i have been told stock is the best though i have spoken to a bloke who does alignment setups on race cars and he said it is sorta pointless on changing the pitch of the pinion as all that you will get is vibrations from miss alignment
Hey guys,
For all those out there with adjustable/modified 4-link setups,
-What works best for you i.e. which arms shorter/longer
-How MUCH shorter/longer did you find best??
I'm looking at getting a spare set of arms to cut and shut, and just looking for some first hand info!
Edit: obviously they will be getting a new set of superpro bushes through them aswel.
Discuss![]()
i have been told stock is the best though i have spoken to a bloke who does alignment setups on race cars and he said it is sorta pointless on changing the pitch of the pinion as all that you will get is vibrations from miss alignment
the dyno pull to 300rwkw
BT20v is making 300rwkw like i said i would without nitrous so now its time for some spray and see if she will run a 10s or less
maybe when he did a cut and shut on his vs and didnt use a ruler.
measure each one individually.
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i've dicked about a bit with rosejointed adjustable, wound too far for slip (nose down) you'll get bad vibrations
i've set up my current bus noseing up slightly and it's heaps grippier, can stick with higher powered cars while driftng a bit better, well i think so anyway, could be wrong
NEAR MISS
Really? damn. The sole reason I'm getting adjustable arms is to point the nose DOWN more.
Not for grip/squat/wheelbase/whatever, but purely to try and keep the nose from hitting the underbody so much!
I would of thought it would make less vibrations, as i will be returning the angle closer to neutral? because when you slam a car, the nose goes up?
Or have i got it all balls-ed up![]()
then why buy adjustables?
its a trial and error thing, and its determined by alot of different things than just the pinion angle
the squat/anti squat thing is a personal preference, weather you like it grippy not or as grippy. and things that influece these things are
-spring rate
-damper rate
-centre of gravity
-tyres
-tyre pressures
-angle of arms (this is where traction brackets come in)
-length of arms (this is where boxed in equal length arms come in)
and this is only in a straight line.
who knows how it works in corners.
you are just gonna have to experiment i think, there are a few "rules of thumb" (in reference to which way the pinion should be facing) i dont know them, but ive read them before.
i say just wind the pinion one way, and see what happends. and hopefully just make it so it doesnt hit anything as well!!
i always thought it was a good idea to put as little strain on the uni joints as possible, just makes sense to not have them flexing around because of your weird pinion angle, but who knows what effects that has on geometry etc.
In faith there is enough light for those who want to believe and enough shadows to blind those who don't.
- Blaise Pascal
nah blair you can nose it down a fair bit before it starts vibrating, but yeh dave has it take into account the stress you'll be placing on your uni joints by smashing it forward. i am only saying wha i found, there are so many other variables to it all like dave outlined, but when i experimented that was what i found.
nose down equals more 'watah tah tah tah'
nose up equals 'wataaaaaaaaaaaaah'
NEAR MISS
Ok coolio.
Will report back in here after a couple of experiments/dori sessions
Keen to hear the results as ive got bushed adj upper arms in the wagon, havent messed witrh them yet just left tham at stock length. Might try pointing the nose down for more grip.
RT142 Estate.
AJPS.
i thought nose down was more slip???
NEAR MISS