PM

Thats odd... how do you get that over the Axle housing?
housing require mods to fit?

lolwat

24th October 2012, 10:05 PM

axle out

Bigwill

24th October 2012, 10:33 PM

I'm after a disc rear end for my levin. What's a good LSD option?
cheers

sundee

24th October 2012, 10:59 PM

I'm after a disc rear end for my levin. What's a good LSD option?
cheers

For what diff?

axle out

Right... so this mounts on the outside.
understand now. Ta.

Skid_KE70

24th October 2012, 11:30 PM

The cutout is just big enough to slip over the smallest part of the diff housing, it steps up end the end of the diff tubes where the axle bolts, these brackets bolt on the side closest to the diff centre (not the outside) so you do not need to remove the axle. No modification required. I'll have pictures up tomorrow of these fitted, I was so happy how the fitted tonight, the caliper position is fantastic also

Skylar

24th October 2012, 11:46 PM

F series axle tube flange gasket layed over R/Z backing plate.
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/2/0/2/5/404981.jpg

Turned 90 degs
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/2/0/2/5/404983.jpg

Probably could make it work if you really wanted to but I'm not happy with it. Ba bow :(

Twin caliper with integral handbrake it is.

Skid_KE70

25th October 2012, 08:20 AM

Yeh that doesnt look to safe if you are talking about drilling those holes, it would need to be reinforced.

LittleRedSpirit

26th October 2012, 02:44 PM

Mx13 axle plates are 153 mm diameter.

The centre locating ring is 60mm like ae86 diffs etc.

I had a U13 rotor laying around. Its a 257mmx 12mm solid rotor, 4 x 114.3, the inner area where the axle plate sits is also 153mm, it was a tight fit to the mx13 axle plate. this rotor has a 67mm centre bore.

Its almost perfect except it isnt vented.

Bigwill

27th October 2012, 09:31 AM

my ae is a 83 with a drum rear end, stocko with open center. easy to upgrade to disc brakes or better to swap out?
cost wise have got locker in it by welding the diff up but its not real praticl for the POlice.. /turning circle

and sugestions would be sweet!!

LittleRedSpirit

27th October 2012, 11:21 AM

More education. Spell better, be better to your mum.

Oh shit sorry, you mean for the diff.

Bin the stock diff and get a Ford 9 inch with 335mm rotors and alcon 6 piston calipers.

Seriously though, this isn't the thread for you (yet), this is a discussion about what kind of disc brakes can be fitted to a Toyota 7.5 or 8 inch rear end.

If you want advice about diff choice, make your own thread somewhere else, or search and read what others have previously read.

This is a thread for people who have already decided what diff to run and are looking for disc brakes.

You didn't tell us what motor you have or anything so how can we even answer you man?

JDMWheels

27th October 2012, 12:13 PM

I'm also chasing a setup for the MX13 Diff i bought without drum's :(

I've also got a complete drum to drum yr22 here - which I bought thinking it was 1435 mm, turns out it's 1455 - way too wide for the corolla.

From the research I've done the early 85 model solid axle RT142 disc setup with internal hand brake will bolt up - proving difficult to find.

Skylar

27th October 2012, 02:39 PM

Yes, the RT142 rear brake set up should bolt up to MX13 diff but is getting real hard to find. Matt will be able to confirm but they are same as s/t series but as far as I can remeber they are. YR22 is a different axle tube flange and I guess I have a cad file that will let you run S13 caliper and disc from behind or in front (original intention but have now figured that I could probably adapt it to run from behind). I'm basing that on the assumption that YR22 and YR30/31 diff's are same axle tube flange, which is different from G-series. With S chassis, the brake upgrades are simple, you just take the disc and caliper from whatever car and it will bolt on. For the rear, that doesn't leave you as much option as it's S13/14/15 single piston caliper with integral handbrake OR R/Z chassis twin piston with drum handbrake, which I've shown isn't the easiest thing to do. I guess the next thing to do would be to look at the relative heights of the axle disc mounting plate to diff tube flange offset then calculate if and how much space there is for a spacer to make the backing plate mount so that the drum shoes are into the disc about the correct amount.

Off topic but for the front, if someone makes an S13 disc and caliper bolt on kit for AE86 strut, 256x22mm/single or 280mmx22/single, you can easily swap to 280x26/4 pot, 280x30/4 pot, 296x30mm/4 pot, 310 or 324mm brakes. The last two or even three I think would be way over ae86 requirement.

Bigwill

27th October 2012, 07:22 PM

lolwat

27th October 2012, 10:47 PM

because when your asking for peoples time, as you dont know yourself, if you cant take enough time to use correct English, then why should people bother, if its a shitbox forum fuck off then

and yes i know, people are bad with English and spelling, i used spell check several times just now, still put in the effort

Skylar

27th October 2012, 11:27 PM

Your post still don't make sense William, did you mean, WHY be a dick about it...

Have you never used a forum before? Surely you know that a thread is to discuss a certain topic. This one is to dicsuss disc brake options for people with 7.5 or 8" toyota diff's which there are none that are off-the-shelf, not what diff to put in a car that may range from 150hp to 500hp, 20v turbo could be TD-05 to realistically, a 3071. The term turbo doesn't describe much. What does it get used for? Is it a show car? If so, a stock diff will do fine for transporting it from A to B. Anything more will require a bigger diff. How big depends on what the car is used for, how you drive it and what's easily available to you. Do you happen to know anyone with a ford explorer that they're about to crush?

