he also has a floor mounted pedal box which makes it easier to mount the reservior lower. It's a pain in the ass to bleed brakes when the reservior is lower than the cylinders.
i remember reading that trd n2 build that was done by some kiwi which was immaculate and im pretty sure he had all his fluids centrally where the stereo backets usually are. easy to top up and monitor. but like you said pointless of moving it, unless you cant get a drill in there
stroked 2L ca18-ae86 in the build...eta xmas 2012?
Yeah. Floor mounts make that sort of stuff easy. Ipra has a restriction on how far we can relocate pedals. Makes it kind of impossible.
Spent a little bit of time screwing the engine back together today:
Gone back to a RWD outlet system, albeit one with most of the sensor bungs replaced with other sizes. The rear and upper water outlets are still off getting bungs welded into them. Plus i got back my cam covers the other day with the -6 bungs welded into them.
Plus building the exhaust, putting the one piece rear brake line back in, and bending bundy tube for the brakes.
what's you do to clean those quads up?
Yeah, they were media blasted and painted before i bought them. Had to sand out some of the paint in the throttles though because whoever had painted them had sprayed down the throttle essentially sealing them up.
I have another set which need to be sent off for media blasting. Usually glass beads for aluminum, although walnut shell is becoming more popular these days.
Little bit of progress, apart from being crook.
Pulled apart the rear end looking for a brake line leak. Turns out that one of the lines had a pinhole leak. Found that im definitely using my rear brakes too:
Sending off the diff to get reset too, may as well while its out.
Built up all of the exhaust, but had to send it off for welding because my stupid TIG isnt holding an AC arc on stainless. Will have to experiment more later.
Mounted up the brake reservoir:
Oh and started machining out the recess for the brake caliper mounts on the lathe:
Still hoping to get a mill soon so i can finish them off. I tried using a mates mill, but its really setup for cylinder heads and blocks, so its a ton bigger than i need and the milling bit is way bigger than the biggest radius i have.
Need to install the wideband, and finish putting in the wiring for the gauges. Should be pretty much ready to put the engine back in on the weekend.
what do you have planned for running in? does TK have any suggestions?
ive only assembled a few engines, and only once with new rings... but i tried the "hard" run in and it seemed to work well.
78's
Hard run in on the dyno. 30w mineral oil to run in. Swapping to normal oil for power runs.