See on this conversion how they have run the water pipes down the side of the headers?? Big no no. And with the kit that ant makes, saves you all this hassel.
Personally I would go black top 20V. Much more likely to hang together at high RPM (smaller--meaning lighter internals). Built much more like a honda motor. 16V will be ok as long as you dont rev it to much, and you know what they say, engine wear is accellerated at the square of RPM. Dizzy and water plumbing cause little hassels these days especially when you can just ring ant and say that you want these bits (DLi converter and water re-routerSaves you a heap of time and mucking around. Best bang for buck, and you can just pick up another long motor cheap enough anyway.
See on this conversion how they have run the water pipes down the side of the headers?? Big no no. And with the kit that ant makes, saves you all this hassel.
emd-ke70. sorry dude dont mean to be a dick and sorry if i put it the wrong way, but i guess your opening wasnt too crash hot with what you wanted to archive.
im gonna go 20v. just casue of what mr 3k said. tho matty does have a good point of building a motor from bottom end up. thats if you got the experince to back you up. however consider this, if you are gonna get a workshop to do it, its gonna cost alot. and the 20v is $$$ for hp.
question what sort of driving are you intend on doing drfting or autocross?
Originally Posted by cicca_294
my dads mate is getting one, in white, aus delivered.
his mate has an imported on in white,
and their mate has a blood red one with a 25k new exhaust system...
i wish i had enough money for a freaking corolla
Thanks for the replies everyone!
Red sprinter - Cheers for clearing that up
I am planning on re building it before the engine goes in the car, i'll have about $3500 for the conversion, with aftermarket ECU just so i can do more myself and do away with a lot of the spaghetti wiring.
My friend has a whole workshop (his dads haha) which i think ill be able to use, but only when i really want to, ill do most of the re building at home.
I do intend to drift the car, but not on a proffesional level, just to take the thing to practice days etc at lala and pt G.
And i wanted the 7 rib bottom end because down the track i may decide to turbo it, im not 100% sure yet, but i'd like to have the option there.
Also im not too sure on the 20V option, from what ive seen there isnt as much aftermarket support for them as there is for the 16V engines, and i'd like to keep the costs down in some places. Also im probably going coil packs so the dizzy will be goin anyway.
Thanks a lot for the comments.
You get the 7rib block with the 20V, plus its newer and then you get a 20V head as well. Cams, pistons rods they are all there if you look. I have done a bit of work looking into the 20V turbo thing...and you can get flat top 20V (need one more cut into the top of the piston to keep the non-interference happening) turbo pistons are not a problem..if you want to go turbo you will need to rebuild the motor again any way, so that means two rebuilds vs. one rebuild if you go the 20V option (ie its a fresher motor).
...............umm yeah.... i knew that!
must of had a massive brain fart when i wrote that...
thanks anyway mattyshop
mmm brain fart....
yeh if you don't wanna rebuild straight away.. go for a 20v.. best bang for buck.. B/T that is.. cos you can run open air quads on a B/T factory ecu.. ohhh that noise...
that is noice!!!! sounds so HOTTTTTTTTTT
Nah i'd prefer a rebuild, just so i can suss out the engine.
I'd like to know IN PERSON what im working with.
Just another Q are the small port and 20V blacktop very similar in electronics (cept for tvis). Im just worried about tackling it, it looks much newer and more confusing haha.
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