ECU Trigger on a 5K

[Skylar]

I skipped everything in this thread.



Or, hella-dodge-will-still-work way of locking off any advance in the distributor and running batched with distributor as shown in megamanual.

GO!

[Twinky]

During my search for an optical trigger I decided to get some other trigger devices. Hyundai have 3 wire Hall effect sensors
in most of thier cars so it wasn't difficult to find them and they were pretty cheap, about $10 from memory. Got back home
and wired it up, BINGO!!!! Full square wave signal!! Very stable and responsive. For anyone that is trying to do the same thing
here is a wiring diagram to get the signal out.



So that is the wiring diagram if you were to do a benchtop test to make sure that the sensor is functioning.
The ECU should have internal circuitry to reflect the voltage divider. The haltech manual just shows the sensor directly plugging into
the ECU so I would assume that it does not need to have the divider put in place. The sensor works by having a voltage reference from the input voltage
and when a ferrous material enters the field it develops a voltage at a 90 degree phase difference and an internal switch turns it off.
So basically the unit runs at a constant voltage (Ref Voltage) and then goes low when a tooth passes. Although using something like a piece of
ferrous metal will trigger the device it requires a very tiny air gap, almost 1mm. So by placing a magnet on the metal you can increase the gap to 5mm
and still have a very reliable, strong signal. For the best results just use a magnet as a tooth and you can get a distance of around 1.5cm, I was using
a hard drive magnet in that test so depending on magnet strength is how big the air gap has to be. To be safe an air gap of 5mm would be ideal.

Now I can start to make the trigger wheel!

[Nicko]

Nice work!

This should be handy for many others to refer to in the future...

[Twinky]

Oh I forgot to mention I got the sensors from the wreckers, which is why they were so cheap. New they would cost around the $60 mark.

[Twinky]

Well the sensor works just fine for the Haltech. I made a "dummy motor" by placing some magnets on a disc at 180 degreees apart.
Then using a drill I make it spin and emulate the crank turning over, I just have to verify the atual rpm.
Picks up the rpm signal and then turns on the fuel pump, I am also happy about every other sensor working ie air temp, coolant, throttle and map sensor.
Now onto my new discovery about the Haltech, it does not do sequential nor does it do batch fired. It friggen multipoint..... Well it's not so bad.
It fires every revolution of the crank so all I have to do is halve the injector pulse and it should work a treat. At high rpm it really doesn't make that mutch of a difference
except for fuel consumption, which would be better than the stock carby anyway.

[Twinky]

After much stuffing about, it's finally finished! Long story short = Ignition output is dead on the ECU side, used mechanical ignition.
In turn that meant I wasn't putting the supercharger on. Finished wiring her up.



Set up the fuel system.


Noise! Turn dem subdoofers up!
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E-bOctd3WB4[/media]

43rwkw of fury!


Yes it does skids, no I will not show you.
Scares small children and that granny up the road.

I can put up more info if anyone is interested.