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View Full Version : 4age ke70 will not turn over



KAYE70
30th April 2013, 08:45 PM
Hey all, I have just put a big port 4age into my ke70, I can't recall myself touching any of the body wiring of the car, I've hooked the starter motor up the same way it was hooked up with the 4k in it,

I have a seperate loom running all my engine (injectors,coil,dizzy etc) I have no problem with spark and injector pulse etc

My problem is I can't get my starter motor to crank over,I can hear/feel starter motor relay click, I have constant power at starter motor main terminal and power at solenoid whilst trying to crank

Here's the engine bay.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/30/bere5emy.jpg

I have Hooked up good earths, engine bay was recently painted, I made sure it has good connection
(scratched paint off where earth is bolted to body) earth cables go from
negative battery-engine block
negative battery-body of engine bay

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/30/y2ate3yn.jpg


I need help identifying the following wires as to what they are for

#1
These two hang off near fuse box/wires that come out of front quarter panel

One is black and red single wire

Other one is twin pin plug,
White/green wire & white/red wire

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/30/8eny6any.jpg

#2
Don't remember wire colour for this one but was hanging down near bottom of fuse box, possibly something for alternator ?

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/30/ma4e6uta.jpg

Any help appreciated !

rianwest
30th April 2013, 09:37 PM
- Black/orange trace looks like +12V for the coil, but it's on the wrong side of the engine bay for a KE70? From what I've seen, black/orange trace is usually ignition related on Toyotas.
- White/green trace and white/red trace is probably the idle cut-off solenoid for the original 4K carb.
- The plug in the second picture looks like the alternator wiring. If it's a big thick white wire and a yellow wire it probably is from the alternator, I think white will be the charge wire, yellow will be charge light wire.

KAYE70
30th April 2013, 09:43 PM
- Black/orange trace looks like +12V for the coil, but it's on the wrong side of the engine bay for a KE70? From what I've seen, black/orange trace is usually ignition related on Toyotas.
- White/green trace and white/red trace is probably the idle cut-off solenoid for the original 4K carb.
- The plug in the second picture looks like the alternator wiring. If it's a big thick white wire and a yellow wire it probably is from the alternator, I think white will be the charge wire, yellow will be charge light wire.

I'm more unsure than you mate haha,

I'm 90% pretty sure the last one is alternator wiring

I just want to know if any of these plugs have anything to do with my starter motor not cranking

rianwest
30th April 2013, 09:58 PM
I'm more unsure than you mate haha,

I'm 90% pretty sure the last one is alternator wiring

I just want to know if any of these plugs have anything to do with my starter motor not cranking

I doubt they would effect the starter motor. Assuming your battery has enough charge, maybe you're starter motor is worn out?
What you can do is install a relay for the starter to get more power: use the starter signal from the ignition barrel as a trigger for the relay, and run a new wire from your battery to the relay, then from the relay to the starter solenoid.

KAYE70
30th April 2013, 10:02 PM
I doubt they would effect the starter motor. Assuming your battery has enough charge, maybe you're starter motor is worn out?
What you can do is install a relay for the starter to get more power: use the starter signal from the ignition barrel as a trigger for the relay, and run a new wire from your battery to the relay, then from the relay to the starter solenoid.

All internals of starter have been replaced last week, I tested it out if the car and it works perfect,

I took a battery from my other car that's almost brand new but still nothing

KAYE70
30th April 2013, 10:03 PM
Can't really be botherd to set up more relays etc, want it simple and just to work asif it was still 4k

adds
30th April 2013, 11:29 PM
Last pic is definitely alternator wire maybe the sence. Not 100% but I think the black with orange trace is stater signal. I remember I had the same issue when I did my conversion had me scratching my head for hours. Testing with a multimeter all was ok but never worked. I ended up running a new wire and it worked fine. That told me the old wire had broken somewhere but checking with the multimeter came across fine. Maybe just run a new wire?

KAYE70
1st May 2013, 08:28 AM
Last pic is definitely alternator wire maybe the sence. Not 100% but I think the black with orange trace is stater signal. I remember I had the same issue when I did my conversion had me scratching my head for hours. Testing with a multimeter all was ok but never worked. I ended up running a new wire and it worked fine. That told me the old wire had broken somewhere but checking with the multimeter came across fine. Maybe just run a new wire?

when i plug that black and orange wire into the signal wire plug, no lights come on dash with ignition on, only come on cranking position, ill post pictures as to what i mean this afternoon

slide86
1st May 2013, 09:00 AM
Orange and black IS NOT starter wire.

Only the black with white trace is starter circuit.

Here is a trick you can try:

Get a large flat head screwdriver and manually bridge the spade terminal on the starter to the 12v cable from the battery to the starter, the starter will turn over, confirming that its operating.
Once you have confirmed this, then the signal circuit is pretty much all thats left. The starting system is quite basic.

