stahlz_ae86
21st April 2014, 10:02 PM
Previous credit for the info of this thread goes to somebody who's done it before on Toymods, I think it was Rob? but the link wasn't active any more so it's time to get the info up permanently again, and hopefully in more detail.
Parts required
XT130 struts (or RT132)
XT130 hubs (or RT132)
MA61 slotted and vented discs or RA60 (DBA part number DBA 146) (RDA part number RDA146S)
MX62 Cressida Calipers (same bolt centres as XT130, must be from this model)
Other goodies I'm using with the upgrade (preference of what I think are the better options)
AE86 Power steering knuckles (OEM)
But like this if you're lazy and want off the shelf...
https://technotoytuning.com/toyota/ae86/steering-knuckles-ae86-corolla
AJPS 40mm RCA's
http://www.ajps.com.au/parts/rca_ncrca.php
T3 Weld-on LCA kit (XT130 LCA's will correct the positive camber introduced by the XT130 struts if you're retaining the original strut tops)
https://technotoytuning.com/toyota/ae86/weld-lower-control-arm-kit-ae86-corolla
Shockworks coilovers (after dummying up my brake upgrade, Shockworks had their engineer weld the XT130 stub axles on to their AE86 coilover kit)
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/forumdisplay.php/129-Shockworks
https://www.facebook.com/shockworks
Basic info,
This is a good upgrade for a few reasons
-Bigger stub axle and bearings
-Bigger diameter strut than KE70/AE71, great for anyone going for sleeve kit type coilovers as the common AE86 KYB upgrades can be used (365077 is my pick of the bunch if you're going down that route)
-Bigger vented brakes (258mm diameter x 20mm) Stock KE70 brakes are solid 218 X 12.7
-Fits under 14's with no need for spacers, even the cool jap stuff
-Supra/Celica disc bolts directly to the back of the XT130 hub, so no re-drilling or re-bore required = direct off the shelf rotor replacement when needed
-Corrects the steering knuckle restrictions caused by converting to XT130 struts with the solid rotors, eliminates the disc fouling on the end of LCA due to a disc height of 26mm instead of the solid at 42mm
XT130 calipers mount to the rear side of the strut ears, they have through holes, they are fastened by bolts through the holes in to the strut ears which have tapped M12 threads.
On an MX62, the calipers bolt to the struts the other way around. The MX62 calipers have the M12 tapped threads in them and the struts have the through holes.
To use the MX62 calipers in conjunction with the XT130 struts, XT130 hubs and MA61 discs, basic modification needs to be done. The ears on the XT130 struts were manufactured to suit the XT130 calipers of course, so the front of the ears still have the rough casting as Toyota never intended that surface to be used for calipers. Basically all that needs to be done is flatten them down, equally to each other, and use spacers between the caliper and strut ears to get the caliper in the correct position in relation to the disc. From memory it was spaced 12mm when the remaining "ear thickness" was 10mm but I will confirm this next time I do this modification (doing it again for my bro's KE70 pano soon). Longer M12 fine pitch bolts are required due to the spacing.
On to the how-to now...
I'll show you the way I've done it, because I'm fussy and think it should be done this way. Please note, that it can be done with an angle grinder to flatten the strut ears, my cousin did it that way for his TA22. So don't be scared off this upgrade if you don't have access to a mill.
First, I welded a bit of 100mm x 6mm flat to a bit of 100mm x 50mm tube steel. Drilled 2 sets of holes the correct spacing for the strut ears to bolt to the flat. Once clamped in vice I faced the flat off so it's true to the cutter.
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/2/9/5/525671.jpg (http://s247.photobucket.com/user/stahlz_ae86/media/014_zps2879238d.jpg.html)
Now that you have your working surface true to the cutter, you can bolt the strut to your jig by its ears with a pair of bolts from underneath. Use washers under the heads of the bolts to space them down low enough that the milling cutter wont touch them.
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/2/9/5/525672.jpg (http://s247.photobucket.com/user/stahlz_ae86/media/015_zps51196d5a.jpg.html)
Use the milling cutter to flatten the face of the ears down equally.
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/2/9/5/525673.jpg (http://s247.photobucket.com/user/stahlz_ae86/media/016_zps4491dc53.jpg.html)
Make sure you cut back enough so whatever outside diameter of spacer you are going to use will fit.
