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silva
16th August 2014, 03:27 PM
heap more questions on page 2,3


hey guys doing a 16v big port into my ke70 just have a few questions wit the injector plugs
so there 2 wires going onto each plug
yellow - ( ECU power feed )
blue - (fuel injector trigger signal )

okay so when I get my voltmeter I should be getting 12v from the yellow wire? and 0v from the blue wire?
cause I changed the injector plugs over to different ones and I am getting 12v from each plug pin! but I cut the plug off and im getting 12v from yellow and 0v from the blue? so I think i have to change them back over?

and would this be why my ecu keeps smoking? cheers

Matt
16th August 2014, 04:15 PM
once the smoke leaves your ecu all the magic leaves with it that can not be put back in...

One side of the injectors has ignition power and the other side is earthed by the ecu itself when the injectors are meant to fire. Pretty sure the 16v injectors are batch fired and if u have 1 connected you will measure feedback voltage on the remaining injectors.

TBH it sounds like you will need a new ecu especially if it was smoking.

check you haven't shorted the wires on one of the plugs together as well.

silva
16th August 2014, 05:08 PM
yeah I brought a new ecu!
so with the injector wires
and iv had to wire in a relay of the IG for the power injectors
yellow - 12v thru all plugs
blue wire - I am getting 0.02v witch would be a pulse?

silva
16th August 2014, 05:09 PM
then I tapped the the tvis power into the injector number 1 power line

Matt
16th August 2014, 05:39 PM
0.02v could be feedback voltage... which is normal, the best way to measure the pulse is with a led or noid light and watch it flash. As the injectors pulse 30x a second etc.

silva
16th August 2014, 05:53 PM
yeah okay when the plugs off the injector it reads
yellow - 12v
blue - 0.02v

when th injector is plug is pluged into the injector it reads
yellow - 12v
blue - 12v


so im unsure about this

Matt
16th August 2014, 06:19 PM
If 1 injector is connected you will see the voltage on both wires... bit like a light globe if u measure the negative side u will see a voltage until it is earthed.

silva
16th August 2014, 06:47 PM
okay ill pluged them all up and im getting power to both sides of the injector and all the way down to the plugs for the ecu?

so im getting power at

plug 10
pin #10 - fuel injector trigger signal ( 12v )
pin #20 - fuel injector trigger signal ( 12v )
pin BF - ecu power feed [ shared with injectors ] ( 12v )

there is a loom earth and then a earth off the relay for the injector power?

the ecu isn't pluged in

silva
16th August 2014, 07:28 PM
also im getting 0.02v of the earth pins

silva
16th August 2014, 08:14 PM
that's where im getting all power

Matt
16th August 2014, 09:26 PM
The pins #10 and #20 are the "negative side" of the injectors which is normal to see power on if you have 1 or more injectors connected. Disconnect all the injector plugs and confirm there is no power to be 100% sure. Another check u can do is connect a wire to the #10 or #20 pin and put a fuse in the middle and connect it to earth with an injector connected. It should click open and attempt to spray fuel without blowing the fuse.

BF pin should also have 12v power when the ignition is in the run position too.

The earth for the ecu is the eyelet connector with about 4+ brown wires that bolts to the inlet manifold.

Think of the open circuit relay as having 2 seperate halves. 1 relay which only operates during the cranking position (ie starter motor operating) which when power is applied to the black/white wire it runs the fuel pump. For that reason the Open Circuit relay has an earth wire the white / black wire. That earth is used for nothing else.

The other half which operates whilst there is manifold pressure ( ie. engine running) where the ecu provides the earth from the FP pin to the green/red wire of the open circuit relay. The remaining power to the relay is delivered from the EFI main relay output which happens when you turn the ignition on.