LittleRedSpirit
1st May 2013, 09:14 AM
And you do need a full 12v at the signal wire to turn a car over.

Sometimes a dirty old starter will act erratically. You can have it cleaned and contacts replaced pretty cheaply.

KAYE70
1st May 2013, 01:30 PM
The starter motor is all fresh, has had contacts and brushes changed last week,

I tested the starter motor out of the car and it worked,

I have constant power at the spade terminal, and power at solenoid plug when cranking,

Not sure how much power tho, only used a testlight, will check power with a multimeter tonight

rianwest
1st May 2013, 06:02 PM
I have constant power at the spade terminal, and power at solenoid plug when cranking,


Spade terminal shouldn't be constant power, that should only have 12 volts when the key is in the 'start' position. The spade terminal is the solenoid terminal.
Did you try the screwdriver trick? If that doesn't work then you either have a damaged starter cable or a shitty earth, assuming there is nothing wrong with your starter motor.
Also check that your engine will turn over by hand.

KAYE70
1st May 2013, 06:21 PM
Spade terminal shouldn't be constant power, that should only have 12 volts when the key is in the 'start' position. The spade terminal is the solenoid terminal.
Did you try the screwdriver trick? If that doesn't work then you either have a damaged starter cable or a shitty earth, assuming there is nothing wrong with your starter motor.
Also check that your engine will turn over by hand.



I meant the bolt terminal, the main thick power cable one, there is constant power there,

At the solenoid spade terminal there is only power whilst cranking as it should be,


The motor turns over fine by hand and the starter motor works fine out of the car, I thought it would be earth problem but I've got 3 new earths hooked up, from battery to the block, from batter to the body of car, and from bell housing bolt right near the starter motor to the body, ill go over everything tonight with a multi and let you know how I go

KAYE70
1st May 2013, 08:30 PM
Okay so I found a short, don't know what the wire is but I'm sure it's the problem because when I wiggle it, it cuts out all the dash lights and stuff, only thing that will work when it's shorted is haZards and headlights,

Here's the pic

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/01/7a9ygevu.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/01/6yse9e3e.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/01/dyrebepa.jpg

Ill fix the short and let you peeps know how it goes

rianwest
1st May 2013, 09:09 PM
Those are your fusible links from the original KE70 loom, they are probably blown rather than shorted out. Two of the fusible links go to the ignition barrel (AM1, AM2 I think), and the other one bypasses the ignition barrel and goes to headlights. If they are blown you can ditch them and use a newer set of fusible links like this:

https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQf4GHWhGH-Iymu43ionX9pBboiwB3x-MgKrSxk43DXGl4Rw4WHFw

KAYE70
1st May 2013, 09:36 PM
Those are your fusible links from the original KE70 loom, they are they are probably blown rather than shorted out. Two of the fusible links go to the ignition barrel (AM1, AM2 I think), and the other one bypasses the ignition barrel and goes to headlights. If they are blown you can ditch them and use a newer set of fusible links like this:

https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQf4GHWhGH-Iymu43ionX9pBboiwB3x-MgKrSxk43DXGl4Rw4WHFw

There's no fuseible links on my car :s not that box in that picture, the 3wires come straight off the + and into a plug, then go down into the fuse box somewhere

rianwest
1st May 2013, 10:25 PM
Those 3 wires coming off the positive terminal that immediately go into a plug are indeed fusible links, hence the plug so you can easily change them when they blow (not anymore because it's almost impossible to buy that fusible link wire). But it's also easy to replace them with a more modern fuse setup.

KAYE70
1st May 2013, 10:31 PM
Those 3 wires coming off the positive terminal that immediately go into a plug are indeed fusible links, hence the plug so you can easily change them when they blow (not anymore because it's almost impossible to buy that fusible link wire). But it's also easy to replace them with a more modern fuse setup.

I was just gonna replace the wires myself, I got the right connectors and shit to use to I can still use the plug, should I setup fuses ? If so what sort of amp fuse? 30? 40?

Ktas
1st May 2013, 11:21 PM
was it originally an auto?

rianwest
2nd May 2013, 12:24 AM
Yes set up fuses. Get yourself a wiring diagram and a multimeter and find out which fusible link goes where. AM1 fusible link is 80amp (starter motor, accessories etc), AM2 fusible link is 30amp (ignition, EFI etc), the other one is headlights etc, maybe go with a 30amp fuse for this. Or just go snag a fusible link setup of a newer Corolla and wire it in, which is probably the easier and neater solution.

Like this:

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/5/0/1/9/507551.jpg

KAYE70
2nd May 2013, 02:24 PM
was it originally an auto?

Nah was a 5 speed manual

KAYE70
3rd May 2013, 07:32 PM
Okay so I just ran it without fuses for the time being nd it's cranking over :) thanks for all the help and suggestions people :)