'tuned length' is a myth... doesn't make/rob you of as much as you think..
'tuned length' is a myth... doesn't make/rob you of as much as you think..
yes tuned length runners are a myth with turbo applications, however the shorter the runner the quicker it will spool up logical huh?, people also say log style manifolds are better than tubular but I dont see that possible. The best turbo manifold for response is what wolfwood has(6BOOST), it is a merge collector manifold which has been CNCed, where 4 of the runners come into a merge collector at one singular high point. It has been prooven time and time again, in most of the drag cars in the US as well as the drag cars in QLD. A few cars which run 6BOOST merge collector manifolds are the APC yellow evo 2 (robs), trent mercury motorsports s15 and the list goes on. With the style of manifold it has been dyno proven that boost does come on a fuck load more quicker than any other jap manifolds. Thus concluding the shorter longer runner debate with turbo applications, however on a NA motor I'd assume it would be considerably beneficial
best manifolds you can get from personal experience and has been proven time and time again. If you want one, expect to pay through the ass
omg i love these turbo setups when im finished i hope to have one of these setups and tripper86 dude i want that manifold anyone no a good place to get one built for resanable price and there are manifolds on ebay are they any good
well the manifolds are 850 uncoated for a 4cyl manifold. HPC coating or performance coating in black is a extra 225 and 175 for silver/stainless look. You will not find another person in australia that makes these types of manifolds and can be purchased off 6BOOST, PM me if you want contact details.
also, the manifolds off ebay. If they are any similar to the rb25/sr chinese manifolds etc, they will all end up cracking and leaking. However they do look very trick and are good for the money (300 odd dollars). What cracks on them usually are the welds as they are dyegrinded and linished to give the tidy shiney stainless look, thus reducing the strength of the manifold. Me and some mates have tried these and braced them up and some do crack but most have lasted. Some of the ebay manifolds are not even dyegrinded at the collector section and have dags, generally if its the case just give it abit of a file down and all should be ok. I know of a few brisbane performance shops(moss street shop in particular) that have run the 2jz and the rb26 chinese manifolds on a few of there 600-700hp cars and they all to be fine, so i guess it all depends really..
shit man it seemst aht the prices for his manafolds have gone up a bit, meh oh wells
the merge collector manifolds aren't that hard to make. I think they're a bit easier to make than the log style as you dont have to cut weird shapes in the sides of bends etc to get the turbo where you want it.
They cost SFA to make aswell if you know someone who can TIG weld. I finished the prototype for my brothers 1ZZFE turbo setup a few weeks ago made from laser cut steel flanges and 40Nb steam pipe. We paid full retail for the steampipe and flanges, and it cost a grand total of ~$150 in material (bends, flanges and straight pipe) + my time to TIG it up. I'm making another one for his car shortly from 35NB with longer radius bends to see how that compares to the 40nb version.
This is the 40Nb version with the tight bends I dont like:
A bit of a pain to get the setup to fit between the motor and firewall and still clear the steering, shift cables, etc etc.
Info on making the merge collectors etc can be found in the fabrication section of honda-tech () for people who aren't scared to have a go themselves.
a pic of my old 4agte setup is here:
CHA54 can i get a picture of your collector?, the difference between the 6BOOST manifolds and the rest is the merge collector as you can see the merge collector is precision cut the hard part is making up a jig where all line up and come into that singular high point.
I have seen a plenty of merge collector style manifolds and they are real pieces of shit, where the runners go into the collector, and the person would use weld to build it up, they would then dyegrind it so it would be similar to a machine cut pipe.
Is that your manifold the 40NB version? if so it looks pretty good, but i would still like to see the merge collector
yes, that's the first ever turbo manifold I made, and it uses a 15deg merge collector cut with a makita cutoff saw
Took ages to clean the edges up with a file so the aligned perfectly, if you cut it with a bandsaw it's a lot cleaner, I have quite a few photo's of jigs you can make to cut perfect 4 runner collectors everytime.
I can't get my camera to take a good enough photo showing the metal point in the middle where they meet, but I didn't have to weld down in there or do any grinding to get the nice point.
If making collectors is too hard for you, you can also buy them from many places online like BMCrace, burns stainless, etc etc. either plain or pre-welded.
Here's some photo's from the construction of that manifold showing the points that join up in the center of the collector, it's not welded from the inside, I dont have a lava nozzel. I used a gas-lens to weld down between the runners into the middle of the collector, the gas lens allows you to get enough stick-out to get right down in the middle. I'm only a novice welder but I think this one turned out ok, there was decent penetration in the welds
DIY collector with a chop saw guide is here:
I'll post some pics of bandsaw collector jigs if anyone wants them. I'm getting a bandsaw soon so making things like collectors will be much easier.
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