changing clutch

[lachy2k3]

currently taking out bolts to the gearbox
after that do i need to d/c the clutchline and starter motor?

edit:
i just finish my clutch today.. but the problem is the clutch wont engage.. i cant get it into gear.. does this hafto do with bleeding it.. coz i done it already.. maybe i didnt do it properly..
also the fork moves in and out..
what could be the problem?

[meadan]

lol i did the same thing today, my first time too.
yep disconnect/drain the clutch. and yep take off the starter motor.
ive heard people have problems taking the top 2 gearbox bolts off, but i just used a ratchet and breaker bar with ease.
if its a 4ac you might wanna disconnect ur exhaust aswell to take the gearbox down...

[lachy2k3]

how long did u take buddy? i started at 6 ttill now..lol

[meadan]

lol
i started at like 12:30, and i stopped at 4
i only got like halfway through, but it was getting too cold and people came over
i just need to put the new clutch on and put everything back together. taking apart always takes like 3 times as long if ive never done it before.
did you leave the tailshaft in so oil doesnt go everywhere if you tilt the gearbox?

[mc68]

errrrrr why didnt u just unbolt the slave cylinder instead of draining the clutch, making need to bleed it again....

best thing to do is disconnect the battery if you are pulling the feed off the starter...you never know when it might earth out and cook everything...

[meadan]

i was gonna bleed it anyways when the new one was in, so i decided its easier.
im glad i did, the fluid that came out was pretty black, and had little black dots in it.

[Driftspec]

Couldnt be easier:

Pull the starter motor out (disconnecting both terminals from the battery, as well as any other wires that run from the starter motor/gearbox that will fall when the gearbox drops out ), and the slave from the gearbox out as well. You won't need to pull any hydraulic lines out.

There are two bolts that are behind the block that are a pain in the arse to get off, but once located its all good. An there probably won't be a need to drop the exhaust pipe, as long as the drive shaft has been pulled out of the back of the gearbox, it will make dropping the box a piece of cake.

We did 2 cars in about 6 hours or so, but we were at a shed with all the right tools and some previous mechanical knowledge, which helps too

Hope this helps!

[blue86]

dont forget to take the gear shift section out dude its easy, took me awhile the first time just keep an eye on what yr doing good luck .ive never had to bleed the clutch an ive done it 3 times before isnt it hydrolic it does it its self is this right

[RobertoX]

and remove the reverse light wires and spedo cable

[dirty_86]

-D/C neg of bat terminal
-remove starter motor ( leave all connections attached and jam it in sumwhere so its out of the way
-remove gearshifter inside
-remove tailshaft
-Drain gearbox oil (take out filler plug (top bolt) first then drain plug
-remove clutch slave clyinder
-remove speedo cable and reversing wiring
-remove all accesable bellhousing bolts ( leave 1 prefably on the side in just crack it and leave it there)
-remove gearbox crossmember bolts box will drop down at the rear making the 2 top bolts accessable from underneath the car get to them by using long 1/2 extenstion/s and crack with a breaker bar.. remove the 2 bolts have a jack and jack up gearbox till its as level as how u had it when crossmember was bolted in remove the bolt that you have left cracked
-now have a mate assist u when u pull the gearbox back that it doesn't fall