Anyone have the cold idle control removal tool??

[greeneyes]

The bad warm idle on all the 4AGEs is due to the waxstat getting old and not expanding enough in the air idle control to shut the flow of air off once the motor is warmed up. You can adjust the endplate that the waxstat seals against with a cylindrical tool that has 4 or 8 2mm steel rods sticking out a couple of mm. If you screw the endplate further down it will once again seal when warm and the cold idle of 2000rpm will reduce to the 800 warm idle that it should be.

Apart from the brilliant guy on an MR2 forum who found this out, does anyone have this tool??

[greeneyes]

Well, I've just asked the local engineer to make one, so if you want to have the IAC closing off when warm, and the idle speed sitting nicely on 800rpm, you can hire it for a chunk of the $150 odd he reckons it will cost.

[smackdown.exe]

wow $150 is quite the price to pay, surely a new iscv isnt that much more??, totally just spitballing here but couldnt have drilled two drill bits into a bit of rubber or wood so the bottom of the drill bits (non pointy parts) poke out the bottom and go into the iscv and you can turn it from the top????

sure there are amillion other ideas how to make that on the cheap..

[slide86]

Surely long nose pliers would work.

Ive used them to wind in brake caliper pistons before, they would screw that in no worries.

[willa]

Or even a pair of straight nose circlip pliers?

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[slide86]

Or even a pair of straight nose circlip pliers?

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Agreed.

[greeneyes]

Yeah, I feel its pretty steep too, but he said somewhere between one hour & two, at $110/hr. I will find out tomorrow...

First up I tried straight circlip pliers, then I made a tool out of some hardwood... results are here-

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page__st__165

That's when I figured I'd have to get hardened steel pins..

[jdm86gtz]

I got one made recently, mine has 2 steel pins. The ring is quite tight and I failed to open it with a circlip pliers.
As I'm in Ireland I'm not much good to you.
Credit to the MR2 guy for this btw.

[greeneyes]

Well, it cost $100 in the end. I took the idle control unit off at the engineers and we did it there.

He made a 4 pin one, using silver steel pins. We broke one and bent the other three, which shows how tightly the disc gets frozen in there with tar etc. This was having vise-grips on the tool and a g-clamp to hold it in tight against the disc.

Now it can easily be turned by hand. I'll cut new pins and make them a tad shorter, they have hardly any distance to go into the disc.

I screwed it down about 4mm, and it shuts off now at warm engine temperatures.