Lock spacers (as shown below) are a small spacer that goes onto the end of the steering rack shaft on either end. It allows the steering arms to move further into the steering rack to allow for more lock. I have been told it gives about 7 degree more angle with the spacers I used and it reduced my turning circle by about half a meter. It is a very cheap upgrade at $25 to $30 or easly machined if the option is there. This will push your tow right in so a wheel alignment is really needed a short time after having this done. Unless there is some damage or a different set up is used then there should be enough factory adjustment in the steering arms to allow for it. It isnt necessary normally to remove the steering arms or rods to install these.
Here is how I installed mine:
Looking under my sprinter this is how it is standard, It has the rubber steering boot on either end of the steering rack with a clamp on either side.
- Undo the first clamp (1) with a screwdriver, can be real hard to get to.
- Using some plies squeeze the second clamp (2) and slide it off
- Slide the rubber boot off as much as possible
This is what you end up with after the boot is slid down, the end clamp (1) can be left in that position, the boot needs to be slid off the end of the shaft (to the right for the drivers side), to do this it may be needed to remove the steering rod clamp (5) to fully slide the boot out of the way. Alternatively a second person could hold the boot to one side while the rack is being worked on.
With the boot moved to one side the rack end ball joins are revealed. To undo the rack end two spanners are needed. I found however the locking tab (2) was getting in the way of my spanner so I bashed it out of the way.
- If locking tab (2) is bend over the flat secttions of the rack end then bend it away using a screwdriver and a hammer as done so in the picture. When taking the rack end off care must be taken to not twist the steering rack in any way, putting force on this may well damage the steering rack.
- Place a 24mm spanner on the steering rack flat section (1)
- Place a 30mm spanner onto the rack end ball joint (3)
- While holding the 24mm spanner still, turn to undo the 30mm spanner
- Completely remove the ball end and throw away the locking tab (2)
Some locking compond suck as Loctite is recomended for the rack end because the ball joints previously has a locking tab as a saftey but this can no longer be used.
- Place the lock spacer onto the thread that is on the end of the steering shaft
- Use some locking compond onto thread
- Screw ball joint back onto steering rack
- Tighten and re-assemble in reverse order as earlier and repeat process for other side.
- Get a wheel alignment
30kw club
nice write up
you've just reminded me i have a pir of these spacers AJPS accidently sent me (but let me keep = CHAMPION) i can use them on the 70, combined with an 86 rack
how much thread still goes in to the rack itself? obviously still enough just curious as to how much roughly. that is my only doubt with spacers of this type.
about 12mm by memory, just enough to use the maximum thread strength
30kw club
Thanks Sam
will definately use them on the 70.
nice write up, you saved me the effort
enjoy!
nice work, been looking to get a set of these myself in the near future...
ohhh i see how it works, thats cool as!!!
i did think briefly about something like this when i was changing rack ends
anyone know how big you can make the spaces and still get a reasonable amount of thread on the rack ends?
also, cheers for the write up, done really nice and easy to understand
In faith there is enough light for those who want to believe and enough shadows to blind those who don't.
- Blaise Pascal
ke70dave, about 6mm I think, I need to recheck some time.
30kw club
just an idea for you dave, see if you can get hold of locking tabs for your stock and sell them with the spacers you already sell...
good/bad idea? im sure people will pay the extra little bit for new ones
looking into it
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