Mikey, you might have spell checked but you sure didn't grammar check it. :P The first 'your' should be you're. 3 apostrophes are missing in the first 'sentence', which by the way is missing a full stop. Sorry, I'll shut up now. :)

JDMWheels

27th October 2012, 11:37 PM

MY be a dick about it when u can see I am only working out this shitbox forum out that has people like ya self on.
Oh and I'm running a 20v turbo, with s13 front end /coilovers and a microtec computer. Thanks 4 asking
catcha round.

A+++ For Attitude ..

Here's your introduction to how a forum works:

1. Login (Usually found up the top , in the right hand corner - To do this you will need to Register - to Register you will need an email address ) - I think you've figured this step out though.
2. If you've managed to remember your username and password you are now able to see the Forums Index - This allows you to browse all the different categories. Each category contains different information that may / may not be relevant to you.
3. Inside each category you will see "Threads" such as the one you have stumbled across.
4. Inside these "Threads" you will find posts (Like the one you are reading right now).
5. Each Thread has a name - This name usually relates to what the thread is about - In this case - G and F Series Toyota Rear Diff's and potential Disc Brake Solutions.
6. When looking at Thread names - It helps to read entire thread name - Just because it has "Diff" in the title doesn't mean it's about all diff's for all models - Case in Point being this thread - A source of information for F / G Series Diff's (7.5/8") - If you have a question about a diff or disc brakes for you diff - If you have an F or a G series this thread is probably the best place for you to ask a question like that - Thus why you got the response you did above (Which was fair)
7. If you want to ask a question about your particular Diff Setup it's wise to Search (also found in the top right) for what you are after - If you can't find anything useful then you can navigate the Forums Index and find the appropriate section (Which you found - "Technical Questions"
8. You then Post up as much information as you can about what your problem is, and what you are trying to achieve - As clearly as possible with pictures if required - And patiently wait for a reply!

Enjoy! =)

JDMWheels

27th October 2012, 11:43 PM

Back on Topic

I'm trying to find an RT142 that i can pinch the brakes from (They are really hard to find with the solid disc rear end).

Are any of you guys planning to run 13/14's with these brake setups your trying to figure out? I personally will never run bigger than a 14" Wheel on the back and will probably stick with JDM Brakes or similar up front for the life of the car so i don't want to upset the brake balance.

Skylar

27th October 2012, 11:54 PM

Nope, I'll be on 15's. Why 14's max man? Are you after twin caliper?

JDMWheels

28th October 2012, 12:09 AM

14's are the biggest wheels i want to run on the Car :)

I'm just chasing a single caliper solution - Which is why the RT142 Setup is so tempting -I've been looking for a while now and i still haven't found anything though - If the MX13 diff had come with drum's i would have used them to simplify things and save time chasing unobtanium

Skylar

28th October 2012, 12:29 AM

Just bolt on s/t series drums? Maximum Simplification, y/n?

JDMWheels

28th October 2012, 12:41 AM

I wasn't aware that they bolted up! If that's the case! for the time being I'll get some of those then.

Skylar

28th October 2012, 12:55 AM

By logic, it should. You can bolt RT142 disc set up onto S/T/E series. S/T/E-series is (confirmed via multiple sources) same as MX13 F-series. It'll work.

and for future reference, not that it's relevant to this topic but is ending up about rear brakes for all diffs more than just F&G series, T-series disc diff is a different axle tube flange patten to drum T-series.

JDMWheels

28th October 2012, 01:07 AM

Skylar

28th October 2012, 01:23 AM

Well, fuck me. Stumbled upon something that might make my life easier. Estima is live axle F-series and has discs internal drum brake AND has the same rectangle axle tube pattern as drum diff AND is single row bearing. MINDFUCK.

Still, in this stupid state, the chance of me stumpbling upon one of those wrecking and getting the stuff at a reasonable price is pretty much impossible. SO, on with the wilwood fsi/ R/Z calipers it is.

If anyone finds a previa and wants to grab the stuff for me at a cheap price, I'll take it. :P

Skylar

28th October 2012, 01:27 AM

Appreciate the information mate!

Is it physically possible to fit a twin caliper setup under a 14" Wheel? (with a reasonable size vented disk).

Yeah dude, if one caliper fits, two will fit no prob. Might get cramped but should be enough space to do so. The disc will be limited to caliper choice but yeah, if jakel can get a 291mm disc under 15's you should theoretically be able to get a 266mm disc under 14's. Is that size reasonable enough?

Skylar

28th October 2012, 02:17 AM

Aaaand click.

While talking about which diffs have what flange, it occured to me that what sundee is selling is for his mx13 diff which is the s/t/e axle tube flange and will not fit yr22/30/31 tarago/estima f-series. I think I'm the only one that has a tarago diff in this thread so no one that's shown interest in sundee's product is affected. It opens up the option to t-series guys also.

Care to confirm what diff your caliper mounts are based on Joel?

Bigwill

28th October 2012, 08:39 AM

LittleRedSpirit

28th October 2012, 11:28 AM

If you took that personally about your mum, then grow up.

If you read peoples posts with your angry hat on, you will not be cut out for forum life.

I simply chose a light hearted way to tell you to piss off and stop hijacking the thread with your own short attention span.

