Reply With Quoteautosol!
My tip for polishing is, if doing it by hand, or final polish by hand is to do it in forwards/backwards movement, not in a circular pattern, the forward/backwards reflects light differently to a swirl method of doing it, with dark colours under fluro lights, it's a noticeable difference.
Hachiroku since 1994
Originally Posted by LittleRedSpirit
autosol!
how do i know if i need a full cut and polish or just a polish
water doesnt bead on my car anymore and dirt sticks to it like crazyupsetting times
haha. i use meguires tech wax paste for the wax and auto gym for the polish. but i orbital buff the bonnet and roof. otherwise the auto gym comes up really well and if you want beady water, definately reccoment the meguires tech wax. then again, these arent cheap products but they do last a while
if you wanna be anal, you can get a paint measuring something or other to check your thickness cos you dont want to cut and realise you hardly have any paint to cut into...
I have used Auto Glym and it is great!
Bought 1 litre of the Car Polish.
Give at least 2 to 3 layers of polish and was super shinny and slippery smooth when you run your finger across the panels.
If you want a super smooth finish, use a clay bar after washing and before polishing, then polish then wax and the resulting finsih is super smooth, I clay bar my car often and it's amazing the contaminants on the surface.
Hachiroku since 1994
Ive never got my head around this polish and waxing stuff. Do I polish then wax? or wax then polish?
Kitten cut and wax number 2 is the biggest bag of shit waxamon ive ever bought. I rather like repo cut and polish myself but cant find it anymore.
85' JDM TA63 GTTR sedan - Godlike
89' JDM GZ20 Soarer - 1jz + R154 bus
Waxing is the finishing step.
So wash, claybar, polish, then wax
I see, Ill wait a few weeks then redo the whole lot.
Anyone got any products for buffing freshly rubbed acrylic?
85' JDM TA63 GTTR sedan - Godlike
89' JDM GZ20 Soarer - 1jz + R154 bus
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