Randomskate's AE86 Project Rust Destroyer

[randomskate]

Thank you very much Nikkojoe, that is some real valuable input.

Parts Needed:


Total estimated in Parts: $1400
Not including engine: $600

Tools Needed:


Total estimated in tools: $400
Estimated Grand Total: $1800.00
Estimated Grand Total Without engine: $1000.00

Add $120 to get intake manifold modified professionally.

At this stage should be safe to say it will cost 2 grand at the VERY LEAST to perform the conversion.


To do:

Estimated Labour: 10-30 hours

Estimated Minimum Cost: $2000

other links
http://www.##################/forums/showthread.php?7369-I-m-a-noob-trying-a-4age-into-AE86-conversion.-Advice-please...

[dtour]

dude keep the oil cooler stuff on the motor i am pretty sure buffalo road wreckers have some Toyota corolla oil coolers hanging near the counter

[randomskate]

I was bored so I made a video.



use bog in moderation and with a spatula or you will be forever sanding, some of the rust was ground out again after realising it was there even after bog was put on so make sure if your doing this that u get all the rust out. I hope i did.

I have extended the loom by 80cm, soldered and shrinkwrapped it from the ecu side, just need to solder it onto the engine side now..

[randomskate]

I think i went overkill with the wire thickness... hope it all fits through the firewall hole... are all these wires really necessary?

[AIROCOBRA]

Hi Nathan , Just stumbled across your build ---- loved the video --- but it alarmed me a bit with regard to your rust repairs . First up I am not a panel beater , mechanic etc etc . But I have fixed a few cars I have pranged in motor sport or rebuilt to there former glory. It would appear from the video that you have ground away most of the rust , treated what was left and then sealed it . So far so good , but then you have just bogged the gaps and not welded in metal or supported the gaps in any way ( ie fibre glass ). I throw this question open to any one who is an expert or professional in this area that the bog will crack in time and eventually fall out ??????
I make these comments not to put a dampener on the project , but to help in case I am right. If the bog is supported disregard my comments , if not I would pose the question on the forum , there are people that can help.
My alarm is caused by the fact that I am restoring a Sprinter for my son that had no rust ( according the previous owner ????? ) they nearly all do have rust. Any how I found a few suspicious bubbles and a few cracks in the paint . I decided since I was going to respray the car I would fire up the angle grinder . The pictures will tell the rest of the story.

The day we bought it ----- then the day after the angle grinder , there was more but I think you get the picture.
This car had been re sprayed a few year before !!!!!

[randomskate]

Hi Bob. thanks, I am no expert at this at all i'm just learning as i go along... for the 'major' rust holes i built it up with this stuff called 'fibrefill 2k' i think its fibre glass based resin stuff that sort of works like bog but its a lot messier but it should be a lot stronger.. I will see how it goes i suppose... heres a pic of one part i did:



after that, sand it down and finish with bog or spray putty and sand again as it leaves a bit of a rough surface. again i'm no expert and i'm not 100% sure how good this will work but i dont think it will crumble away like you said. lets both just hope the best for our sprinters! I'll be keeping mine garaged at all times so that would slow down the rust coming back sooner

[haveaparty]

the best way to repair rust is to weld in new plates, but it requires a certain level of skill to do this. the way randomskate has repaired his isnt the most ideal way of doing it and the bog will over time crack and fall out. but for a first time effort and for someone that has never done this sort of work before he has done an extremely good job with the tools and experiance he has.

if u hav access to a welder then ur better off welding in new plates. for the smaller less remote rust holes (pinhole spots) just weld the hole up with out making a plate as that will be fine, or if u hav access to an oxy acetylene setup just heat the spot up slightly, heat up some steel wire and dab it on the pinhole and spread the wire around. also u could just put a small filum of bog over it as its such a small area.

for larger areas, if u hav the skill level to panel beat a new panel out of flat steel into the shape u need, this is good but time consuming, ur best bet is to find a wrecked shell that hasnt got rust in the areas that urs does and cut the panel off that shell, that way u know it will be exaclty the same shape as ur rust areas, then its just a matter of fittin the rust free section of panel u hav over the rusted one on ur car, mark around it and cut the marked area out. clean the paint off back to bare metal and weld the rust free seaction of panel in. grind the welds and bog to get smooth finish.

always put rust converter on and once the panel is done and after u paint the car, spray rust proofing/fish oil into all the inner panels of the car (inside of the outter panel), in the hatch, rear quater panels adn wheel arches, doors, sill panels, inner gutters of the roof. anywhere and everywhere u can


hope this helps, and yes i am a panel beater for the record

[randomskate]

such good advice, you really make me want to start from scratch again unfortunately i do not have a welder but I will eventually have one as my tool set increases and this will probably be redone either this car or another fresh 86 shell in years to come, for now I want to concentrate on getting it roadworthy cause there is no way that this would of passed rego with that amount of rust the way it was. and i gotta try and do it on a budget whilst still having a car to drive around, i need to sell my current daily to pay for this stuff... but yeah i have learned an enourmous amount of skills (i basically had none to start with) and I will do a better job next time when i have a welder, better tools, spray guns, more money and hopefully at least a double garage instead of a single. I thought the killrust etch primer was a type of rust convertor (maybe it is, i dunno) but now i am more aware on the massive range of products and all these differernt things, i'll use 2 pack paint next time too, shows how much of a noob i was

[AIROCOBRA]

That's great Nathan , I didn't see any of that in your BIO. I think that will work OK , welding in steel plates is the best way but if you don't have the tools , skills or money to have it done then some times you have to compromise. I was worried that you had just slapped bog in those large gaps .
I have used a similar fibrous products many times with lasting success. A lot of repairs say that the only way is cut out the rust and weld new section in. If it is structural you have no choice , but non structural I have always used a 2 pak bonding fibre material and have never had a problem. So long as you treat and seal the rust areas thoroughly ( both sides ) before painting ( personal opinion ) I think all will be good . Here are couple of photos of my progress . I must do a build thread on mine.
Keep up the good work , I will follow your build with interest , we all will learn and get motivated from your efforts.





Regards Bob

[schmykel]

props for giving every aspect of the build a go! well done mate.