Running the AE92 rwd water system in ADM ae86 info

[Jrad]

Wanted to update this thread and keep it as a bit of a universal "FWD water system" thread.

Hi, thought I would combine a bit of info, with a question. In case others have arrived at the point I am at. It seems to be only missing piece of widely available information.

This pertains to running the AE92 FWD water system, including the fwd alternator bracket and top water hose. My car runs carbs, so I don't need some fittings such as ICV lines or sensors.

If you are going to run this set-up with EFI, I believe all that needs adding is a 1/4" barb in the remote thermostat.
Hoses used are 5/8" and (pending size) for the water pump to thermostat housing.

This image floats around a lot. I've followed it as a set up - very straight forward.
You cut the pipe from the back of the water pump short and make up a bracket to hold the remote thermostat in place.
36544

I was having issues hitting the top water outlet - running a Kameari manifold. The Kameari kit comes with a water outlet - however it is for use with a RWD alternator setup.
3654136546


So, I sacrificed the use of the coolant temp sensor in place of running the line there. This can be re-introduced with a temp sensor elsewhere if needed.After a bit of brainstorming I came up with this as the most economical solution.

I have cut and filed flat the rear outlet to feed back into the thermostat. Being carbed, I can use the threaded temp gauge outlet and put a right angled fitting in. Alternatively, I can put a hole in the underside. Or put a gauge in-line somewhere.

Made up a plate to suit and it clears.

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Had a light porting so as to not restrict water flow too much.
The hole where the coolant temp sensor comes out is an M16 thread. I'm running a Speedflow M16 to 5/8" adapter and a 5/8" 90 degree bend.
36542

This is for the heater bypass. If you have a Redline carb manifold, you shouldn't have this issue. Your issue will be with the brake booster. In which case you can use an EP91 Starlet booster (smaller and thinner) or run booster-less (not-recommended) with an adapter.

This has allowed me to run the FWD alternator set up too, saving money on converting to all rwd system.
36543

My question is - where do the heater lines run in regards to the rear outlet on the head, heater tap and the outlet on the thermostat?
A, B or C?

Revised:
A is wrong. B or C should both work.
36545

Found this image which also helps explain it a little.
36547

Thanks.

[dove grey 64]

C, pretty certain but i could be wrong

[Hen may possibly be a nut]

Both B and C should work. They are the same setup, just with the flow through the heater tap and heater core reversed.

I've run C for ever without problem.
Hen

[Jrad]

Spoke with Sam Qu today whilst getting parts and he said B. But after speaking with him and getting some knowledge about how it actually all works - yes, either should.
As water is running out hot from the back of the head and should work either way.

I may update this thread to a general AE92 cooling guide for the 4age for others that need help.

[4doors]

This is a really good write up dude. Surely will help many.


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[djscheppy]

Great work mate. Will save a lot of people a lot of time.

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[Stolic]

Jeez that pic gets around more than I do lol

If anyone is interested, here's a better pic of how the T-stat housing is mounted to the block using a thin piece of stainless
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/1/7/3/7/1/559414.jpg (http://s755.photobucket.com/user/stolic/media/celica/P07-02-10_2225.jpg.html)

There may be better ways to do it, but the housing I used had the original mounting points smashed off in what I can only imagine was a rather painful collision, so my options were somewhat limited

Also, JRAD, I had the same issues with fitting the intake (ITB's in may case ) I had to use a Dremel to remove a little material around one of the manifold bolt holes to get a little clearance. something you can do in your situation or no?

[Jrad]

Jeez that pic gets around more than I do lol

Also, JRAD, I had the same issues with fitting the intake (ITB's in may case ) I had to use a Dremel to remove a little material around one of the manifold bolt holes to get a little clearance. something you can do in your situation or no?

Not sure what you mean with that? My clearance issues was to the water housing off the bolt on the carb. But sorted that by welding the water housing.

Also - a nice way of mounting it too. Mines kinda being mounted based on working out the hoses first.

Another question (instead of starting a new thread - and making the guide a little more helpful for people with this system)

I believe the OEM top water hose cannot be used - right?

36586

What is a hose/part number that can be used in place? Anyone with experience?

edit: a cut lower hose works

[Stolic]

nice fix.. I saw your issues in your other thread.. little bit more pain in the ass than with my itb mani but it looks like you got it sorted.

I dont think the stock top pipe will fit nicely, but then I never tried. my 4A (now 9A) is in my TA22 and im going steel braid.
you may have to extend the pipe a little to make it reach. Trying to remember what we did in my mates 7A AE85. think we used stock but cut it and fitted one of those alloy temp sender units for aftermarket temp gauge/fan controller, and that was enough to make it reach :S I'll throw a pic up if I can find one