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Thread: Do You Have an FT86? Because I do.

  1. #101
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    why do you want to run triangulated 4 lInk?

    you probably already know but stanza's run a triangulated 4 link std. might even jus tbe triangulated uppers
    T18 in the build

  2. #102
    Gunner
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    only the uppers are in that configuration on all the triangulated set ups I have seen.

    From what I have read, a triangulated 4 link, or tri-link, should negate the need for a watts link or panhard rod. Not sure on how correct that is, but I need look into it further. As I said my real concern about such a set up is whther it could handle the forces that the diff will cop. That said, I have not seen many of these set ups on circuit cars, so there must be a reason for it, but I need to fabricate diff mounts anyway, so if this a sound idea, and if it means no watts link or panhard, that means, less fabrication, less metal, less weight, and more room for my fuel and cooling system.

  3. #103
    Gunner
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    Nearly there.
    Last edited by Gunner; 5th September 2013 at 07:41 PM.

  4. #104
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    Even with a triangulated 4-link I would still run a watts link or panhard rod.

    The top triangulation will get rid of most of the side to side movement, Im assuming youll be using rose joints?

    The main advantage of a 5th link (watts, panhard rod) is to set the rear roll centre. That is for circuit type racing though, which im sure your setting up for?

  5. #105
    Veteran ae8zn6's Avatar
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    Gotta admire the commitment Gunner! Hope it all works out as youve planned!

    Former Cars: 1992 300zxTT *SOLD* ---1984 Daily 20v AE86 *PARTED OUT* =(
    1983 Daily GZE86 *No Longer*--- 1984 JDM Daily *SOLD*
    2001 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution 7 GSR--- 'Sonic' 2012 Blue Toyota 86 GTS *SOLD*
    Daily JDM Trueno GT-APEX hatch *SOLD*

    Current Cars: Project Ugly Duckling - 1984 AE86 SR drift car --- 2015 Model S P90D daily

  6. #106
    Gunner
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    I found that out the other day meadan, if it isn't to much hassle I'll give it a go, but it's not likely.

    A bit more welding and grinding, and then this side is done. all in good time.

  7. #107
    Veteran drift kid's Avatar
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    man, thats really turning out nicely what experience do you have in welding/fabricating, like have you been formerly trained or are you self taught? keep up the great progress

  8. #108
    Moderator Sam-Q's Avatar
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    this is going to be very interesting. Now this is probably the only time you will ever hear me say this but you should use a S13 crossmember, lower control arms and struts. I would push the track right out where you want it. Either that or get ma61 struts and some long lower control arms
    My website: SQ Engineering - 4AGE and 3SGE upgrade/replacement parts

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  9. #109
    Veteran Vance's Avatar
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    looking good rhys. cant wait to see more progress.

    im picturing you test-driving this thing with unpainted bare metal, no windows, no interior, a wooden stool as your seat, and an engine with no-tune boosting off its guts. oh how glorious

  10. #110
    Gunner
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    haha rio, you know me too well.

    Drift kid, I have no training in fabrication, and have never done any fabrication apart from a couple manifolds, cooler kits, and engine mounts.

    Thanks for the comments sam, I am really unsure on how to do the front suspension, I am not changing the crossmember though, the engine works really well with the 86 cross member, the rack is in a perfect spot, and the sump will require minimal modification. I have been eyeing off the cressy front end, which I am fairly sure, is similar or the same as 61 gear, but I don't think I could bring myself to doing it to cressy.

    I'll get some more pics up later, radiator is sorta kinda mounted, need to see what I am to do with a fuel tank before its finalised, pretty cool though, vents out of the number plate spot. One more piece of steel to go it on the drivers side (just a small piece), then on to the passenger side, which is slightly different in design, due to the offset heads.

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