new seat looks nice and supportive!!!
I'll take the seat off your hands when you're ready![]()
new seat looks nice and supportive!!!
That twin caliper setup is insane.. Personally never seen it before. Anyone know where there is a full writeup on it?
Pretty simple really, one caliper is set up with normal brakes and cable handbrake, the other is a hydraulic handbrake, so a hydraulic system (independant to the brake system) with the cable handbrake just forgotten about (not used.).
When SamQ said ballast he was cheekily reffering to your strut brace as being nothing more than extra weight
JGTC cars have to meet a certain weight, so they often go below that weight, so that they can move the extra weight (ballast) around the car to optimise handling. Ie, weight distribution.
yeah well it will be up for sale when im finished with it so yeah whoever got the cash can take it haha, or i could start hoarding haha
very supportive, although i havent driven with it yet i have sat in it and tried to move around and compared to my passenger seat it has 100x less movement
i see, i dont see why its just dead weight, i see it as a brace thats designed to do its job and rigid up th body a bit, seems to do its job just by grabbing onto it, its solid as
intake uning: yes the length from the intake valve to the opening in the airbox/plenum has a significant effect on the power level and delivery, over 30% difference in power from what I have seen in dyno charts. I can show you the formular to work it out if you like. From memory the primary harmonic resonance in the intake happens at 6500 in a stock 20v after vvt is turned off. Shortening those trumpets will raise that, the T3 ones may lift your primary resonace to 8000rpm which is not a practical setting for your engine setup. In true American style they don't tell you that. When I was going for my blacktop/silvertop hybrid engine I was going to tune it to have a primary resonance with vvt at the same resv as what the car cruised on on the freeway. I think this corresponded to a 6200 rpm resonance with VVT off. But seeing I am ditching the 20v at this stage I will sadly lose any form of variable cam timing and therefore just have a single tuned point in my intake. So I will probably tune my intake for a primary intake resonance at 6500 and a primary resonance in the exhaust at maybe 7000.
rear brace: Bustin was ahead of me on an answer on this one, that brace is just dead weight unless you like a shiny ornament in the back of your car. Ok I really didn't want to go out of my way to show how something is completely no good because I don't want to be putting any down. However because it genuinely sounds like you want to know I will explain.
There are actually quite a few reasons why it just cant work:
- In a normal sprinter there are very little side loads in the rear shocker towers and very little bending movement in that part anyway.
- The movement there is is higher up and the section your brace is bolted to is just above a floor-panel for which there is a very thick subframe brace underneath.
Even if that section would move it doesn't really matter here's why:
- the two things on each side using that as a support is the spring and the shocker top. Neither one of these positively locate the suspension geometry. This is the job of the 5 links (or 4 for me), in regard to locating the tops of the springs and shocks the can move as much as they like providing that that isn't a significant change to their relative length which cant happen on any car that I can see.
- the movement in most ends of cars is only in mm unless something is wrong. That brace is bolted to sheet metal, I think it would easly be able to flex a few mm with the give in the metal before it would provide any meaningful opposing force.
- even if it was on a proper anchor point that brace by the looks of it is just a piece of aluminium pipe, again I think it would have much more give in it than what you might think. I will say though I am bias n this area and I think most of the braces coming out of Japan are cheap crap.
All that said your brace if it was a different design would do something if you had a Macpherson strut rear suspension which no sprinter does. Ontop of that there is a rear brace for a sprinter that does actually work. It bolts between the rear seat latch mounts, they can double up as a good harness mount too.
One last thing on the topic it may be my personal opinion but I think aluminium is a poor brace material and is used out of economic reasons, for me its cro-mo or nothing.
ignition lads: Nissan Terrano? How compatable are they to a 20v? this is a new one to me. As for your cousin hehehe what a sneak.
also I just said what i said before about being negative because I dont want to come across as someone who knows everything, thinks that everyone else is worse off or knows nothing worth knowing, because none is of this true.
As for my tech page, is that my cooling guide? I really dont get much feedback on that one so I dont know if people use it or not.
30kw club
so the tuned length just kind of determines where the paek power will be in a way, if so id like that around 8500 and as for the brace, im not really too worried, i will be getting a rear brace made to go between rear seat latch mounts and have a harness mount on it
and yeah rear your cooling guide, its pretty good though i didnt really understand y u made a custom water pump etc, the external thermostat is a much easier idea although it may look a little bit rough, its effective and it works
not directly where the peak power is but it can have that effect. The easiest way to imagine it is it shifts the whole power curve around.
With my cooling guide yeah I ground the blades of the pump a bit but I know that the external thermostat is the easier option. I was meant to rewrite the article to allow for that also but I never got around to it.
30kw club
i see, thats fair enough, i wont be running a thermostat at all for a while as im fukt for cash so just a thermo switc for now hooked to a thermo fan, im drunk so excuse the english