We are all getting a lot out of this discussion and dont want it diverted, hijacked or terminated for any reason until we finish putting our info together in the name of a solution. What I've learned is that I should have just said, "Stop hijacking the thread".

ae8zn6

28th October 2012, 03:04 PM

Sweet got it. Just don't appreciate people talking bought people's mums/ mine. Spelling was on iPhone (typo)
Wouldn't be driving if so but yea sorry bought posting in wrong thread will read up a bit more. Mabe will be back on this thread when
i decide what I want to run as ive got to workout what's best for my application. It's a ae86 that was a daily but is now in the shed
So I can make it track/drift friendly. Thanks again and sorry about calling it a shitbox forum :( it's not at all and when I got a bit more time will start a ( build thread )
And Think twice when I post out of frustration :/
Cheers Will

As above, you will actually find people on this forum ridiculously helpful if you choose to use it correctly. In fact one of the key contributors to this thread let me bring my car over to his house and showed me (read basically did for me) an engine conversion within a week of me moving to that side of the country. We had never met or talked before this happened, he just flat out offered to spend a few days helping out a complete stranger and asked nothing in return. This also meant nothing was done on his car whilst mine was in the way! [/HIJACK]

Skylar

28th October 2012, 04:29 PM

Hey! It's Andrew.

Also, said car is still not fully operational BUT I am working on it. Will be driving by the next time you come here. Promise.

ae8zn6

28th October 2012, 06:57 PM

Hey! It's Andrew.

Also, said car is still not fully operational BUT I am working on it. Will be driving by the next time you come here. Promise.

I believe you Ken, even if millions of others wouldn't, if everything goes to plan it could be as early as June!

JDMWheels

28th October 2012, 09:12 PM

Tonight - Out of the blue a friend dropped over an RT142 Disc Inc. Internal Drum for me! So my brake setup is sorted.

Still interested on twin caliper setups for the future though :)

lolwat

28th October 2012, 10:01 PM

running jdm 86 rotors and calipers for my g series, more then enough room to mount 2 sets

Skid_KE70

29th October 2012, 09:41 AM

sweet, some good info coming together here,
well here is an update on my G series setup, remember this is a 297mm rotor and i have about 25mm clearance to a 15" wheel, the only problem with these calipers as said before is you need large offset wheels to clear them.... anyway

PHOTOS:
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/7/3/1/405157.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/577/picture001yno.jpg/)

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/7/3/1/405159.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/850/picture002dz.jpg/)

http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/4559/picture003azw.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/267/picture003azw.jpg/)

LittleRedSpirit

30th October 2012, 09:04 AM

Fits neat, well done.

Skylar

30th October 2012, 11:59 PM

Is there a spacer under the disc? It looks like the disc is not sitting on the axle's face. Like I know how deep the hat is on an r33 disc is and it looks like I can see the side of the axle plate?

johl

31st October 2012, 12:05 AM

how much are people paying for r33 rear callipers?

Skid_KE70

31st October 2012, 08:09 AM

Na, no spacer and fits one there very well. The R33 Rotor is slightly thicker than the standard hilux drum.

Skid_KE70

31st October 2012, 08:12 AM

how much are people paying for r33 rear callipers?

Normally $150-$250 a pair from most wreckers etc.. probably cheaper off the net. There are some sweet brake pads available for them, I’m using Green Stuff Pads

jakel

31st October 2012, 11:19 AM

Try looking overseas at recoed items I got my MA70 supra calipers for $170 delivered as a reconditioned set new pistons seals and a hone. Could send back the other ones I have to get back the $30 core charge but the cost of postage makes it not worth it, haha.

LittleRedSpirit

31st October 2012, 11:34 AM

Yeah theres a company that recos almost anye caliper you can think of and sells them on us ebay.

sundee

31st October 2012, 09:09 PM

if your paying $200 a set for R32/33/34 rears your paying a premium..
$150 is what you should be getting them for.

buy them from the net... dont even both calling a wrecker

Rebuild kits are cheap as well, its a DIY job as well.

ke_70

31st October 2012, 10:53 PM

has anyone ever looked into wrx my99ish rear rotors? 266x18mm 67.5mm offset.

in just about to start building my rn25 hilux diff (which is g series i think?)
im converting back to 4 stud and want a duel caliper setup that fits under 14'' wheels and suits the wilwood fronts.
i also want minimal caliper protrusion.

i've got 1 set of skyline 2 pots just need another.

will update this thread with progress.
car is full track car so no cable hand break needed.

what meterials are you guys using for caliper brackets? im thinking 10mm mild steel but im wondering weather that would be strong enough?

sundee

31st October 2012, 11:50 PM

10 mm mild steel is BS overkill!!
each bracket will weigh around 3 - 4 kg!

i used 10mm ally 2024 and had no issues... bracket weight was around 600 grams from memory.

your already adding about 40kg with a G series, do you really want another 10 - 15 kg ontop of that?

you suspension will be up to shit, so much weight it wont be able to handle or keep the wheels on the black stuff.
The car will feel like a dead weight..

after you drive a car with massive unsprung weight, then mod it to loose around 6 - 8 kg / corner, the change in handling is outrageous!

i know you have heard the whole unsprung weight argument before.. and i was one of those who said.. "yeah yeah whatever"... but until you do it to your own car, and notice the difference.... you will never fully understand.

You need to think about this... design it right 1st... the car is light.. you have a twin piston, larger surface area, combined with a rather large vented/ most likely slotted rotor... and a relatively small wheel/tyre width/rolling diameter
it will not take much force to lock it up...

ke_70

1st November 2012, 12:10 AM

yes unsprung weight is abit of an issue isn't it.
mabey i could try ally instead. it would be alot easier to make also.
would 6061 grade do the job?