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/2/9/5/525674.jpg (http://s247.photobucket.com/user/stahlz_ae86/media/018_zpsa013777d.jpg.html)
That's all i can be bothered posting tonight, I will add more info and pictures when I do it again for my brothers KE70.
Parts required
XT130 struts (or RT132)
XT130 hubs (or RT132)
MA61 slotted and vented discs or RA60 (DBA part number DBA 146) (RDA part number RDA146S)
MX62 Cressida Calipers (same bolt centres as XT130, must be from this model)
Other goodies I'm using with the upgrade (preference of what I think are the better options)
AE86 Power steering knuckles (OEM)
But like this if you're lazy and want off the shelf...
https://technotoytuning.com/toyota/ae86/steering-knuckles-ae86-corolla
AJPS 40mm RCA's
http://www.ajps.com.au/parts/rca_ncrca.php
T3 Weld-on LCA kit (XT130 LCA's will correct the positive camber introduced by the XT130 struts if you're retaining the original strut tops)
https://technotoytuning.com/toyota/ae86/weld-lower-control-arm-kit-ae86-corolla
Shockworks coilovers (after dummying up my brake upgrade, Shockworks had their engineer weld the XT130 stub axles on to their AE86 coilover kit)
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/forumdisplay.php/129-Shockworks
https://www.facebook.com/shockworks
Basic info,
This is a good upgrade for a few reasons
-Bigger stub axle and bearings
-Bigger diameter strut than KE70/AE71, great for anyone going for sleeve kit type coilovers as the common AE86 KYB upgrades can be used (365077 is my pick of the bunch if you're going down that route)
-Bigger vented brakes (258mm diameter x 20mm) Stock KE70 brakes are solid 218 X 12.7
-Fits under 14's with no need for spacers, even the cool jap stuff
-Supra/Celica disc bolts directly to the back of the XT130 hub, so no re-drilling or re-bore required = direct off the shelf rotor replacement when needed
-Corrects the steering knuckle restrictions caused by converting to XT130 struts with the solid rotors, eliminates the disc fouling on the end of LCA due to a disc height of 26mm instead of the solid at 42mm
XT130 calipers mount to the rear side of the strut ears, they have through holes, they are fastened by bolts through the holes in to the strut ears which have tapped M12 threads.
On an MX62, the calipers bolt to the struts the other way around. The MX62 calipers have the M12 tapped threads in them and the struts have the through holes.
To use the MX62 calipers in conjunction with the XT130 struts, XT130 hubs and MA61 discs, basic modification needs to be done. The ears on the XT130 struts were manufactured to suit the XT130 calipers of course, so the front of the ears still have the rough casting as Toyota never intended that surface to be used for calipers. Basically all that needs to be done is flatten them down, equally to each other, and use spacers between the caliper and strut ears to get the caliper in the correct position in relation to the disc. From memory it was spaced 12mm when the remaining "ear thickness" was 10mm but I will confirm this next time I do this modification (doing it again for my bro's KE70 pano soon). Longer M12 fine pitch bolts are required due to the spacing.
On to the how-to now...
I'll show you the way I've done it, because I'm fussy and think it should be done this way. Please note, that it can be done with an angle grinder to flatten the strut ears, my cousin did it that way for his TA22. So don't be scared off this upgrade if you don't have access to a mill.
First, I welded a bit of 100mm x 6mm flat to a bit of 100mm x 50mm tube steel. Drilled 2 sets of holes the correct spacing for the strut ears to bolt to the flat. Once clamped in vice I faced the flat off so it's true to the cutter.
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/2/9/5/525671.jpg (http://s247.photobucket.com/user/stahlz_ae86/media/014_zps2879238d.jpg.html)
Now that you have your working surface true to the cutter, you can bolt the strut to your jig by its ears with a pair of bolts from underneath. Use washers under the heads of the bolts to space them down low enough that the milling cutter wont touch them.
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/2/9/5/525672.jpg (http://s247.photobucket.com/user/stahlz_ae86/media/015_zps51196d5a.jpg.html)
Use the milling cutter to flatten the face of the ears down equally.
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/2/9/5/525673.jpg (http://s247.photobucket.com/user/stahlz_ae86/media/016_zps4491dc53.jpg.html)
Make sure you cut back enough so whatever outside diameter of spacer you are going to use will fit.
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/2/9/5/525674.jpg (http://s247.photobucket.com/user/stahlz_ae86/media/018_zpsa013777d.jpg.html)
That's all i can be bothered posting tonight, I will add more info and pictures when I do it again for my brothers KE70.