Mine are 1.25" x .5" rectangular tube, that's why they look heavy. In reality they're fairly light but still way strong. Yours are definately better than the UR, despite the single mounting point in a somewhat 'odd' position compared to the others out there. The only point I don't like is the bottom arm not reaching closer to the pivot point, as the material you used seems quite a bit weaker than what I did.
The UR is just poor design all around IMO.
Poor bracketry, where it bolts at the 'front' appears to be just a short piece of angle with no reinforcement.
The upper door mount having to unbolt the door completely which leads to realigning the door after install (a PITA for many people who aren't good at it)
The bend in the lower bar/arm which IS the most important 'arm' of the brace. All the forces a fender brace should counter act are in the up/down axis of impact/loading on the chassis/strut tower.
The forward mount being pushed so far to the front of the strut mount unnecessarily, a much weaker placement (think of how a pry/breaker bar works, refer to the ^ sentence above).
And the extra weight/uselessness of the bar between the upper & lower hinge mounts.
The lower arm on my design was pushed as far forward to the strut mounting point as I could get it and have it clear the pinch weld with no issues AND not actually interfere with tire/fenderwell clearance as well. Almost all the load/work is done through the lower bar of the brace, the upper just triangulates and stiffens it even more.
The braces I've been running are also probably why I haven't seen any 'cracking' of the seam sealer on my car despite having spring rates above 6/4.5k F/R, which is commonly seen on unreinforced cars driven on the street (as well as the track).
Andrew