Skid_KE70

2nd November 2012, 10:30 AM

Skylar

2nd November 2012, 11:26 AM

I did FEA on a 10mm steel caliper mount. 1000kg car, 50:50 weight split (even when braking) slowing down at 1.5g or something. Deflection was 0.02mm. Could easily make it thinner. Too bad my program doesn't have more materials I could model with.

It has "structural aluminium" but I don't remember if it mentioned what grade it was. This is from like 2 years ago so I'll have to check it again and go looking for more material files so I can model 2024/6061/7075/1020/whatever else that's commonly used.

ke_70

2nd November 2012, 12:54 PM

i don't think 6061 will cut it.

i think i'll use 8mm plate as daim has. will probley be largly the same exept to suit a smaller disk.

Skid_KE70

2nd November 2012, 01:02 PM

i don't think 6061 will cut it.

i think i'll use 8mm plate as daim has. will probley be largly the same exept to suit a smaller disk.

I can probably make a kit for a smaller diameter rotor for you if you were using the same calipers. i can draw it up on CAD and have it laser cut

ke_70

2nd November 2012, 10:54 PM

ah its cool, i can get brackets watercut up for less than $20.

converted the diff to 4stud tonight too.
made a jig and picked up off of the centre hub and 1 stud
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/2/2/1/405525.jpg
(don't mind those other 4 holes, just made it out of some junker flanges laying around)
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/2/2/1/405527.jpg

threw it in the radial drill
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/2/2/1/405529.jpg
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/2/2/1/405530.jpg

johl

2nd November 2012, 11:38 PM

which f series is that out of clay? im interested to know if the rumour is true about there being an extra 20mm of teeth on yr22 axels therefor making it a simple job to shorten the diff?

Skylar

2nd November 2012, 11:52 PM

That's a g-series isn't it?

Tarago axle has like an inch-30mm of spline. The factory open diff has about an inch or so off memory. A cusco altezza diff however only has like 1/2" to 15mm of spline. Where the two meet and how much you can cut off, I don't know.

ke_70

3rd November 2012, 12:04 AM

yes this is a g series out of a rn25 hilux. no need to shorten as its like 25-30mm shorter than the corolla diff.

if the f series axles are similar design to this then yes you can shroten heaps if you wanted.

Adsport

3rd November 2012, 10:58 PM

post removed

lolwat

3rd November 2012, 11:20 PM

With JDM disc's too it appears the hub on the axles have been machined down

LittleRedSpirit

4th November 2012, 11:28 AM

MX13 diff has the same centrebore as ae86 JDM disc rear end, 60mm.

ke_70

4th November 2012, 10:39 PM

what your probley feeling isn't so much the increase of unsprung, rather the reduction of spring rate.
when you increase the unsprung weight you also increase the inertal energy. so when your wheel hits a bump a starts to compress upwards the weight is going to want to contine moving up because of the inertia. so in effect you increase the suspension stoke which is exactally what happens when you reduce spring rates.
so im guessing that you mabey had the car setup alittle too stiff before with the s series and the diff has more or less bought the springs into a better range. as increaseing unsprung weight is just about the worst thing you can do...(apart from unsprung rotating mass)

anyway back on topic...

Adsport

4th November 2012, 11:02 PM

I don't like street cars that are setup stiff, I like the car to be enjoyable to drive so I set it up to absorb bumps and have functional suspension. So much so that a little ways down the track now I have changed from the stupid 8/6kg to 6/4.5kg and am loving it. My car doesn't react at all how you are assuming. I have lots more grip and my car doesn't want to go ass out everywhere now !

sundee

6th November 2012, 12:31 AM

^ Thats not fun.. Enjoyable is 8/6 ! For street, want a soft ride? Buy a falcon.
Just dont aim for pot holes, run 10/8 in my S13 daily... Wouldn't have it any other way.

For brackets you wouldn't want to go any lower the 6061 in T6 temper..

16mm plate steel is absolutely stupid, thats an easy 7 kg / bracket! Why did you go to the effort of lightening axles when you just added it back in with your brackets and then some?

Adsport

6th November 2012, 01:40 AM

16mm was the spacing I needed to offset the calipers for them to sit properly. The caliper bracket isnt much larger than an iPhone, it is very far from weighing 7kg.

Taking weight off the axles was a by product of machining them down to fit the process.

I'm making good power, a lot more than most people so being able to not have a tail happy car and have it handling was my priority. It was too stupid with 8/6 and its a dumb rate combo for a street car that is so light.

All I wanted to do was to put up my experience and how I solved the issue at hand and you guys feel like you need to attack me for it, why?

dtcng

6th November 2012, 02:05 AM

I run a similar setup to you Adsport and I find it more enjoyable to drive then when I had the rock hard spring rates in it

Adsport

6th November 2012, 02:38 AM

I see your point, I'm just saying that I found that I have a lot more grip now with the setup that I am running. 8/6 left me very annoyed and battered many times, and the other times it was just too scary with the back end breaking out under boost on the fwy .

I certainly didn't expect to be shot at for my experiences and information, espescially after I posted what took me months to come up with what I found was a good solution and think the attitude towards me freely posting valuable information was uncalled for.

LittleRedSpirit

6th November 2012, 07:26 AM

Adsport is backing up what every suspension guru I've ever known has taught me. Softness is key.

Anyhow, we are way off topic and now arguing, so lets get back to the brakes.

