they sound so tuff, I was thinking about this the other day. Would be interested to know.
anyone got any pics of these setups on 4AGE's? i'm making some pulleys for my motor..all billet ally stuff, yes some part of it is a bit of wank factor, and i don't really need it.. but still i might just try polyrib type..
Matty
they sound so tuff, I was thinking about this the other day. Would be interested to know.
no pics. sounds awesome though. but how do you do it? is it all custom or ?
78's
Extreme Custom Engineering.. craig has a milling machine.. fiar bit of work in it.. or i can just chuck some billit in the lathe and make some polyrib ones, then on the milling machine for the keyway etc etc..
Troy that fella i was with the other day when i dropped that engine off, has a billet crank pully 4AGE poly rib rear, and a v belt front so he could run the 4AC aircon setup.. plus it weights about 1/4 the steel one!
the crank pully im going is going to be about the same size.. but only i pully, i only have 1 external belt.. the water pump going to make a bit bigger and same with the altenator.. underdrive everything a bit.. and lighten the mass of it.. billet adjustable centers in the cam gears..
Matty
p.s. if you want any of this done see craig at extreme engineering 0412432546 , can make all this stuff no problems..
why not just buy nevo pulleys?
Oh, just read somwhere else they're no longer in business... sucks
I've been reading around and I still don't understand, what is the advantage of gilmer type pulley system?
no belt slip
could the standard pulleys be modified to have the gilmer drive adapted off something else? Like how about getting the water pump pulley and machining it down to fit on the inside of a camshaft pulley?
30kw club
my main reason is for lightening all the pullies on the front.. like instead of the solid steel crank pully that weighs about 2kg.. your replacing it with a billet alluminium one of about 400grams.. and so on and so forth.. but also to underdrive the altenator, and water pump.. making them easier for the engine to turn.. so the potential power output of the engine is increased, and load of ancillaries reduced.. plus the water pump works more effectivly if you under-drive it to a certain degree.. the gilmer drive design was just a thought.. or i might just take the easy way out and machine some billet on the lathe for some pollyrib ones..
There's some good discussion on Gilmer drive . How it works, where to get parts and how to size it all up.
Hen
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