Project 86 - Big technical worklog with 20V + brake + suspension conversion

[rthy]

<div align="CENTER">

</div>



This is my thread which has now been copied over for a third time, so if it doesnt make sense that's why.

I wanted a good all round package that has limited compramises, here's what I had in mind for it compared to standard:

- More power

- More Torque

- More braking power

- More cornering ability

- More predictable

- More reliable

- More rigid

- Enough room to still fit my bike in the back.

- Nicer suspension ride (by my personal taste)

- More comftable

- Better looking

- Nice stereo with some bass


the list goes on, basicly I wanted a daily driver that equiped well enough to go on a circuit should I choose to.

Also this has had the suspension tuned to eliminate oversteering, this is not for drifting!


Lastly I have tried to make the pictures as detailed as possible so that other people can learn from what I am doing. I am happy to help people and I don't beleive in keeping car secrets, so if you have a question about anything I am doing then ask me here.

[rthy]

Anyway heres the specs that I currently have or I am planning to have:



Engine: Toyota 4AGE 20 Valve Silver top



Clutch/flywheel: 20V flywheel and exedy 212mm clutch



Induction: Factory quad-throttle bodies, custom made inlet trumpets with a custom airbox sucking through a K&N pod filter



Gearbox: T50 with custom short shifter
Planned gearbox mods: Installation of an oversized Delrin Shift Bushing and also a change of gear knob.



Diff: T-18 with disks with 1 : 4.1 TA-22 diff gears
Planned Diff: Current T-18 with TRD 2-way LSD center. With also custom stroke limiting rods.



Radiator/fans: Hyundai Excel with modifed hyundai mounts and one of the two OEM fans, which is the former air-con condessor one.



Front shocks: ST-204 4-way externally adjustables by KYB: AGX



Rear shocks: Modified Commodor IRS 8-way externally adjustables by KYB: AGX



Front Springs: Kings 65mm I.D coilover type, 275 pounds/inch (4.9 Kg/mm) 200mm long, Linear spring



Rear Springs: Custom whiteline, approx 60mm lower than standard, approx 180 pounds/inch (3.2Kg/mm), progressive spring.



Front Brakes: MK2 Supra vented 260mm



Front Brake Pads: QFM organic sport pads



Rear Brakes: ST-141 280mm disks with AE-82 corolla calipers.



Rear Brake Pads: Ferodo extra soft - low temp.



Pan-hard Rod: Custom made adjustable




Exhaust manafold: custom made, stainless, true equal length and equal diameter extractors, 4 to 2 to 1, 50cm primaries and half length secondaries.



Exhaust: fully deburred, mandrel formed, stainless steel system which is 2 1/4 inch. Middle metal cat that leads to an angled straight through stainless muffler with a chrome tip.



Ignition: OEM 4AGE 20V ECU in conjuction with modifed loom and custom waste spark ignition.
Planned ignition (second stage): 2 x Twin channel M&W ignitor modules with individual coil packs for each cylender.
Coils type: 4AGZE



ECU: OEM 4AGE 20V ECU in conjuction with modified loom.
Planned ECU (second stage): Wolf 3d 3.1 (already have)






Stereo:



Heat-unit: Clarion MP3

Front speakers: Jaycar response 4 inch

Front Tweeters: Ex OEM

Rear speakers: Alpine 6 x 9s

Amp (sub only): Cadence

Sub-woofer: Reactor

Woofer enclousure: Custom

Other bits: Composite parcel shelf and fader control adapter to be woofer level control.

[rthy]

Heres what my car looked like when i first bought it:












Now one of the first things I did was to take the imobilisor off to put an alarm with remote start on, When I take everything apart I found 2 complete imobilisers and I was left with this nightmare half way through:



That ball of black wires to the bottom right was the main one that was in use, I took it out carefully and is now installed on my friends Sylvia. I will never do an alarm ever again!






Next up I had to do something about the height, it was beyond a joke so I lowered it, heres a before/after:



Bye bye 4 x 4, hello to it being dropped to the floor! And remember kids always use a safe and legal method to lower cars (hides angle grinder )

[rthy]

Heres some more old projects I have done:



This is where I made my own clear indicators that use 4 LEDs in the sides. I plan to make another version of these in due time that uses a segment of leds from the back. I had to modify my flasher can because it didnt sense the current.









Installation of my Engine Management System (EMS), its a Wolf 3D with a hand conroller.









My twin channel ignitor modules for the ignition on a custom made mount.

[rthy]

UPDATE: This was for when I was aiming to have a 4AGZE turbo hence the large pipe size, this is now very regretfully for sale.



Over the last few days there has been a strike with a picket line at my work which I was expected to be on, so what do I do? work on my car of course! Anyway I started by moving my original exhaust so it doesnt cross over from one side to the other and also so that it finishes before my diff. This leaves the other side completely free and allows my new exhuast to be fitted all the way to the back of the car. It starts as a 3 inch pipe and just before the diff it reduces down to 2.5 inch, all stainless, all equal length diameter bends and with no burrs or steps or intrusive welds.

It took me like 3 days of tedious work but heres what I ended up with:



thats the 3 inch flex pipe at the front which I am hoping wont melt as I am expecting for part of this exhuast to start glowing red at times.





Heres after it has reduced to 2.5 inch where it goes up and over the diff, this part alone took me so many hours. That handbrake cable will obviously need to be held well away.





Taken out of car, notice the reduction in pipe size, although it looks bad on the outside the inside is nice and smooth and ontop has been ground and sanded for even better flow. On the end of this pipe is where I plan to attach my 2.5 inch stainless magnum stainless straight through muffler. If theres wasnt a turbo at the start of this it would be unbearably loud.





