IMO Penrite HPR10
or Valvoline 5W/30
But if its done over 250,000 then probably 20W/50 or 15W/40
hey people just wanna find out whats the best oil for a 4age???
example: what brand, what wieght oil
IMO Penrite HPR10
or Valvoline 5W/30
But if its done over 250,000 then probably 20W/50 or 15W/40
I stick by Penrite HPR 15 semi synth..... works extremely well in my busted ass JDM 16v
I get my oil free at work lol we use 3 types
Castrol FMX 15w-40 (not sure)
Castrol Magnatec 5w-40 (full synth)
Castrol Edge Sport 10w-60 (full synth)
I've tried them all and i find Edge Sport to be my favourite, Magnatec is also good
Castrol Magnatec
i was using this for many yrs, but now Im using Nulon 10w30.
With a fresh oil and filter change and 1000kms of driving in 3 days, the oil hasnt changed colour yet.
But then again my motor is pretty healthy.
Insert witty comment here....
yee i have jus started using nulon 15w-40
Castrol magnetec is 10-40w when it originally came out it was 15-50w then they changed it years ago.
my rebuilt 4AGE i used ELF racing 20w50.. all the others seemed too thin.. considering all 4AGE's (cept for 20v's) are designed to run on 20w50 mineral.. made sense to me..
a mate of mine was running 5w40 in his B16A honda.. and was wondering why he had valvetrain noise... silly silly.. they were designed to run on 20w50!!
anyone with a decent built turbo motor.. eg.. forgies, rods, turbo, racebearings, cams etc etc... should not be running thin oils.. the clearences are too big when building something like this.. and forged pistons are not eliptical, so there would be a bit of piston slap kinda noise (have a look at the Gen III V8 problems!) so thicker oils are a must.. a mates 300+ whp 3SGTE uses something along the lines of HPR 40.. which is 25w70... and may even be going to a HPR 50 - 40w70..
the temperature of the oil in highly modified turbo engine is something you should really keep an eye one.. and if you see oil pressure that your not satisfied with.. time to step up in the viscosity.. running a thicker oil isn't a bad thing.. all engines are different..
don't for get 4AGE's as much as some people think the are a 'special' engine, as good as they are, most of the ones that we are all running around in have not been rebuilt.. came out of a god only knows jap half cut, who knows what kinda oil they were using.. high KM's and with an engine that was designed to run on 20w oil.. after 250 thousand km's is now running on a 5w oil! (exaggeration).... the oil specs back in the 80's early 90's is pretty much that of a base dunga oil like castrol GTX.. or some cheap 'gulf weston' oil.. i have seen bottles of this stuff go for $8!! brand new at autobarn!!
really it doesn't matter what type/brand of oil you run.. as long as it is the correct weight, and you change it frequently.. like befor/after race days, or drift events, and as often as you like, there is no damage to be done by keeping clean oil in your engine!! do what i did.. last year boxing day sales at auto barn.. 20% off everything.. bought me a dozen z386's and about 6 bottles of oil (i only had 2 mates with me!) that lasted the levin (and my old mans ae92) till a few months ago.. i had to by a few more bottles of oil.. but if you were to crack open a cam cover on that 4AGE i built you could eat off it.. clean as a whislte..
Thinking of switching to a lighter oil in the ST 20v, perhaps a high performance 15w 50 or something. hopefully it holds better at higher rev range. If anyone has any suggestions, post it up.
Matty, forgive my ignorance, but do you think I should run a 20w50 in the 5age i'm getting rebuilt atm? it'll have good bearings, etc in it?
I was jsut going to run the 10w40 magnatec
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