Hope that helps, ask as many questions as you need to be certain...

silva
16th August 2014, 09:39 PM
yeah okay cool I uploaded the wrong pic this has all the parts im getting power when the IG is on!
and yep those brown wires are bolted to the intake,

Oh!!!
I think I know why my other ecu burnt out I have a 12v IG wire ran off relay going into pin W on plug 14 and that to control ( trigger for efi waring/ diagnosis )

so that souldnt be getting 12v?

silva
18th August 2014, 07:20 PM
its all sorted!!! have fuel and spark

slide86
18th August 2014, 08:35 PM
The loom should be earthed on the inlet manifold, its a ring terminal with about 4 brown wires. This is what earths the ecu and injectors.

When the ecu triggers the signal for the injectors it doesnt send a positive power supply to the the injectors. All it does is ground that wire which completes the circuit and actuates the injector.

So, by you testing for power on the blue wire wont actually prove anything as its not supposed to feed a 12v signal TO the injector. It only has 12v when the ECU grounds that wire and allows the 12v to "flow" from the yellow wire through the blue, through the ecu out the other side and grounds on the inlet manifold.

The way to test if the injector circuit is firing is to use a noid light which will provide the same load as an injector and flash when the ecu grounds the circuit.

Matt
19th August 2014, 05:59 AM
You would blow the transistor off the board if you did that. For the warning light use the a pin as of you would an earth for the globe. Ie. ignition power to the +ve side and what would be the negative side goes to the w pin.


You also must have a low wattage globe too, I use little led globes from jaycar

silva
19th August 2014, 04:23 PM
yeah ok cool, I just tidy up the wiring and found I didn't have a relay plugged in, but I fixed that, but a led in the injector plug flashes!!
and I also have spark!!
soo....

so I set the motor to TDC and lined the dizzy up to the markings and it will just cough and some time blow flames out of the extractors ( exhaust isn't connected up )

but the motor wont kick!!!
best way to go about this!

Matt
20th August 2014, 09:18 AM
Could be a couple of things, most likely timing. When you put the dizzy in u should be able to see the dimple in the cam through the oil filler cap.

Also so ensure the cam timing is correct too and that you are getting fuel flow

silva
20th August 2014, 01:16 PM
Yeah okay cool, so I got my mechanic to come check it out! It's sparking and fuelling prefect!
It's just doesn't want to go!
It will sound like it's just about to start but it doesn't!
The starter motor doesn't move very fast? I have it connect up to a relay like the diagram on SAM Q page!

I have spark and fuel and all the timing is right!
It just won't start!
Everything is plug in
- map
- dizzy
- coil
- dizzy
- map
- plug on the Intake

What wires would cause what for it not to start?

Matt
20th August 2014, 01:51 PM
Check the cca cold cranking amps of the battery and also earths. Should have one from the block to the chassis, one from the batt to the chassis and one on the drivers side to the chassis.

Also try jump starting with another car if u can.

Matt
21st August 2014, 07:21 AM
What colour are your injectors? You may need a resistor pack in them pending which fwd car u got it out of.

silva
21st August 2014, 10:22 AM
Aw yeah man it's a rwd ae86 loom!!
And Ecu!
I'm pretty sure the injectors are all good and my proplem why it isn't sparking!

My exhaust timing is 180 out :(

Matt
21st August 2014, 02:46 PM
You can swap leads around to get it to run.

Just be mindful one ae82 ( 3rd generation) came with a particular injector that needed a resistor pack. Has bitten a few people in the past.

silva
21st August 2014, 04:22 PM
yeah really? both cams are moving the same way so the values wouldn't let air in and out at the right time?
oh and how sick are my injector rail spacers? ill replace them with copper pipe one day!
and on some bad news!! I went to take my rocker covers off I place the bolt on the windscreen vent, I went to go move my hand a knocked one nut down the oil return -_-and fell into the sump so now its time to take the sump off :(

Matt
21st August 2014, 04:52 PM
U might get lucky and have it drop out when u drain the oil.

silva
21st August 2014, 06:45 PM
U might get lucky and have it drop out when u drain the oil.

nar the nut is bigger then the drain hole :(

silva
22nd August 2014, 12:17 AM
So on the weekend it's to lift the motor up drop the crossmember! And get this bolt!!