Skylar

6th November 2012, 11:54 PM

I wanna talk about suspension too, but I won't. :(

In other matters, Good news everyone! Memory was wrong, I got all sortsa materials to do analysis with.

So I made a RA40 strut S13 brakeset mount in 8mm 6061. I think I can make the design better by beefing up the areas of high stress but that's not really the prob at the moment. I get a movement of 0.125mm at the edge of the legs. Is this going to be a problem? My gut says it is especially being aluminium. Fatigue and all with ally and that thing will eventually tear off. Not that I know what the fatigue stress vs cycles chart looks like for 6061.

Yeah, so reran it with 2024. Factor of safety went from .45 to .627. and it's really only the outer holes (ones closest to caliper) that are being stressed. Could easily fix it by making the holes bigger and pressing in steel sleeves to distribute the load. I'm also not locating the caliper mount on the centre circle. I'll figure that out when I have more time but that should help the bolt hole situation. Seems that was another software package where I could set those sortsa relations. This one's real quick so you can only fix/restrain it, no sliding/pivoting relations.

Gonna try run another software package I have which is more thorough and see if it has result that's more definitive in giving an answer as to whether 6061 will cut it.

Haha, software package two did a hostile takeover of software one and shut it down.

/blabbering

ke_70

7th November 2012, 12:13 AM

good info keep it coming!

Skylar

7th November 2012, 01:18 AM

Ran it in other analysis software. Good new is, it's a straight export, bad news is, it has bugger all for materials, structural steel and some other aluminium alloy. Won't tell me what it is but has Material Properties. Could probably make a 2024/6061/7075/1020 from data floating around the net.

Also, when I said, made, I meant I drew.

ke_70

7th November 2012, 10:21 AM

yeah im thinking 6061 is abit soft, asked afew people in the know and they would probley avoid using it.

especually in a drift car where the hand brake is slamed on rather harshly at some desent speeds.

sundee

7th November 2012, 04:11 PM

a standard 6061 might be a bit soft, but in T6 it might be ok...the advantage with a corolla is is light and we run relativly small tyres.. so the resistance in the opposite direction of the cars velocity i dont think would be that outrageous.

Skylar

7th November 2012, 11:04 PM

Someone QA my calcs please.
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/2/0/2/5/406131.jpg

Because it's only a simple simulation I'm running I can only direct the forces up/down/left/right which is ok but to I feel like I should be modelling it with both the shear force and torque?
Ugh, what I need to do is "attach" a "caliper" to the bolt holes and apply the force to that. That'll give me a more accurate stress loading on the model.

With materials, I have no idea what's good and what's not. I know that bikes are 6061 or 4130, sometimes 7075.

Also, that is office 2003 for those of you that remember. Running a 2006 version simulation software and listening to music from 90's snes games off an IDE hard drive. Totally living in the past still.

Skylar

8th November 2012, 12:53 AM

Did some more simulations. Changed the caliper mount from a dual "leg" type to something resembling AJPS's FC caliper mount. Made the mount out of 12mm thick 2024. Decrease the 12300N to a more realistic 10,000N by reducing the 100% front weight distribution to 80/20.

The safety factor is still barely 0.55. The highest stresses are seen at the two outer bolt holes. Easily fixed by helicoiling the bolt holes. The tips of the caliper attaching bolts move 0.05592mm. Good enough?

This is all based on the assumption that the caliper mounting plate will be flat. I'll figure that out when I mock up on car.

Got some interesting results re: material, mass and strength, I'll post it up hopefully tomorrow.

Big T

8th November 2012, 05:30 PM

I run twin spot brembos on F-series mx13 rear. R33 gtr rear disk (300x22mm) redrilled to 4x114.3 and using an internal drum handbrake. The inner of the disk had to be machined 1mm to accomodate the internal drums. The caliper bracket is flat made from 8mm thick steel.

http://imageshack.us/a/img152/8161/redshell783yg5.th.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/152/redshell783yg5.jpg/)

Skylar

8th November 2012, 08:11 PM

Nice to see you're still around Eddie.

May I ask why it is that you machined the drum surface of the disc? Are you still running the original MX13 drums and machined the discs to fit? I don't see why you would machine the drum surface if you were still running R33 GT-R drum assembly.

Big T

8th November 2012, 08:50 PM

No I'm running an rt142/st141 internal drum setup. The r33 disk is almost perfect in every way except for that one dimension. I still had to take off some pad material even after machining the i.d.

DR86FT

9th November 2012, 11:44 AM

Anyone got a setup on a yr22 diff?

sundee

9th November 2012, 01:43 PM

im doing the test fit up now with the brackets i made for the MX13 F diff.

Skylar

9th November 2012, 04:28 PM

Kaan, I've got a set up. It's just S13 caliper and disc but will allow you to bolt on R32/R33/Z32 rear caliper and disc but you lose handbrake as R/Z is internal drum. It's a pretty goofy set up but I wanna play around with the caliper and plate locations and try and get it to work without spacing stuff.

Next one I make will have R33 caliper mount as well as mounts wilwood forged superlite internal caliper mounts for R33 294x18mm disc.

Skylar

10th November 2012, 12:20 AM

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/2/0/2/5/538374.jpg

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/2/0/2/5/406411.jpg
Got very little room to mount from behind.
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/2/0/2/5/406413.jpg

Also, there is the factory bolt on disc brake with internal drum option I detailed earlier.

