Jrad
19th January 2016, 05:41 PM
Wanted to update this thread and keep it as a bit of a universal "FWD water system" thread.
Hi, thought I would combine a bit of info, with a question. In case others have arrived at the point I am at. It seems to be only missing piece of widely available information.
This pertains to running the AE92 FWD water system, including the fwd alternator bracket and top water hose. My car runs carbs, so I don't need some fittings such as ICV lines or sensors.
If you are going to run this set-up with EFI, I believe all that needs adding is a 1/4" barb in the remote thermostat.
Hoses used are 5/8" and (pending size) for the water pump to thermostat housing.
This image floats around a lot. I've followed it as a set up - very straight forward.
You cut the pipe from the back of the water pump short and make up a bracket to hold the remote thermostat in place.
36544
I was having issues hitting the top water outlet - running a Kameari manifold. The Kameari kit comes with a water outlet - however it is for use with a RWD alternator setup.
3654136546
So, I sacrificed the use of the coolant temp sensor in place of running the line there. This can be re-introduced with a temp sensor elsewhere if needed.After a bit of brainstorming I came up with this as the most economical solution.
I have cut and filed flat the rear outlet to feed back into the thermostat. Being carbed, I can use the threaded temp gauge outlet and put a right angled fitting in. Alternatively, I can put a hole in the underside. Or put a gauge in-line somewhere.
Made up a plate to suit and it clears.
364853648436483364863648736482
Had a light porting so as to not restrict water flow too much.
The hole where the coolant temp sensor comes out is an M16 thread. I'm running a Speedflow M16 to 5/8" adapter and a 5/8" 90 degree bend.
36542
This is for the heater bypass. If you have a Redline carb manifold, you shouldn't have this issue. Your issue will be with the brake booster. In which case you can use an EP91 Starlet booster (smaller and thinner) or run booster-less (not-recommended) with an adapter.
This has allowed me to run the FWD alternator set up too, saving money on converting to all rwd system.
36543
My question is - where do the heater lines run in regards to the rear outlet on the head, heater tap and the outlet on the thermostat?
A, B or C?
Revised:
A is wrong. B or C should both work.
36545
Found this image which also helps explain it a little.
36547
Thanks.
Hi, thought I would combine a bit of info, with a question. In case others have arrived at the point I am at. It seems to be only missing piece of widely available information.
This pertains to running the AE92 FWD water system, including the fwd alternator bracket and top water hose. My car runs carbs, so I don't need some fittings such as ICV lines or sensors.
If you are going to run this set-up with EFI, I believe all that needs adding is a 1/4" barb in the remote thermostat.
Hoses used are 5/8" and (pending size) for the water pump to thermostat housing.
This image floats around a lot. I've followed it as a set up - very straight forward.
You cut the pipe from the back of the water pump short and make up a bracket to hold the remote thermostat in place.
36544
I was having issues hitting the top water outlet - running a Kameari manifold. The Kameari kit comes with a water outlet - however it is for use with a RWD alternator setup.
3654136546
So, I sacrificed the use of the coolant temp sensor in place of running the line there. This can be re-introduced with a temp sensor elsewhere if needed.After a bit of brainstorming I came up with this as the most economical solution.
I have cut and filed flat the rear outlet to feed back into the thermostat. Being carbed, I can use the threaded temp gauge outlet and put a right angled fitting in. Alternatively, I can put a hole in the underside. Or put a gauge in-line somewhere.
Made up a plate to suit and it clears.
364853648436483364863648736482
Had a light porting so as to not restrict water flow too much.
The hole where the coolant temp sensor comes out is an M16 thread. I'm running a Speedflow M16 to 5/8" adapter and a 5/8" 90 degree bend.
36542
This is for the heater bypass. If you have a Redline carb manifold, you shouldn't have this issue. Your issue will be with the brake booster. In which case you can use an EP91 Starlet booster (smaller and thinner) or run booster-less (not-recommended) with an adapter.
This has allowed me to run the FWD alternator set up too, saving money on converting to all rwd system.
36543
My question is - where do the heater lines run in regards to the rear outlet on the head, heater tap and the outlet on the thermostat?
A, B or C?
Revised:
A is wrong. B or C should both work.
36545
Found this image which also helps explain it a little.
36547
Thanks.