Custom one peice mmm nice
Im with the 1 peice tailshaft = less drive tain loss, but itd probably make a harhser ride.
Slyder had some info on the difference between ke70 and ae86 OEM ones, something to do with the uni i think and NVH (or is it NHV?)
Hi guys and girls did a search and found nothing real substantial on them....
Now we all know the dilema we face with the stock 2 piece with non-replaceable uni joints.... (well not without getting them modded to accept replaceable unis). What where the buggers thinking
So with this in mind.... what are your thoughts in the 1 vs 2 piece vs OEM modded with replaceable unis and the centre bearing changed over.
Guess you could throw in the cost/bang for buck factor.
Regards,
Speedy!
Custom one peice mmm nice
Im with the 1 peice tailshaft = less drive tain loss, but itd probably make a harhser ride.
Slyder had some info on the difference between ke70 and ae86 OEM ones, something to do with the uni i think and NVH (or is it NHV?)
85' JDM TA63 GTTR sedan - Godlike
89' JDM GZ20 Soarer - 1jz + R154 bus
Originally Posted by joeschmo_57
I have tried both in my race car, when I first ran the car it had a T50 and used the stock tailshaft. It went good, but I started to get nervious about it towards the end. I then went the 3sg/supra conversion and had a one piece made, it was a disaster to start with the car was falling apart from vibrations, I then spoke to John Smith (the team toyota driver) he said back when they ran the Sprinters in Group A they had tried to go one piece and had nothing but trouble,so they went back to the 2 piece. In hearing this I went and had a 2 piece remade and had no troubles at all. My tailshaft guys (who are unreal I have to say) felt they could make me a 1 piece that would work, so I took them up on it, the next one was awsome and have had no trouble with it at all.
I know there are a few problems with the T50 slip yoke, they are limited to the small type uni joints. I am sure if you used a good company to make one they would have no troubles at all, the first one I had done, I will not name the company but it was made out of square so thats why it didnt work.
Thanks for the responses guys...
When you went to the good 1 piece that was with the 3S in there.... was the overall length shorter than what you would need with a 4AGE and T50 setup?
I obviously don't know alot about tailshafts but am trying to find out if there is also a correlation between the overall length of a 1 piece driveshaft and its .... I guess stability. My guess is the longer it is, the more potential for there to be issues.
I have a 1 piece in mine atm and i must say im over it. Yeh you do get less drive train loss but the amount of travel my gear box has because of it anoys me. You hit some slightly bumpy road and the gear stick goes off like a mechanical dildo
Interesting, When I spoke to a tailshaft guy he told me that it took more energy to turn a one piece tailshaft. In the end I got a one piece because it was simple. The guy who did it for me did a top job as I have never has a vibration problem. mind you the 8 only spins to 6500 rpm.
Sprinter Veteran
i've got a one piece
no problems at all
no gay centre bearing causing vibrations
One piece with w55 and t18, no issue what so ever. The thing you most remember is that it needs to be balanced and have enough play, forward/backwards to compensate for the diff movement.
I used to think 2 piece shaft was to reduce unsprung weight in a live axle car, whilst this may be part of the equation the main reason is NVH levels. Obviously most 86 enthusiasts are happy to make other mods that increase NVH so I guess a one piece shaft shouldnt be a problem. If you want a good starting point for a rebuildable 2 piece on grab a late commodore wagon shaft and have the ends changed. They run a proper CV centre joint and are cheap with a good excess length each end for mods.
Speedcore "When you went to the good 1 piece that was with the 3S in there.... was the overall length shorter than what you would need with a 4AGE and T50 setup?"
Yeah that is correct, I had it in with the 3sg/Supra it was a bit shorter then the T50 one would have been. I know they have a formula for tailshafts they refer to, length X diameter X RPM. I dont know the table but good tailshaft companies will know how to make it right.
My 2 piece one had a commodore centre bearing set up with a CV joint. It was pretty good I have to say, but the one peice is much better for what I do.
Mikes 86 "I have a 1 piece in mine atm and i must say im over it. Yeh you do get less drive train loss but the amount of travel my gear box has because of it anoys me. You hit some slightly bumpy road and the gear stick goes off like a mechanical dildo"
I would check the Gearbox mount if I where you! Then make sure as another guy has said here there is enough play to allow for the diff travel
Sorry i dont know how to quote in this
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