DR86FT

10th November 2012, 07:57 AM

Skylar

10th November 2012, 02:54 PM

I can cut it in half and mirror it (easy way out) or I can re-cad it for 2 R/Z chassis calipers if you want (not very hard either). The only problem is that you lose the mechanical handbrake and therefore not road legal. Thought about 1 s13 caliper and 1 r/z caliper but different thickness discs. I'll get one cut up early next week and try mounting from behind to save you doing a spacer. I'll do some measurement and see if I can switch it to rear mount like the other guy's set ups.

Is your diff shortened or standard length?

Also, I can just send you the dxf file (for a small fee) and you can get it laser cut yourself. My watercutter takes about a week to cut anything and I'm not happy with the watercutter (the cut has a taper on it as the water loses power the thicker it cuts, if you spec the 80mm od of the bearing, one side fits fine but the other needs some filing to fit over the bearing). Looking into getting it lasercut for the full thickness item, as in for my front brake upgrade. I can get your plates cut here if you really want me to.

Skylar

11th November 2012, 02:38 AM

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/2/0/2/5/538377.jpg

deflects .19mm under a straight line force of 10000N down on the holes. will be less when I apply the force directly. 2024, 10mm thick. Weight is 636g. Factor of safety was .43 from memory.

10mm 1020 steel. FOS of 2.0. Deflects .0692mm under same force. Weighs 1.796kg.

Run again using 2024 but 14mm this time. FOS 0.629. deflects 0.13mm. Weighs .891kg.

Kick it to 20mm, FOS 0.839. Deflects .095. Weighs 1.27kg

Also, shown design is dimensioned for back mounting. Just haven't cut the flange down yet to suit. Hopefully I'll send it to the watercutter before she's cut my other stuff.

DR86FT

11th November 2012, 08:18 AM

My diff is standard length :-/

ke_70

19th November 2012, 09:37 PM

right:
test fitted up my brakes tonight.

rn25 g series
wrx rotors 266x18mm
skyline calipers (duel)
custom bracket

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/2/2/1/407325.jpg
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/2/2/1/407326.jpg
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/2/2/1/407327.jpg

ended up using 10mm steel for the bracket, they're really not that big so the extra weight would be minimal. and because the diff is alot shorter than the corolla diff's the opening on the bracket had to be larger to slip over the stepped up diametre.

ke_70

19th November 2012, 09:45 PM

fit 14's under them

8mm spacer would fit most wheels on there. my equips fit with an 8mm, but it's the bolts are the biggest issue. my starsharks with no bolts fit with only a 3mm spacer.
so counter sunk bolts would free up alot of room

jakel

20th November 2012, 01:30 AM

Looks good, what is the bracket worth if you make another? Or did you get it made?

ke_70

20th November 2012, 10:15 AM

i cut the bracket out by hand using oxy/grinder.
wouldn't cost much to get profile cut, i just couldn't be fucked drawing it up properly

jakel

20th November 2012, 11:53 AM

Well certainly looks the goods.

Skylar

27th December 2012, 06:06 PM

Water cutter is slow.
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/2/0/2/5/503027.jpg
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/2/0/2/5/503028.jpg

Don't like how there's almost no material around bolt holes. It does however locate on the inner face.

Gonna stick to mounting off the front face.

ke_70

27th December 2012, 06:56 PM

why not use all 4 bolt holes?

japlish

27th December 2012, 07:01 PM

Has anybody thought of using 1 x r31 caliper for handbrake and 1 x vs commodore caliper for hyd handbrake? They both have the same mounting dimensions and the only difference is the handbrake setup??

Skylar

27th December 2012, 07:02 PM

There's a diff tube in the way. The front piece (thick) uses all 4 holes since it mounts from the front. The rear piece (thin) was a try at mounting the calipers from behind the axle tube flange.

japlish

27th December 2012, 07:09 PM

Kinda hard to understand in my stick man picture head so I take that as a yes?? Lol

Skylar

27th December 2012, 07:14 PM

How good is a single piston sliding caliper going to perform (and look)? Could do the same with S13 calipers by removing the handbrake mechanism off the caliper but it won't work as good as a R/Z chassis 2 piston caliper.

oh, previous post was in reply to Clay's post, not yours.

japlish

27th December 2012, 07:20 PM

I would think the pad surface between the 2 variants would cancel out the extra piston don't you think? And can you buy brand new 2 spot calipers anywhere?....just a though :)

Skylar

27th December 2012, 07:31 PM

you can get calipers from wilwood new.

I could give it a go but I don't think it's going to work. You could give it a go if you wanted to. It'll only take me like half an hour playing aorund on the computer to do twin s13 calipers. If it doesn't work then you just bolt on r/z-chassis stuff but you lose the handbrake mechanism.

I'll just leave my stuff mounting off the front and do the R33 rear/wilwood combo. Might do R33 + FC/rx8 rear caliper if I can get ahold of one.

japlish

27th December 2012, 07:36 PM

I was Toying with the idea as I can get them through work brand-new, I just wanted someone else to do the brackets so it was easier lol.

Skylar

27th December 2012, 07:57 PM

Do you know the mounting hole PCD and bolt spacing? Is it same as r32? There's an article on R31club or something showing available brake upgrades for them. If it's the same as R32 it'll be like 3.5" or something. I have the measurements on the CAD computer. It'd be easy to draw up.

CHESSEDUDE

7th May 2013, 05:45 AM

Hey Guys, I'm doing the R33 caliper on a G-Series diff, mainly so I can keep the internal drum hand brake..

