changed this to a diff info page, so post what you know for sure and prevent answering the same questions all the time.
to prevent people asking same questions all the time. if you know more stuff add it up. definate stuff too, i know some celica diffs will fit but there are differences that i don't know of for sure so i haven't put them in.
S Series = ADM = no LSD available
T Series = JDM or T18 + others = plenty of LSD's available (KAAZ, Cusco, TRD etc)
S Series 8 bolts carrier to axle housing
T Series 10 bolts carrier to axle housing
S series = ADM AE86
T series = JDM AE86, T18
when fitting a T series diff you need a shorter rear tail shaft either out of a JDM 86 or a T18. the rear shaft for a t series is 20mm shorter than that of an s series
[attachment=7775:attachment]
ADM AE86 760mm, T18 740mm
Ke70's have a borgwarner diff different to S and T series. both S and T series will bolt in but an s or t series tailshaft must be used.
tailshaft and diff combo's (assuming you have fitted 4AC or 4AGE and using T50 box)
AE86 + T series = ADM or JDM front half + T18 or JDM rear half
KE70 + S series = ADM 86 or JDM 86 front half + ADM 86 rear half
KE70 + T series = same as AE86 with T series
AE71 + S series = same as KE70 with S series
AE71 + T sereis = same as AE86 with T series
found this while looking for info on my diff. TRD based and shows you how to rebuild a LSD if you are game.
changed this to a diff info page, so post what you know for sure and prevent answering the same questions all the time.
You got got to add that when fitting a T series you need to get the proportioning valve.
however what I and a few others have done is taken the spring out of the standard ADM valve.
As shown here:
However this conversion is only needed when changing from drum to disc brakes.
JDM T-series have 'Disc' Brakes
T-18 T-series have 'Drum' Brakes
Feel free to expand on this. (or correct me if im worng )
regarding the "diff rebuild" link, T3 sell a diff rebuild/shim kit for stock LSD's, if your unlucky enough to have one.
link to old thread
ill add my bit on lockers.
s series - dont bother
t series - most people just take the carrier out with the center and weld the 4 spider cogs to each other and onto the center housing. Mine was donr by pros who removed 2 spider gears and welded up the remaining ones onto the center.
Borgie - very simular to a t series only easier as u just take the backing plate off.
RA40, Jap RT132, RA60 axles all fit T18 housing and centre, but need 10mm ground off the splined end. TA22 axles use a smaller wheel bearing and are too short to use also.
T18 T-series swaybar mounts (those that have them) are different from AE86 S-series swaybar mounts, but they can be easily modified to suit the AE86 swaybar bush and clamp.
T18 handbrake cables are about 10mm too long for the AE86. Either use AE86 cables, or put a 10mm spacer under the adjuster nut on your handbrake lever.
Be careful undoing the filler/drain plugs on these diffs, they are very easy to round off. Always use a socket/ring spanner. Also always check you can get the filler out before cracking the drain.
You can lock an S series fairly easily. Not as easy as a T series, but still works fine. There are just 4 small windows into the diff centre, you need to get plenty of weld in here and fuse the spider gears to each other and the casing.
Useless bit of info too: S series axle splines and T series axle splines (the smaller, zenki?? ones) are the same. In fact I think the only difference between the axles is the wheel bearings.
Hen
zenki