first up its not a good idea to compare dyno readings unless they where done on the same dyno with the same weather with the same setup and within a limited period of time. I have a 101rwkw silvertop 20v but I dont talk about it much because I am sure I could get plus or minus 20kw depending on where I go and how they do it.
Now moving on; depending on the lift on the intake the vvt will work with 270 degree cams. The exhuast cam is irrelevant in the matter in regard to the VVT. So as I have theorised (and some others also) a good all round combo in cams for a 20v is a 270 degree intake and 280 exhuast. Now while I admit I have virually no experience in such things I would think a modded 16v compared to a modded 20v with those cams would end up well short in mid range power because the lack in VVT. While it wouldnt give you the bragging rights of a higher peak figure it would make a massive difference in how fast the car would end up being in real world use, especially so when combined with the interesting stock ratios that the T50 has.
With the ecu dont even consider using a stock one with any money spent on the engine. The stock 20v ecu's in my experience can be buggy, unpredictable and severly hold back the power a 20V makes. The way my 20v ran drasticly changed when going to a wolf ecu (dont use that one) and that was with a normal and then later a reco'd stocker
Do you have a budget and what do you have in mind for your car? What can you do yourself?
They are both very solid platforms but I personally think for a mild buildup the bang for buck leans towards the 20V even if they can be a pain in the ass to cater for. The blacktop 20V engines like to have they hyraulic tensioner changed with every timing belt and theres debate about the rod strength at extended revs for prolonged periods. This is easly fixed with spool rods which are somewhat cheap, reliable and lighter by a fair way than even the skinny blacktop rods let alone the chunky silvertop rods.
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