T3 knuckles?

[willeE7]

Looking for opinions on T3 knuckles. Need some more lock and there's not much else I can find other than cut and shut. Which I have no objection to, I'd just rather avoid if I can.
Will look into rack spacers too but would like it if I can get some reports on the T3 arms or recommendations for others.

Cheers.

[sundee]

what would you like to know?
same specs as PS... has another tie rod mounting hole 10mm inboard for extra lock, makes steering slightly heavier, which is only noticeable at low speed.
they are fairly good bang for buck.

[Sam-Q]

as above, they look well enough made with the only real problem that I can see if they are heavy and part of the unsprung weight. I don't know if this makes a real world difference.

[sundee]

They are heavy for a knuckle, but we are not talking about much weight,
Ill weight one today if it interests you

[Sam-Q]

Yes sure why not. Might you have a standard arm to compare with?

[jdm86gtz]

I had them and used to foul the tension rod reducing full lock, I have since changed to P/S knuckles and don't have that trouble anymore.

[lolwat]

I had them and used to foul the tension rod reducing full lock, I have since changed to P/S knuckles and don't have that trouble anymore.

run a spacer or rims that are more neg offset, thats not the arms fault

[willeE7]

what would you like to know?
same specs as PS... has another tie rod mounting hole 10mm inboard for extra lock, makes steering slightly heavier, which is only noticeable at low speed.
they are fairly good bang for buck.

Stuff like the heavier steering is handy information. I'm just looking for that extra lock. Was at full lock with my PS knuckles and really didn't feel like I was that sideways haha.
Thanks for the reply mate.


as above, they look well enough made with the only real problem that I can see if they are heavy and part of the unsprung weight. I don't know if this makes a real world difference.

The weight isn't really an issue..Like you said, no real world difference. Just wondering how well they do the job they're tasked.
Thanks for the reply.

[sleeper_13]

I run these with the t3 tie rods ( the thick thick thick ones) feel pretty good, still messing around with wheel alignment settings to get the full potential out of them, is heavier at a stand still but once youre moving theyre fine

[willeE7]

Cool man, what kind of alignments have you been using and which one's felt the best so far?
Cheers for the input mate.

[sleeper_13]

Last alignment i ran -4 camber left and right with a total of 2mm toe out, need to modify my caster arms as theyre maxed out at only a total of 3 degrees caster, car still felt good yet to feel it with more caster

[lolwat]

do you run a front sway bar??? alot of work to get the 4 degree's of Tyre flat onto the ground

[AJPS]

do you run a front sway bar??? alot of work to get the 4 degree's of Tyre flat onto the ground

agreed! depending what driving youre doing and what tyres it is quite a bit

[sleeper_13]

No front sway bar, only pulled the camber to -4 to get more caster out of the caster arms

[Jacobxxx]

Go custom knuckles

[lolwat]

No front sway bar, only pulled the camber to -4 to get more caster out of the caster arms

I ran 4 degree's, only to equal sides out(X member needs to be pulled over to 1 side and sigma LCA's) but didn't run a sway bar also, I found it really good, considering second hand continental comforts for tyres, with cut and shut steering arms(arm cut shortened/welded with no angles or anything) felt like a gokart
Setup is being changed though, i plan on leaving front sway bar out though

[jdm86gtz]

run a spacer or rims that are more neg offset, thats not the arms fault

It's not the rims fault it was the knuckles hitting the tension rod as I said above.

[willeE7]

Cheers guys, I was running -2.5 with 2mm toe out all up. I thought it was a great setting. I felt that I could have softened up my rear shocks a bit though.
Anyone ever had a cut and shut knuckle snap/bend/break? I would like to keep factory ackerman of the PS knuckles too.

[70XIN]

Holy hell you guys run tonnes of toe.

I run 0-0.5 (in or out) depending on what my wheel alignment dude feels like doing, 4 degrees of camber, maxed out stock castor arms.

