shims are the little 10c pieces that sit on the buckets.. the cam lobe runs along the shim, which sits on the bucket, the bucket sits in the head ontop of the valve.. it sounds complex but reallt it isn't it is the most basic and IMO one of if not the best way to run a valvetrain minimal loss, simplicity, can sustain high revs all day long..
the charger CAN be fitted to a 4AGE.. and if you use all the GZE computer and injectors etc etc.. you can bolt it all in (7 rib block only) but i highly suggest using the 4AGE crank pully Vs the GZE crank pully..
the 4AGE crank pully is slightly smaller than the GZE.. so in effect it would run less boost (turning the sc slower) but with the already high compression in the motor, should actually outperform most 4AGZE's if dont right.. you will need to make sure you kick back the timing.. although the ecu does support a knock sensor.. best to retard the base timing anyway..
my smallport in my old 86 made 110whp.. so conservitave figure of say 155-160hp @ engine.. which is about 25-30hp more than stock.. and all i did was rebuild top to bottom, port work, deck the head 20 thou, add quads and adaptronic.. car ran consistant low-mid 15 sec passes.. which proves it power output (a normal 4AGE conversion (pod filter/exhaust etc) should see around the 16's high 15 if u get launching down..
cams are quite easy to change if u know what your doing.. it is a simple case of taking off the covers, taking out the cams.. replacing with new cams.. after all the bolts are up to spec, check all clearences change the shims (different thickness shims) to bring up to spec.. in .25mm out .35mm.. pretty universal.. alomst everything uses that spec..
sweet i thought that shims were washers and i was like hey why is he telling me to chuck washers in the top of my motor?!?!?
So what holds the shim in place is it part of the bucket or held there by gravity or what?
I'm so going to go to an engine rebuilders and harass them into giving a look at this stuff!!!!!!!
Cheers
Cerby
i want to get about 120rwkw from a small port running quads and aftermarket ecu
is this a reasonable figure to get out of it?
i like medium speed drift!
what are good cam degrees to get i was thinking 272 or 288 deg
is this too much
or stick to somthing bit less lumpy ie 256 deg
JAPANESE DOMESTIC MARKET AS F*CK!!! hmmm, when you prenounce it properly, it sounds gayhow bout that.
120rwkw is not going to be easy... 100rwkw would involve a good cam selection and complete rebuild with high comp pistons etc.. etc.. and it would be quite 'lumpy' 2 stroke power band ish..
keep in mind 120rwkw is 160rwhp... that is alot for an NA 1587cc engine.. it will be revving it's wee wee off..
a 3SGE would make 120rwkw almost in standard form.. people thinking of high out put NA should start looking at 3SGE NA conversions.. they are very good motors NA or turbo.. bolt W55 etc on the the back of it and away you go..
the cost to convert a 3SGE RWD, would prolly work out the same as a high output 4AGE, and i know which one would last longer and be much much more driveable..
Cerby.. i'll post up some pics when i get a chance of my build up and show you bits and names etc..
sweeet thanks man
You really need to read Bill Sherwoods page, because he talks about the 4A-GE specificaly, different power outputs you can expect from different setups. Other pages will give general engine info. Also read the articles at the Toysport page. Rather than reading AutoSalon, look at engine setups old rally cars have and Group A touring cars.
You need to read some engine manuals to get a feel for the basics. Pull the cam covers off your own 4A-GE for a start, just to have a look. It's not that hard.
N/A tuning, stage one:
Imagine back 10 years ago. Some boy racer has got a newish Corolla Levin/ trueno/ GT or whatever, and he lives in Japan or Jamaca or Barbados or someplace (where you could buy these cars and there was a aftermarket). It's a good car, 4A-GE, power mirrors, leather gearknob etc. Step one is a bigger exhaust and different air filter. Mostly this will just sound louder, and only give you 5% power at the most (but opens it up for later).
Stage two:
The next stage gets more serious, different cams! For a N/A motor, its all about the cams. Shopping list is 2 cams of your choice, adjustable cam gears. Plus you may need to swap some shims. Whoever installs this needs a degree wheel, dial gauge, some shims, and tools etc. You also need to richen up the fuel. Back 10 or 15 years ago in Japan, they would have sold you a package kit specificaly for your car. You would have got a certain set of cams with a exchange computer. They either chipped the factory computer or gave you a piggy back computer, or some sort of device that roughly gave you more fuel to suit the cams. You can run mild cams on the stock computer, or some dodgy trick like a rising rate fuel pressure regulator.
But these days in a different era, in a different country, we have afordable programable computers. The only downside is you sort of have to program it yourself, and wire up the computer. Some people will sell a loom or computer that plugs into AE92 GT for example... saves alot of work. For cheap second hand computers look at Wold3D V3, or MicroTech MT8.
Stock cams are often around 240 degrees, full race cams are often 305 degrees. You may want about 290 degrees, standard lift.
Stage three:
Rebuild the motor with higher comp pistons, port the head, regrind valves and seats a special way, ballance everything. Full race cams ~300 degrees. High lift cams, different valve springs, shim under bucket etc. This is the sort of stuff I like. It is at this stage that you would consider quad throttle if your race regulations allow. I think from memory the quads are going to make more difference with cams over about 275 degrees.
Turbo and supercharger are totaly different setups. Lucky for us they are avaliable now for cheap, but do you really know enough about engines to do all this first time? Most projects are off the road for a year. Better to keep car on the road/track, and learn to drive. Go fully sick turbo when you have a fully sick job I recon!
So to answer your question, stock 16 valve with 20v quads? Yes it would be nice, yes you need different computer. But don't expect much more power. Power is in the CAMS!!!! Quads only let it breath better, and only make a difference if the cams and high rpm demand that much air.
i have done the NA 16v in a fwd ae92sx
heres the link
what great about my setup is the response and low down torque, thats how it is tuned, and i'm only getting 70ish fwkw. but i will be retuning to get more topend out of it. To make power out of it na it comes down to the tuning. you cant bolt on and expect power like a turbo setup, which means alot of dyno time.
A 20v airbox wont fit if your alt is at the back of the motor, i have tried. if going na i would suggest 288deg cams with the quads anything lower and use the stock 100kw intake. also in a fwd itb setup intake temps are insane you will need a very good cai setup.
you sure do like writing up these little scenarios jonny!! your right i really don't know enough to build myself a hot NA motor hence why i'm going to work out what i want then get one of my mates to do it!!!
And you should know that i'm more about being faster by driving better not just by making the car more powerful! just exploring some options and seeing what is around and what i can do with different cars!
Anyways this has given me a fair bit to think about and i have a bit of a plan formulating at the moment. Just gotta look at some prices and other factors see what comes out the best!
Thanks for the help every body!!
Cheers
Cerby
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