diffsss whats stronger then a t series that i can get for hachi

[biggo]

if u want an r31 diff in ur car u need to shorten 1 axle and one side of the housing. Or grab 2 left axles (i think) and shorten 1 side of the housing. THEN u have to make the mounts n shit...still works out to be over 1g apparently

[MAT713]

im going an e series diff in my race car...

from what i can find out, its pretty strong, plenty of ratios, and 25mm extra track each side.

i will be aiming for something just over 400rwhp in myn and ive been told it can handle it

[terryo]

please tell me where you plan to get a LSD for an E series.

[Big T]

I'm also curious to know what LSD centre you plan to use? Unless you plan on welding it. Im thinking the E-series wouldn't be able to handle 300rwkws repeatedly. It's only a 7.1" diff. I'd doubt whether an F-series would be able to handle that load reliably under abusive driving

You also don't need to have an extra 25mm track each side. That'll depend on the doner car you get the diff from. There are plenty of cars that have 1410 or 1415mm E-series diffs.

Eddie.

[reg450]

sounds like the t series is gonna be the win well i hope it last because it gonna get a thrashen of its life ahahahhaha thanxs guys


troy

[biggo]

oh 1 thing i forgot to mention,

R31's have a cone an cup lsd which can suck big black wang

[psychofox]

A cheap bet would be grab a F-series from a YR22 Tarago, it's 1445mm wide (so you get 35mm extra track in the rear), has 4.3:1 ratio and get an LSD centre from a MA61, or even a truetrack F-series. You'll need to move all the mounts from a S-series over to the new diff but that shouldn't cost too much. If you don't care about the brakes - Drums are fine for Dorifto anyway - this is probably going to be your cheapest option for an upgrade that will take your planned power output.