I just ran into this thread and saw what you guys have done with the twin calipers to get a hydraulic handbrake out of one of them..
What I've been wondering is there potentially anything wrong with running two calipers like you guys, but for both as the foot pedal brake...?

So, it would be two R33 calipers, hooked up in series on the same brake line, per disc on each side?
All good? Legal? Other thoughts?

Thanks

Delazy

7th May 2013, 09:59 AM

^^^ I'm not even sure why you would want too? :S

CHESSEDUDE

7th May 2013, 10:10 AM

^^^ I'm not even sure why you would want too? :S

Need bigger brakes on rear, need non-hydro handbrake, don't want drums.. not many choices, if twin R33's will run with no issues, I've got everything I wanted for a reasonable price.

ke_70

7th May 2013, 11:10 AM

putting 2 calipers will not make you stop any quicker.

only advantage would be decreased pad heat and wear.

CHESSEDUDE

7th May 2013, 11:39 AM

Hmm, maybe I'm thinking about it the wrong way then...?

I figure, brake pad area of contact + force on discs = braking power? Slows rotation of rotor/hub/wheel??
So, double the surface area with equal pressure to the first again - it's like going from single pot with small brake pad to two pot caliper with larger pad?

Where am I going wrong with my thinking here man?? :S

Cheers..

blinded

7th May 2013, 12:05 PM

Just remember, your braking force is only going to be as powerful as the friction of the tires on the road.

Two callipers will double the applied force on the rotor, but realistically it will be no advantage in a light car that can only have so much grip to the road.

CHESSEDUDE

7th May 2013, 12:28 PM

Oh ok, I see what you guys are saying.. Yeah, I understand that once the wheels lock (stock and big brakes kits alike) that deceleration will be the same, etc.

Anyways.. Do you guys see any major pitfalls in the idea, and it should be avoided??
I was worried that one caliper might fade quicker, or in different areas of the pad to the other one, things like that...?

Just don't want to find later that my rears are locking quicker than the fronts or something..
While I'm doing the disc brake swap and the diff isn't in the car, just trying to go the extra effort to eliminate any future issues..

jakel

7th May 2013, 01:07 PM

CHESSEDUDE

7th May 2013, 01:40 PM

The reason people go dual calipers is so it doesn't mess with the pedal feel when you use a hydro handbrake so they have one normal caliper hooked up to the brake pedal then another caliper with separate lines to a hydro handbrake.
That's what I think the reason is anyway?

Yeah, that's pretty much it i think, but drum shoes can wear out quicker too..

Well, that, or you do it to if you loose your factory hand-brake form going to discs/bigger calipers.
Think someone mentioned that hydraulic handbrakes are illegal for road use but..

jakel

7th May 2013, 04:12 PM

Yeah you need a cable handbrake for road use, well legal road use chances are if you want a hydro there will be other illegal mods so probably won't make it any worse if you have one.

LittleRedSpirit

8th May 2013, 10:37 AM

They used to run 2 pair of calipers on the front of many group a cars back when the wheels were small and the brakes had to fit inside but pack maximum punch.

Lukec

26th May 2013, 05:06 PM

hey guys im doing a f series diff in my ae71 and thinking of running twin r33 rear calipers. was anyone making the brackets for the calipers to mount on or were people making there own? if anyone knows anyone that is making the brakets I would definetly buy them, also what disks has people used? I want a slotted and vented rotor on the rear.. cheers guys

Skylar

27th May 2013, 12:58 PM

If you're using r33 calipers, you need an 18mm disk which is what most Nissan rear disks are. FC is 20mm commodore was either solid or way thick, same with falcon IIRC. I don't think I looked at much else in the way of disks but if you're going to use those calipers you might as use the same disk to go with it. If you wanted a smaller disk, you'd be wasting some pad size.

What car is the f-series out of. Sundee/spirited drive makes what you're after but it's for the mx13 diff only and suits s/t/e series. If you've got a tarago diff then, no one makes anything to suit them. I have cad files of the flange and the offsets required to make them but I'm using s13 stuff.

Lukec

27th May 2013, 01:04 PM

Yep it's a tarago diff. Think I might just have to make my own brackets to suit then. Cheers for the help

CHESSEDUDE

27th May 2013, 01:32 PM

Now might be a good time to ask - anyone got a file or template for twin R33 calipers on a g-series diff?
I'll need to change a few things, but it would be a good starting point if anyone can help out.. Thanks..

adds

11th August 2013, 10:02 PM

So instead of starting a new thread I may aswell ask here..

So this might come across abit silly, but i like to overthink things and make things more complicated than they are!!! but, I finally got around to putting together my f series diff (yr22) and have a few questions..

my main concern is with the axles and how they are held in....Is it only the thin little plate with 4 bolt holt holes on the axle itself that hold the whole lot in? Or am I missing something. I never taken one apart and I got mine in pieces so I can't confirm anything.

To me it Just seems the axle retainer is pretty thin to be holding the axles in.?!?!

Also,

When i slide the axles into the housing the bearings push up agains the lip inside the housing so they can't go in any further....but the bearing itself sticks out about 3-4mm from the housing face.. Is this normal? Just seems odd.. Or does the backing plates for drums/disks meant to take up this extra few mm. (Never got them)

I am going to be running some sort of disk setup so does this mean the thickness of the caliper bracket has to be the thickness of how much the bearing sticks out the housing? So when I bolt the axles in they can't slide in or out..

here is a photo of my axle bolted in.. You can just kinda see how much the bearing sticks out and the gap needed to be taken up...it's just not making sence..

