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Thread: where's a good place to buy paint? preferably inner west/north side.

  1. #11
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    That is actually pretty good advice in a way...

    But I really don't think that a lot of guys are going to be using Herberts Croda / Standox 2K paint like some paintshops do. And that shit is not cheap. Not to mention your amateur outfit probably doesn't have a 25+ CFM compressor, HVLP gun or the knowledge of how to mix thinners / clearcoats etc.

    Most of your amateur painters here are going to be looking for an IsoCyanate Free (ISO Free) Acrylic paints.

    And if you're (backyard) spraying a 2K paint with IsoCyanate in it, I hope that i'm not your neighbour's family... Cause spraying that shit around unsuspecting people is not a great thing. The guys who spray that stuff professionally work in a booth with filters, FULL BODY SUIT AND RESPIRATOR and are advised to drink lots of water. Cyanide poisoning would be a bad way to go From my memory most red paints and clear 2K paints have loads of IsoCyanate goodies in them.

    Before you say "she'll be right" < Read

    As an alternative to splashing out for expensive 2K paint, there is now a 2K hardener on the market that you can put into Acrylic (read:cheaper) paints that makes it finish off the gun just like it is 2K (glossy, already polished). My old man has done a boat and a few cars with it, and it really is awesome to see the finished result!

  2. #12
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    if its the price ur worried about and dont wanna spend to much, most smash repairs hav 2 paint systems, the really good system that they paint the 'prestege' cars with. and also a cheaper system that everything else gets painted with. the cheaper system is still very good paint otherwise knowone would use it. and an untrained eye cant tell the difference with the two. me and my spraypainter mate who i used to work with (im a panel beater) resprayed our mates r33 skyline, inside and out, and paint only cost him i tad over $400. that includes primer, thinners for the primer, paint and thinners for the paint. gun wash thinners, filters, sandpapers, everything we needed to do the job. of course we got it all for cost price but a smash repairs isnt goin to put that big of a mark up on the items u buy. we painted it in a massive shed and only got 2 bits of shit in the paint and 1 bug so u dont always need a booth, however its not recommended.

  3. #13
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    Most of a "respray" cost is in the prep work / labour thats why people go "backyard" to do this stuff. So respraying a car for $400 (6 litres of paint + thinners / filters) is easily do-able...

  4. #14
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    yeah that is correct, i think that wat some people dont understand when it comes to respraying an entires vehicle, first u hav to pull to whole thing apart, bumpers off, lights, door handles, interior, door moulds etc. then theres rubbing the old paint back and getting it to a finish surface ready for primer where there is no scratches, prime it. then rubbing the primer which includes dry blocking and 400 and 800 grid wet sanding which sucks the full dick, not the best job in the world, then cleaning the sludge from the wet rub out of every nook a cranny in the entire vehicle. and theres still more. so payin 3 to 4 grand for a respray at a smash repairs is not that expensive at all.

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    Maybe someone should write a good detailed guide for AE86DC in the tech section about how to do a Respray

  6. #16
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    lol, theres already one in there that someone posted up but ive always wanted to do another one. just gotta wait till i spray another car. to see some cars ive done click on my sig

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    thanks for the replies. this isnt my first go at it. TBH i was most planning on doing it in 2k, in an enclosed shed, but im interesed in maybe looking into other systems..

    nick what do you suggest? like what should i ask for? and can anyone tell me what these new IsoCyanate Free paints come up like?

    it is just going to be a flat colour with no clear. probably a dark brown. i really only need 2L. in my experience thats enough to do jams and engine bay.

    ive been quoted $235 all up for 2L of colour with 4L of thinner and hardener which im happy with but if another safer system is similar price and similarly easyish to get a decent job ill definately look into it.
    78's

  8. #18
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    You can get Iso Free 2K paint - just ask at the paintshop and they will be able to steer you in the right direction.

    Iso free comes up just like any other 2K paint, it just doesn't have (as much) IsoCyanate

    As I said, Clears and Reds 9and some hardeners) have the most IsoCyanate in them normally so if you're not using these colours you should be OK.

    I would still be using overalls and a decent chemical type respirator anyway. Spend money on a good gun for the colour work and keep it clean clean clean, clean it every time you use it and let it always soak with a little bit of thinners in it. Use your crappier gun for all your primer work, and if you can avoid it, don't put primer in your good gun. make sure you use the right primer before painting and invest in a few tack rags (i've also seen a few painters use paint filters when filling the paintgun - thats completely up to you)

    Some people like the gravity fed guns, they have a few less issues than the old "pot underneath" jobbies. From everyone i've ever heard doing 2Pak paint the HVLP guns are the bomb diggity.

    Pricing is pretty decent

  9. #19
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    yeah i always cover up and use a decent mask. im aware that still doesnt fully protect me but with the frequency that i paint with im ok with that. the respirator i had they have discontined the filters for, so ill be grabbing a new one before i do the colour.

    ive already started priming. its a 2k high build primer i had left over. i bought 4L a long time ago.. it has settled/dried up a bit but it seems ok. i did the roof the other day so well see how it comes up after i block it back.

    im also kinda interested in that stuff they paint trucks with? but ive heard there isnt a really huge range of colours.
    78's

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