Starting 4AGE Bigport for the first time in a while...

[Driftspec]

Hi all, long time no see!

Sadly the AE86 of mine doesn't get much of a run these days as I have a proper daily for the 100KM daily trek to and from work. Last time it had a drive was about 6-7 months ago when it did such a drive. Only problem I noticed was it wasn't charging properly, but I'm putting that down to a bad battery.

Long story short, its time to fire her up again. Will get my hands on a new battery, but what else do I need to start it up again? I at least want to turn it over before taking to to a trusted mechanic for fluid change and look over.

Am am prepared to throw octane boost/injector cleaner into it but what else do I need to do?

[Jimmee1990]

I would put a small squirt of oil down each of the spark plug holes so the rings don't lock up, and generally when storing engines for long periods of time it's best to take the cams out so all the valves are closed and massively overfill them with oil. Stops the bores and rings rusting.

[Matt]

6-7 months isn't long

[Dylan]

Shouldn't need to do anything else

[Driftspec]

Sweet, my only thought is stale fuel but popping some injector cleaner in and letting it prime itself should be ok yeah?

[Admiral Ackbar]

I at least want to turn it over before taking to to a trusted mechanic for fluid change and look over.



If you need a "trusted mechanic" to do a fluid change you should buy a Hyundai I30 or something.


I would put a small squirt of oil down each of the spark plug holes so the rings don't lock up, and generally when storing engines for long periods of time it's best to take the cams out so all the valves are closed and massively overfill them with oil. Stops the bores and rings rusting.

Rings are unlikely to be rusted after 6 months unless it had a blown head gasket before it was parked up. Squirting some oil in each cylinder is not a bad idea though because it will improve ring seal and make it easier to start. I use a 5:1 mixture of unleaded and 2 stroke oil. 2 stroke oil is good because it burns cleanly and won't foul the plugs. It's also a good idea to do this before leaving the engine sit for a long time.


Sweet, my only thought is stale fuel but popping some injector cleaner in and letting it prime itself should be ok yeah?

If fuel sits for a while the light fractions/volatiles/good stuff evaporates. Add something with some octane booster in it. Also check the oil on the dipstick to make sure it isn't too thick/sludgy. Don't try to start it on a cold morning. Disconnect the coil then crank the engine until the oil pressure gauge starts to move, then reconnect the coil and start the engine.

[Driftspec]

If you need a "trusted mechanic" to do a fluid change you should buy a Hyundai I30 or something.

Technically I'm also a Prius driver nowadays... Can do a fluid change myself but a) don't have the time and b) there's a bunch of other stuff that needs to happen with the car anyway so happy for someone else to tackle it.


Rings are unlikely to be rusted after 6 months unless it had a blown head gasket before it was parked up. Squirting some oil in each cylinder is not a bad idea though because it will improve ring seal and make it easier to start. I use a 5:1 mixture of unleaded and 2 stroke oil. 2 stroke oil is good because it burns cleanly and won't foul the plugs. It's also a good idea to do this before leaving the engine sit for a long time.


If fuel sits for a while the light fractions/volatiles/good stuff evaporates. Add something with some octane booster in it. Also check the oil on the dipstick to make sure it isn't too thick/sludgy. Don't try to start it on a cold morning. Disconnect the coil then crank the engine until the oil pressure gauge starts to move, then reconnect the coil and start the engine.

Excellent, thanks - that's good advice. Was going to try and get stuck in before it gets too cool up here. Will try this weekend!

[Driftspec]

Alright...

Good news: topped up oil last weekend, car turns over and has oil pressure!

Bad news: engine fires for a few seconds and stops. After a lot of checking it seems the fuel pump is toast. I've been doing some reading and dropping the fuel tank shouldn't be too hard (not much fuel on it) but the question is, has anyone bought an OEM replacement from Repco or similar? Or am I better to get a pump from another model? Google hasn't helped me much here.

[tottacrolla]

Alright...

Good news: topped up oil last weekend, car turns over and has oil pressure!

Bad news: engine fires for a few seconds and stops. After a lot of checking it seems the fuel pump is toast. I've been doing some reading and dropping the fuel tank shouldn't be too hard (not much fuel on it) but the question is, has anyone bought an OEM replacement from Repco or similar? Or am I better to get a pump from another model? Google hasn't helped me much here.

Have you flushed the old fuel out ?
If not you might want to try flushing out the old fuel (easiest but not the safest way is by taking off the fuel feed at the fuel rail, ignition on and dumping the fuel into a can) otherwise I think there is a drain on the fuel tank.
Fresh fuel and try that.

[dove grey 64]

Depends on what fuel tank you have. Injected or carb tank

[Driftspec]

Managed to pick up a new pump this morning, so disaster averted (JDM tank Dove)

Will try swapping it out this afternoon and see what happens. Given it hasn't been making any noises I'm sure its the pump that's gone bad. If it isn't well no big loss, just more down time.

Cheers!

[Matt]

What makes u certain the pump is toast and it isn't wiring or something like that. I'd hard wire the pump first before concluding 100% it is toast.

[Driftspec]

What makes u certain the pump is toast and it isn't wiring or something like that. I'd hard wire the pump first before concluding 100% it is toast.

Did that on Friday (found a post of yours from memory) - wired 12V to the plug, no noise or pressure in the lines. Checked voltages out of the COR and they are correct.

If it's not the pump I won't be too concerned because I don't know the age of the old one, so I'd probably be replacing it at some stage.

Gonna drop the tank tomorrow and swap it out - between an original AE86 engine repair manual and old posts from here hopefully its not too hard.

[Driftspec]

Thanks for the tips guys - dropped the tank this afternoon, swapped out the fuel pump and she started beautifully first go. She's back!

[Matt]

E10 i think has allot to answer for in terms of corroded pumps and rusty tanks. Had me questioning if it was the pump because it would start and then cut out which is most commonly the FP pin on the ecu not being connected to the open circuit relay correctly or someone blowing the transistor off the board by giving that pin 12v.

Good to see the car is running again.

[Driftspec]

Yeah I never touch E10 in the Sprinter Matt, always give it good 98 octane. One of the local fuel stations apparently has 100 octane so I'll go and check that out when it's road ready.