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/5/0/5/0/511115.jpg

For example.. Say the bearings stick out past the housing by 4mm, and I make my caliper brackets with the radius cut out to sit over the bearing O.D from say 8mm think steel... When everything is bolted up I will be able to slide the axle in and out by 4mm !??!

What am I missing?? Sorry if this is a gay ass question haha

Can anyone clear it all up for me..
Cheers. Adam.

CHESSEDUDE

11th August 2013, 10:42 PM

Hi Adam, that looks like you have installed the assembly correctly -
I can tell you with the g-series, from memory, that the tension of the diff center splines, bearing/bearing carrier and oil seal are the only things holding the axles in..
Hope that was of help but ask again and we can help you in this thread.
Cheers

Jip86

11th August 2013, 11:31 PM

Adds, you are correct in thinking that the brake dust cover (backing plate as you put it.) makes up the couple mm to close up the gap between the housing and the axel retaining plate. I suppose you could swing the calipers off a plate sandwiched in that gap. That's how some of the twin caliper kits are.

I just reread your post and the whole 8mm plate would create 4mm slop ( or there abouts) is correct.

I run a s13 disc setup on a f series and the caliper bracket is welded to the housing. Then the dust cover was cut down so its pretty much a spacer so it doesn't have any slop.

Big T

12th August 2013, 06:44 AM

Concur with above. The backing plate for the drums would normally take up that thickness. If you make the plate 8mm thick and have the 4mm of slop, just make a 4mm ring to take up the additional distance. It's easiest to make a circlip style spacer so you dont have to press off the bearings

adds

12th August 2013, 10:32 AM

Sweet thanks guys..

It just seemed odd the bearings stuck out a little bit, but that cleared it all up for me cheers!

adds

3rd September 2013, 11:29 PM

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/2/0/2/5/406413.jpg

Have u spaced the disk out further in the pic? Are they s13 calipers?

YRO 11A

23rd December 2013, 12:54 PM

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/1/6/7/7/2/522927.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/16nxi6j)These are mx73 rear brakes made to fit the yr22 tarago diff in my ke30 corolla
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/1/6/7/7/2/522928.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/mjij4bj)I butchered the mx73 rear arms to get the profile correct then had custom brackets plasma cut to suit
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/1/6/7/7/2/522929.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/31c9woj)I had my mate machine up this pretty piece of alloy so after boring out the mx73 backing plate to fit over the yr22 bearings i could drill the holes in the right spot
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/1/6/7/7/2/522930.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/nbtrvej)Then I welded the caliper bracket onto the housing
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/1/6/7/7/2/522931.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/mv28hnj) and Hey presto mx73 calipers and handbrake on a yr22 diff... (in a ke30)
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/1/6/7/7/2/522932.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/f6yuuaj)
I also had to put a 5mm thick ring on the axle before the wheel bearing (just to get enough clearance for the handbrake mech behind the axle stud heads

Konakid

10th June 2014, 10:01 PM

Hey guys Ive been scratching my head about what to do in my RT142 turbo (181rwkw 1200kg) wagon for a brake upgrade. It currently has RA65 front struts and brakes with the 258mm rotors, YR22 F series rear end and a hydro handbrake, standard 15/16" (i think) master cyl.

The car is used for street, drift and hillclimb, not really heavy track use so the brakes dont need to be overkill but i DO need a good handbrake. The hydro has never worked very well and the pedal has always been sorta spongey, im thinking the increase in wheel cylinder diamter in the F series drum has softened the pedal and lengthened the travel. Also i have been told that the hydraulic handbrake master is probably meant for a disc break rear end which uses perhaps a smaller piston/less fluid? Like, it works but you have to reef it harder than a normal cable one pretty much.

Ive seen a few people have run S13 rear caliper and discs 258mm x 9 solid single piston, maybe this would be a good rear option with either R33 GTST 296mm falcon setup up front or smaller single piston R33 GTS 280mm setup.

ORRRR just go s13 Rear caliper and rotor and see how it feels after that. What is the caliper protrusion like on this setup? track increase? Dont really want to increase track by more than 10mm at either end really. Currently the car isnt wanting for brakes as i use the QFM A1RM 780 deg pad. I just want a better pedal feel and the hydro to work.

I also want to run and swap round my 15's (195/55 toyo R1R for drift and 205 Advan semi's for grip) (superlights, XR4's and mesh) but the R33 GTST calipers might be an issue with a flat back wheel like the mesh. superlights should be fine, the XR4 a maybe?

I dont need a cable handbrake ive already removed that years ago. Any help or experience you guys have had would be great.

Sorry for tha essay, xoxo stonerkid.

Skylar

11th June 2014, 02:04 AM

I have a non disk spacing setup for f-series now. No spacing the disc to suit a flat caliper mount like I did on my car. And it's untested but it has mounts for some sort of wilwood caliper (I forgot which) on s13 rear disc. It will need to be machined to the right height after I decide how to mount it but no big deal. You can cut them off, leave them. I can take it out of my cad file if you really want.

The best part about this is, if you don't like the s13 stuff, you just go and bolt on r32/r33/z32 stuff after drilling the disc to 4 stud. Since you don't care about a handbrake, you got nothing to worry about. I did half think about looking at the diff to see if I could do it the other day but nah. Working on putting silvia brakes on the front of the car at the moment. And I remember I already tried to do that.