4-link lengths/setups

[keiichi]

unequal length rose links make alot of noise n stuff because they bind i.e. push and pull on your seems when the diff yaws during cornering.

[Dylan]

Ah understood, so equal length is the go then

[assassin10000]

Equal length is nice, but a good trade-off if you don't have time/skills/money to do equal length is to use heim/rose joints on one side and a bushing on the other. Like the old battleversion and Cusco Jr link, 4-link replacement arms. Having the bushing on one side (urethane/stiffer than stock) and solid joint on the other allows for a very stable/predictable movement without the problems of binding, vibration, and noise you normally see with both sides being solid on an unequal length setup. The vibration and noise will still be present even with equal length if it's present in the rear diff (ie wont change), it will just have less chance of binding.

I've had solid/solid and solid/bushing setup on my car back to back trying things out and there is a definite difference between how the rear end articulates between the two. If running stock/unequal length I'll probably NEVER go back to solid/solid.


Pinion angle on our cars does NOT gain any traction on our cars, or at least the gains will be so minimal we shouldn't be able to tell (afaik). With a 4-link (or link style susp) the forces on the arms stay pretty much the same and transfer directly to the chassis. That's only something you worry about with leaf springs, slicks and drag racing. If you want more traction run traction brackets.

Andrew

[blair]

I have Urethane bushings already man

And i dont want the adjustability to gain/reduce traction, I want it to try stop the diff nose slapping the underbody so i can go lowerrrr!

but, if the whiteline ones arent urethane (they look fairly rubber-ish and cheaaap) then i dont wan't to backstep!

[slydar]

theyre definately poly bushed.

[keiichi]

ah yep, but i think if you go lower the diff nose points down no? either way, you are right to change it, i didnt think of that. you should go equal length setup with rose joints. thats what im going to do eventually, i want to go lower but im starting to get a huge reduction in anti-squat already - though its already low enough, scrapes rails
however, adjustable polybushed links coupled with some traction brackets should do the trick eh without the binding and noise you get from rose.
you could also get traction brackets with the hole drilled directly below the original so when its remounted it pulls the bottom forward and then remount the upper link further up the rail pushing the top back - centering the diff, increasing anti-squat even more, without pulling the whole diff forward and having to get adjustable polybushed arms.