A GUIDE, for all your conversion needs

[Sprinterboy]

OK, I've cut and pasted this from the WEBsite ideas section as hardly anybody looks. please do so in the other thread.


WE need a sticky!


Giving the average price of 16v big ports 16v small ports, GZE and 20v

Parts needed for the conversions and so on, Coz no matter how many times we say look hear, go to this link, we will always have somebody asking for a price on a motor, eg, how much should i pay for a 4AGE. (below as example)



SO i think i woulb be a really good idea to put in a few sticky threads

One for the 16v Conversion and benifits of big port small port etc etc
One for the GZE conversion and etc etc
One for the 20v conversion u get the idea.....

And a price guide one, with all the recomended prices for all the different motors.

This would then remove the.... I found a running in car, black top20v for $500 is this a good buy?......... crap


Seeing I have next to no idea on the conversion complications with the 20v and the 16v's but i know most of them with the GZE I would be more than happy to find all the info and post up links and even write up a small walk through.

As DRiiFT_King was saying in on of the other posts we need to clean up and stop some of the same question different wording stuff, hell, we could make a whole new section on HOW TO MOD YOUR SPRINTER, From Radiator to diff!

Can a MODERATOR how can help me with this please e-mail or PM soon, Thanks, Justin

[crazy86]

First step is to sti down and actually write a thread, let a few people reply etc to make sure its all in there and its all correct, then the mods can edit out the extra posts and make it a sticky. No point making a sticky thread if its going to be filled with rumor and garage tales.

[mattysshop]

well i have a GZE conversion guide..my guide fills in the blanks that the ones already in existance leave out or don't mention anything about it..here is is..cut and paste if for a RWD GZE stickey if you want it is written by me so don't worry about copyright etc..


AE92 4AGZE Transplant into JDM AE86 Coupe


Parts Required:
If your sprinter had a 4AGE in it already factory or transplant half the stuff is there I will put an * next to the stuff that you would already have in your car, and you must re-use.
- 4AGZE front cut (mine was AE92 map version 165hp)
- * 8 bolt flywheel off 100kw/small port 4AGE and at the very least a heavy duty clutch, the ze produces nearly 40% more torque than the GE and carries it from idel to about 5000, then you get the 170 odd hp!
- * RWD 4AGE bell housing (as the starter and the slave cylinder are on opposing sides
- possibly need to change you clutch master cylinder, my old one shit itself with the new clutch
- * EFI fuel pump (most common bosch VL turbo pump) with fittings and hose
- * exhaust manifold from RWD 4AGE or extractors
- a wiring guy (I didn't attempt to connect the 10 kgs!! Of wire I pulled out of the front cut)
- piping for your front mount (do not put the stock one under the bonnet just as much stuffing around as a front mount, and half as effective)
- alternator bracket off a 4A-FE as the alternator needs to be in the same place as on the 4AFE
- some 2" radiator hose, heater hose, and hose clamps , I got away with using most of my old stuff.

There are more parts, but you'll get the idea in this guide.

Ok, now, there are many guides on the net about pulling your old 4A-C out and putting a GE or ZE in. and that is like any other engine, undo some bolts rip it out.
Now put your old engine mounts (providing they are good) put them on the ZE in the same place, the exhaust side will go straight on, BUT the intake side is a little tricky. This is nowhere on the net and I had to find out the hard way! The black bracket that connects the sc to the block, remove it, it about 7 inches long, then you will notice when you go to put the engine mount on, the corner of the SC bracket (big cast bracket) needs to be ground off to put the engine mount on, and a little dowl of stainless steel. Then bolt the mount on (sounds dodgy, but it's the only way!).

Then i took all the engine harness out, I had to do this with both cars, and gave it to my wiring guy, he cut and soldered for a couple of days, and I had my loom to plug it in and start it up!

You will notice that the intake just near the throttle body (90 deg bend) needs to be reversed, but it fouls on the body itself, so you need to make a 10mm spacer plate, same holes, and use longer bolts. The throttle cable is up to you how you set it up, I used my existing cable, and turned the link around 180 deg, made a bracket, and I was set!

Another thing to watch out for, there are 2 cooling pipes that stick out the back of the engine one large one, and a small one, and these stick out the back of the engine too far, so I simply cut them a couple of inches short, and get some radiator hose with a 120 deg (not perfect) bend in it for both of them, and ran them under the supercharger to the remote thermostat housing, and connected up the heater etc. I did not connect the cold start choke thing (the 2 little 6mm hose that run from the bottom of the throttle body) as I am in brizvagas, I didn't really have to, it doesn't get cold enough. Also after a while they tend to not work properly and remain shut all the time, (and it will run rich on idle even when the engine is warm) I have absolutely no problem with starting it at 5 am in the morning when there is frost on my windows.

NOTE: all the original hoses from the front cut, and the ones in my car and some straight bits (get them off a commodre vn-vy they have really long straight bits with good bends at each end) were used to make this setup, obviously it's all been renewed, but with a bit of ingenuity you can make them all line up.

Make sure that all vacuum lines are plugged of, there are 3 main ones in particular, there are 2x 6mm (from memory) that connect to the power steering. DO NOT CONNECT THESE TOGTHER, block them off individually or it won't idle properly, and there is one other on the pipe that runs down from the throttle, to the s/c, another 6mm hose, block off aswell.

The Alternator bracket off the 4AFE bolt on the side of the block the same way as it did in the crappy corolla you stole it off from the wreckers, all you need is to cut/make/weld an adjuster/slider bracket, doesn't have to be the strongest thing in the world, it just needs to hold a fair bit of tension on the belt, I used some 3mm steel brackets welded together, they were some exhaust brackets I had lying around!!

Once I had the clutch on, the G/box went on, then I put a new timing belt on (always a good idea, although they are a free spinning engine), put my RWD 4AGE timing covers on (they don't a big hole where the engine mount for the FWD) put my polished and filled down 4AGE cam covers on. And the motor and g/box was set ready to go in.

Once you get it in, and bolted up, bolt on the exhaust and then I simply connected the radiator/heater hoses, I didn't actually mount the remote thermostat housing to anything, it just sits there with the hoses holding it in place. DO NOT USE THE CLUTCH FAN, with this water pump, it will stuff it up in a while, it's not made for it, run the thermos, OR use a RWD 4AC/4AGE water pump assembly, you won't need to worry about the remote thermo housing, and you can keep your clutch fan. I used my normal sprinter radiator, which was nearly perfect, just flushed it properly. I recommend if it doesn't look good inside, just take it to a radiator place, and get them to flow test it, you might be up for a new core if its shagged, only about $50 or so. You need to ground the thermostat to the chassis just a piece of good wire will do the trick, that triggers the thermo fans. I am only running the auxiliary a/c fan, just to keep some air moving at light and such. I ran it for about a month, with no fan connected! without any overheating problems whatsoever! Weird I know, but they don't run very hot, even with my front mount there, which would be very comfortable on a 180 or Silvia!

I was lucky also, that I didn't need to modify my fuel system, as with anyone with a 4AGE in it already. There might be a few things I haven't covered here, but it's mostly a guide to fill in the blanks the others leave out. I am very happy with consistent 13.9 ¼ mile times..

[Sprinterboy]

OK, seeing as i'm not getting much feed back and people on these boards doing the conversion I might just use some of the toymods links

[dori_86]

so dou u need all of the wiring if u are doing a 4ac to 4age swap, the motor im looking at has no wiring but is out of a jap ae86.. help? i know u talked about wiring but need a deffinate/ quick answer, as the engine is gooing cheap and fast, no gear box, no wiring just engine under 100k kms, how much should i offer?