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Thread: Fender braces- Ultra-racing & Jasma. any good?

  1. #21
    Moderator Sam-Q's Avatar
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    no way, don't go to such trouble, thanks anyway. Mounting off inside the wheel-well at the front is unusual but you grasped the concept of using straight bars in line with the directions of stress, unlike something else... I at first scratched my head at fender braces but too many people have claimed a big difference in how their car drives. So when I get time I will make my own much like yours above however I will use 32mm 4130 pipe that are a bolt on but on the front end I will weld a solid point in for me to bolt to.
    Last edited by Sam-Q; 1st January 2011 at 11:03 PM.
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  2. #22
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    Mine are 1.25" x .5" rectangular tube, that's why they look heavy. In reality they're fairly light but still way strong. Yours are definately better than the UR, despite the single mounting point in a somewhat 'odd' position compared to the others out there. The only point I don't like is the bottom arm not reaching closer to the pivot point, as the material you used seems quite a bit weaker than what I did.



    The UR is just poor design all around IMO.

    Poor bracketry, where it bolts at the 'front' appears to be just a short piece of angle with no reinforcement.
    The upper door mount having to unbolt the door completely which leads to realigning the door after install (a PITA for many people who aren't good at it)
    The bend in the lower bar/arm which IS the most important 'arm' of the brace. All the forces a fender brace should counter act are in the up/down axis of impact/loading on the chassis/strut tower.
    The forward mount being pushed so far to the front of the strut mount unnecessarily, a much weaker placement (think of how a pry/breaker bar works, refer to the ^ sentence above).
    And the extra weight/uselessness of the bar between the upper & lower hinge mounts.


    The lower arm on my design was pushed as far forward to the strut mounting point as I could get it and have it clear the pinch weld with no issues AND not actually interfere with tire/fenderwell clearance as well. Almost all the load/work is done through the lower bar of the brace, the upper just triangulates and stiffens it even more.

    The braces I've been running are also probably why I haven't seen any 'cracking' of the seam sealer on my car despite having spring rates above 6/4.5k F/R, which is commonly seen on unreinforced cars driven on the street (as well as the track).

    Andrew
    Last edited by assassin10000; 1st January 2011 at 11:20 PM.

  3. #23
    Glenn ke_70's Avatar
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    ha i thought they were solid!! lol

  4. #24
    Senior Member 86coupe's Avatar
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    I installed the UR ones to take some of the load off my chassis rails which were starting to crack. The design is puzzling and they needed some adjustment to make them fit. Also had to cut off the bottom half of the antenna holder as it was in the way. I did think the steering felt a little sharper afterward, but my car had been off the road for months, so I had no immediate comparison.

    I like how they bolt on in line with the strut tower brace, but this may be more to do with aesthetics than physics. I'm running track suspension on rough country roads, so I reckon any bracing that helps stop the front end tearing off is beneficial. May go with something custom made next time.

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