A view from the inside, notice how theres a pair of grind marks on each join to match the pipes together, this is one of the reasons it took so long. As for the top while it looks like thres a step there there really isnt, its just an optical illusion.

I only tack welded it together for now, that because if I weld it fully not only will it be rough and potentially burn though it but it will also be gaurenteed to leave weld protrusions on the inside. So when I can I will be getting a friend to Tig weld everything together.

[rthy]

I have to admit with this project that many times I have to ask myself if its worth it because it causes me stress often and it can be real frustrating to find information that I need amoungst all the crap, and trust me even amoung the Trueno fanatics they still speak alot of crap sometimes about certain things.

Anyway I have had yet another few setbacks, I have just found out by an engineer that my pipe when it reduces in size should have a taper of no more that 7 degrees, so no matter how much I have ground that part of it down smooth it has to come out and have something better put in. Anyway I am not going to tollerate such a compramise when I have spent so much time doing everything as perfect as I can so I have to do what I have to do, even if it takes half a day to make that one bloody adapter. The only way I can think of making something that fits that specs is to cut up a 3 inch pipe in two and carefully shape it into a taper, a long painfull and shitty job, never mind.

The other one is that my intercooler fits nice .. but with the inlet/outlet leaning on the subframe, so theres no way I can get some good piping to it. So much to my horror I will get my angle grinder out and rip into my new shiny cooler. I will chop the original 3 inch pipes off and probably replace them with a 90 degree 2.5 inch bend on either side higher up. This isnt bugging me so bad because now that I think about it it should be better in terms of smooth airflow. Just more hastle and money as I cant weld aluminium and no-one who owes me one does either.

Lasty I should post a new pic of my car, I have a new number plate mount which holds it near the bottom drivers side of the front and I also chopped out the mounts and extra plastic where it used to go. This has done two things for me, firstly it has unblocked a large area for the airflow, secondly it makes it look heaps meaner. I will be chopping more supports out of the bumper to give a more clean look, I will have to put some mesh behind it in due time though to protect my intercooler. I have also been thinking about modifying my grill because I think it looks so damn boring and I have an idea on how to make it look mean, it will take some nerves though as they dont come cheap.

[rthy]

I know have one less problem! I managed to make a 3 to 2.5 inch reducer, it was suprisingly easy and most of the time was doing some internal die grinding to get it smooth. The difference over my previous one is dramatic, I dont know how many degrees it tapers down but its not much. took about 3 hours which for me isnt much compared to how much I was going to spend on it.



What i did is get a 3 inch pipe and mark out the sections needed to be taken out to make it taped down to 2.5 inch. I cut those sections out and then welded it, I ended up with this:





I welded the whole thing myself because I can get to the inside to grind it which I did do to grind it smooth with my die grinder.




after that I did some more cutting and shaping before welding the end fittings on, heres the result:



it doesnt get any more gentle than that!




I spent ages making the inside as smooth as possible with no steps at all, heres a pic:



it still looks a bit rough but running my finger over it its all very smooth with no protrusions





right now I have my exhaust system out of my car so when I get my muffler I will put it back in and fit this adapter, I will take a before after pic to show how dramatic the difference is.

[rthy]

heres another one of my old projects, I continued my trend of not using sprinter parts by putting in some later model Celica seats. I will need to go back there and write down which model it came from for my records. Heres a pic I took half way when I had only done the drivers:






for anyone whose interested forget it. I am an experienced car butcher and it still took me ages. I had to chop off all 4 mounts on each seat and start from scratch with my own design. The first seat took 12 hours!! and the second took 7 hours. Understandably I am not going to redo it anytime soon. Anyway the result was awesome, my passenegers dont even need to hold onto the Jesus bar anymore, and with my driving that's really something. They work so well infact that it actually feels like I am going slower. Another no so expected outcome is that its so much easier to steer around a corner, this is because I dont have to hold myself in position at the same time.

[rthy]

heres my September 18 update:

got another peice in the mail today here it is:



its a VL Turbo fuel pump which at free flow is rated at about 280Kw worth of fuel so it should supply enough for me when its under pressure. I sourced it through the forums and I will mount it under my car above the diff as soon as I can.


I made an interesting discovery today, and that is that I have room for a 2.5inch surge tank (AKA swirl pot). I didnt think initially that I had room for it so what I was going to do was to take my fuel tank out and get it proffesionaly modified to have a cup and a few baffles inside of it. This would of been a hastle and costly. But now I am going to fit a surge tank and get a second fuel pump.

[rthy]

UPDATE: Looks like its back to plan A, I dont think I will use this tank but instead get my tank modified, it amoungst other things saves me having 2 pumps.


so this is what I ended up putting in:



this is going to be my surge tank, no prizes for guessing that I used a bit of leftover stainless exhaust pipe. To the left is the pan-hard rod and its mount, and behind that is the diff. To the Right is the fuel tank and all lines coming out of it. Its a tight fit but it should be ok. The total volume I have worked out to be is 500cc, if I am not mistaken this works out to 20 seconds worth of fuel when I am using 200KW of power, so yeah I dont think I will be going around a corner longer than that. I will need to obviously fit a top and bottom cap and also buy and fit all the fittings to it.

heres where the secondary pump will most likely fit (the VL one):




I plan to have the pump mounted about there and the other pump above it. I also plan to make a full removable cradle that holds all this in place. This picture really shows how I am squeezing all my gear between my panhard rod and my fuel tank.

Also of note here is the fuel pump mount I made. I used some leftover exhaust pipe and some industrial tubing. I wanted this to insulate some of the vibrations of the fuel pump