4AGE 20V Blacktop - Crank bolt stuck hard

[Futo_gt86]

Car - AE71 Pano

motor / part in question - 4AGE 20V Blacktop

problem - Crank bolt stuck hard

occurs/started when (if applicable)- Timing Belt Change

personal situation (if applicable)- Wild

Doing timing belt change on 20V Blacktop motor (motor out of car)
I firstly used a tool I made to hold the crank pulley in place so I could get the bolt undone.
Used it before with no issues on multiple engines.
It bent and cracked, so I bought a proper pulley holder.
Been waiting for delivery, hanging out to get this tool and get job done.
It arrived yesterday, so had a little play around with it to familiarize myself with it.
So just now I got to use it and this happened.

37312

This Crank bolt is on with some serious force.
I think someone has used locktite and hammered the thing up with a rattle gun.
My next thought is to lock the flywheel in place with a ring gear locking tool.
My problem is, if I lock the ring gear I'm transfering all pressure on the rear of the crank.
Is there any change I can snap the crank wilst hanging of a breaker bar?
I'm serious, this bolt is farken tight. I know 4AG use a forged steel crank form factory, so this is a plus, but is it possible?

[davew7]

I have an alloy crank pulley so I have to either lock the ring gear thru the starter mount, if in the car, or the back side of the block, if on the engine stand. Never had any problems with either method. I think your best option would be to borrow or rent an impact driver. I've used a breaker bar and a extension pipe and still could not loosen the bolt. One zap with the impact gun and the bolt came right off. Dave W

[Matt]

Another way is to put a long breaker bar between the crank pulley and chassis rail and blip the starter motor but shit can go wrong if you don't do it properly and make sure you remove leads etc so the motor won't start.

[Futo_gt86]

I have an alloy crank pulley so I have to either lock the ring gear thru the starter mount, if in the car, or the back side of the block, if on the engine stand. Never had any problems with either method. I think your best option would be to borrow or rent an impact driver. I've used a breaker bar and a extension pipe and still could not loosen the bolt. One zap with the impact gun and the bolt came right off. Dave W

OK, I should be able to get access to Impact Gun.


Another way is to put a long breaker bar between the crank pulley and chassis rail and blip the starter motor but shit can go wrong if you don't do it properly and make sure you remove leads etc so the motor won't start.

Yep, I've had success with Starter Bump method before, but this time the engine is out of car..

[Matt]

Another option is lock the cams with a shifter or a large flat head in the flywheel locking it where the starter motor goes

[Hen may possibly be a nut]

I've had success with a bit of chain bolted between one of the outer holes in the flywheel and a suitable hole on the block. May be tricky to get a flywheel on there depending how it's bolted to the stand. but should be possible.

[tottacrolla]

Heat from a propane torch will help to loosen the Loctite grip.
Another way is to remove the sump and use a stout, clean block of wood between the crank and block.

[Futo_gt86]

I have an alloy crank pulley so I have to either lock the ring gear thru the starter mount, if in the car, or the back side of the block, if on the engine stand. Never had any problems with either method. I think your best option would be to borrow or rent an impact driver. I've used a breaker bar and a extension pipe and still could not loosen the bolt. One zap with the impact gun and the bolt came right off. Dave W

Borrowed $800 impact gun, did the job first go!
I got to get me one of those.

[LittleRedSpirit]

Rattle ftw. I think its safer than the starter bump method, which puts stress on extra components beyond where the problem lies. Nice work.

The little cordless rattle guns are great for general assembly too. So incredibly fast.