I have shortened, 0 ackerman steering arms. The heavier steering stuff is only noticeable at walking/carpark speeds. The best thing BY FAR about knuckles is the quicker steering - literally makes the car 10 billion betters. The extra lock is cool, but to be honest 0 ackerman is pretty craphouse. The dragging feeling in the front tyres when you're NOT sliding is just plain disconcerting. I'll be making a different set of arms next year, and will be going back to having a little bit of ackerman, even though it means less lock, but will definitely be keeping them short.

Also, i'm yet to hear of any corolla knuckles breaking - they're a pretty solid bit of kit, and even hopeless welders seem to make them strong enough. Some of the S13/skyline guys have definitely broken them - but that comes down to their silly design, and some arms (GP sports) were cast.

[sundee]

It's all personal preference really, I run + 3mm total toe.. I really like the fast response at turn in. So the adverse affect being tyre wear, I'm happy to live with.
2.5' neg camber
8' castor, but want a little more,, just a notch

1mm total toe in on the rear
Zero camber

S13 BTW.

[AJPS]

I think you need AT LEAST 2mm total toe (in or out depends) but it keeps the steering loaded and ready, 0 toe makes it feel neither here or there

[willeE7]

Holy hell you guys run tonnes of toe.

I run 0-0.5 (in or out) depending on what my wheel alignment dude feels like doing, 4 degrees of camber, maxed out stock castor arms.

I have shortened, 0 ackerman steering arms. The heavier steering stuff is only noticeable at walking/carpark speeds. The best thing BY FAR about knuckles is the quicker steering - literally makes the car 10 billion betters. The extra lock is cool, but to be honest 0 ackerman is pretty craphouse. The dragging feeling in the front tyres when you're NOT sliding is just plain disconcerting. I'll be making a different set of arms next year, and will be going back to having a little bit of ackerman, even though it means less lock, but will definitely be keeping them short.

Also, i'm yet to hear of any corolla knuckles breaking - they're a pretty solid bit of kit, and even hopeless welders seem to make them strong enough. Some of the S13/skyline guys have definitely broken them - but that comes down to their silly design, and some arms (GP sports) were cast.

Thanks Seamus. Yeah, I don't really want to go messing with ackerman because the car is driven on the road and to be honest I don't notice it holding me back when sending the car sideways.
Can anyone tell me how short I can go with my PS knuckles before bad stuff starts happening? Binding etc?

[Rice86]

sorry to ask...but are you planning on backward entry? lol i had t3 setup and it was a lot of lock already, add another lock spacer and it would be pretty full on..add big wheels up the front and you'll be hitting shit unless at -22 offset or something

if you dont know then you dont know, so just go with what already works and has been proven over and over and over again, T3 or cut and shut special, the usual shit everyone else gets works already lol

[willeE7]

sorry to ask...but are you planning on backward entry? lol i had t3 setup and it was a lot of lock already, add another lock spacer and it would be pretty full on..add big wheels up the front and you'll be hitting shit unless at -22 offset or something

if you dont know then you dont know, so just go with what already works and has been proven over and over and over again, T3 or cut and shut special, the usual shit everyone else gets works already lol

No? I've got PS knuckles, no rack spacer and have been hitting full lock mid corner. I said I would probably purchase a rack spacer a bit further down the track but for now I want to know if either the T3 items are a good product or how short I can make my standard PS knuckles before anything bad starts happening.

[willa]

Well when you shorten them is when your Ackerman is going to start to change, depending on how too cut and shut them. the best option is to get a rack spacer BEFORE you go and mod knuckles ;)

And to keep on topic, i run t3 knucks with a quick rack, ive found i spin rarely, sure i don't back it in, but the lock is good.

[willeE7]

Well when you shorten them is when your Ackerman is going to start to change, depending on how too cut and shut them. the best option is to get a rack spacer BEFORE you go and mod knuckles ;)

And to keep on topic, i run t3 knucks with a quick rack, ive found i spin rarely, sure i don't back it in, but the lock is good.

It's possible to keep standard ackerman after shortening them? Or no?

Cheers for that, Will.

[willa]

Yeh man it's achievable

[willeE7]

I thought so. Cheers.