Project Q - Sams 86 (many tech Pics)

[dustyae86]

yeh i meant the extractor mounts... it's hard to explain here, simply i would put it as atomisation, i was having a pretty in depth discussion with my dad about it who has done all this flow bench stuff etc... it's pretty hard to explain without pictures and im pretty computer illiterate so yeh.. also 20v heads are pretty productive already so it is going to be very hard to get any gains without a flow bench, good example of this is old honda 750 motorbike heads, after porting slightly then a little bit more the power does go up, then after a little tiny bit more like a tap if you want to put it that way. power decreases, not sure also if your ports are all EXACT... i have pretty much gone off track here but anyhow

[Bustin_86]

Narr, interesting post. Thanks for clarifying.

I thought you meant that strut braces dont do anything lol...

Edit- Could you link to a page that explains it if you cant mate? You could well be right, i have no idea, i just know that Sam usually does his research before rushing into anything. I would be interested in learning about the drawbacks of porting.

[dustyae86]

no it wont have problems idling i doubt it will idle at all.... hey if this all goes together idles fine wiht no running problems then good on him ill eat my cake

[rthy]

ah now this is interesting, thanks for the info.

I did do my research and I was also told that I didnt need that brace, my next extractors will be braced at the flange though.

The 20V silvertop head in standard form is an ugly sight, the only thing going for it is the port angle other than that it has a big protrusion blocking the middle intake valve, shocking port seperators, and decent steps from machining. The blacktop head is out of sight when it comes to the ports but it still has some dags and restrictions. I copied two other blacktop race heads i have seen and also did mostly cleaning up instead of full on reshaping.

here's a pic I shamelessly stole off bill sherwoods site, silver first and the black second, the black has had some porting though.




and his webpage:



To make it exactly even I ground a part then did the same action to the other 3 ports, doing this over and over meant I had a direct comparasin. Ontop of this I also did comparasins with the casting marks in the ports. You see 20v heads have some peculiar marks in the ports that change in shape when ported, I just made sure they all had the same shape. I will consider getting it flow benched to see how it goes and just double check it's even.


As for the whole atomisation at idle thing, I am familiar with the suject but the way I see it 16v engines dont seem to have a problem or any other head that doesnt have this design, add to that the fact I like to have a relatively high idle anyway. But we will see, mot any time soon but yeah...

[rthy]

The other day I once again modified my rear brake calipers.

I previously when I installed them changed the mounting that holds the brake cable in place to make it come off at a better angle but this time I modified the actual arm. When I first installed the calipers I found that the handbrake would have to be pulled up heaps for only a small amount of actuation so I thought that I needed more of a mechanical diasadvantage on the brake calipers lever.

So heres what I did:






In original form




chopped and welded straight




Redrilled




shortened




after doing this it felt heaps better and my handbrake finally works!

[rthy]

In continuing my engine build-up I had previously port matched the manifold but that was without the thick manifold spacer in place that all 20V engines have. Because I enlarged the AE101 (silver) manifold to suit the AE111 (black) head the original spacer wasn’t wide enough and was protruding into the air path. So to do the best job I put the spacer on the head, bolted the manifold on tight and then ground off at the spacer with the same long carbide burr that did the ports with. I also ended taking a little bit more of a lip off the intake ports to reduce a step. Next in line was the matching of the throttles to the manifold and unusually the throttles had a smaller opening than the manifold. While I am sure it would have no effect on the air going in I didn’t want it to in any way interfere with the reversion wave coming back off the engine. So I used my die grinder once again and enlarged the back end of the throttles opening. To smooth it off again I used a small flapper wheel before using some sandpaper. After all this I now can look from the top of the throttle and see no steps all the way to the valve. I am really looking forward to seeing how this all fires up.

Here is how it looks:







inital dummy fit without spacer






throttles closed, notice sharpened throttle blades







and open






looking down the throttle inlet, notice the complete lack of steps now

[rthy]

just a quick pic of how my car looks right now as I am waiting on my insurance payout. It has a silver gaurd and my new 7kg Topstage bonnet.

[jdmcoupe]

whats quility like on topstage bonnets??

[rthy]

mine was exceptional, perfect fit. What I had to do though was the following:

- drill the hole for the bonnet latch
- put the holes in for the safety hooks at the back of the bonnet
- adjust my bonnet latch up a little higher.

I dont know if he normally does these so it may be different for other people. All the gaps were perfect and the fiberglass is seriously solid.

I highly recomend Fred and his work.

[jdmcoupe]

could you take a picture of it looking down at the vent?? from the other side if you get what i mean... wanna see what the vent looks like