High revving BT 20v???

[slideways]

The objective is to build a BT 20v that can rev to around 9000/9500 Rpm.

Bottom end will be standard crank with the usual strengthening and balancing treatment, good bearings, forged and balanced rod/piston combo.

What C/R is good for this

What cams would I be looking at to make power with these revs,

What valve train mods should be looked at with said cams?

Are there any uprated oil pumps available of the shelf?

Do you retain the vvti?

Do the T3 velocity stack hit the brake booster in an AE86?

Best Ecu option for a 20v?

Also has anyone got any build info on Sexy16's 10,000 rpm coupe?

And yes have searched a shirt load, and their is no definitive information.

[Sam-Q]

you can forget the standard rods no matter what you do to them. Get spool or something

The 20V is a simple engine most ecu's will be fine, Wolf usually has issues though.

You can shim the stock oil pump for more pressure.

Stock pistons are fine.

Cams around the 300 degree duration as a very rough guess? with adjustable cam gears and no VVT anymore.

[lo_rolla]

Shouldn't you decide what power you want and go from there?

[Sam-Q]

forgot to mention trd valve springs and upgraded retainers would be the go also.

[lo_rolla]

TODA Inner Shim Kit - Springs, seats, collets, retainers, buckets and shims isn't toooooo expensive. I'd imagine cheaper then TRD bits, at any rate.
Well, for 16V at any rate.

[Sam-Q]

20v has "inner shims" stock though?

[corknose]

i know wideslider (ben) has a standard bt20v and he revs it to 9000rpm with a haltec computer.

[lo_rolla]

Well, don't I look stupid. And besides the fact I was talking about 16V, so I didn't factor in the price of 4 extra buckets!
I don't know what they do with 20V, I've only ever researched for 16V.

[slideways]

Sorry sam I meant crank not rod. I know the bt rods are piss weak.
Also is the weight of stock vs forged pistons of any concern?
Is there a difference between the 16 v and 20 v 7 rib blocks?

[Sam-Q]

lo_rolla: I thought you where just giving an example not saying to directly get the 16V kit so it didnt seem stupid to me.

slideways: the stock crank should be fine with 9000RPM, but some race prep would be good. Just to be safe don't get an aluminium crank puley. I know there's lots of debate over if your hurts your crank long term or not but I say it's not worth the risk for trivial if gain from having one. I would of thought in the past that piston makers would go out of their way to make something light, but from what I have seen this isn't the case. Also I don't agree with the high dome shapes on them which I think compromises the combustion chamber shape further. I like the idea of running a thinner gasket and shaving the head, old fashioned yes but I think it's superior in my crazy unexperienced theories

Blocks are the same